[LukeZ]

I think that what Deny means is that he cannot hear an audible cue that he can fire the cannon again.

A solution for him would be to match the sound length and the "loader" shouting "cannon loaded" or something else like "plug your ears" or "Deny you can now push the fire button" etc..

Aha! Yes I understand now. In fact that is a very good idea and yes it is certainly possible. I will add this feature soon and let you know when it is available. Thank you for the suggestion.

Hi Deny, just to let you know I have added a sound to notify the user that the cannon is ready. The sound name should be "reloaded.wav"

You will need to update the firmware on both your TCB and your sound card. You can do this easily through OP Config.

Then just place the "reloaded.wav" sound on your SD card and it will play when the Cannon Reload Time has expired after firing the cannon. This time is determined by your tank's weight class - you can use one of the standard Tamiya weight classes, or define a custom weight class. See the Battle tab in OP Config for weight class settings. The active weight class is then selected by using the dipswitches on your TCB.

[Deny]

Hi, Luke.
This is great news.
Will try to test.
Thanks for the quick feedback on the idea.

[LukeZ]

Jürgen recently created another sound set, this time for the Panzer III. It is posted to the GitHub page.

Thanks Jürgen!

[Deny]

Hi, Luke!
After the next update TCB V. 0.92.15 stopped playing on the sound module of the file reloaded. wav, all other files are working properly.
Sincerely, Denis

[jhamm]

Do you have enough ammunition on board?   

[Deny]

Full ammunition )))

[LukeZ]

Deny, nothing in the code has change with regards to the reload sound in the last three releases. Please check anything else that might be causing issues:

• What is the cannon reload time for your currently-selected weight class? If the reload time is very short, you might not hear the reload sound because the cannon fire sound will still be playing.
• Is the reload sound correctly named and present on your SD card? Test if the sound card can actually play it - put a jumper on RC input 1 on the sound card (connect signal to ground) then turn on the sound card. It will cycle through every sound on the SD card and play it if it can, you should hear your reload sound play otherwise there is an issue with the sound file.

[LukeZ]

Deny I just did a physical test with my TCB running 0.92.15 and the cannon reload sound works fine for me.

Light and Medium weight classes reload so quickly (1 and 5 seconds) that the sound is most likely going to be covered up by the cannon fire sound, if your cannon fire sound lasts 5 seconds which it easily could. For testing set the weight class to Heavy (dipswitch 1 and 2 to Off position). This gives a 9 second reload time.

[Deny]

Hi, Luke.
 the problem was in the dipswitch. when switching to different modes (easy, medium, hard) the tank remained the custom mode. should have been stronger to move the switches to the edge. Now it is ok.
Regards,  Denis

[jhamm]

The problem is in most cases outside the tank.... 

Merry Christmas @ all!

[Deny]

The problem is in most cases outside the tank.... 

Merry Christmas @ all!

straight to the point.

Merry Christmas @ all!

[LukeZ]

the problem was in the dipswitch. when switching to different modes (easy, medium, hard) the tank remained the custom mode. should have been stronger to move the switches to the edge. Now it is ok.

Glad to hear it! My favorite kinds of problems are the ones with easy solutions.

[LukeZ]

Just an update on the sound card hardware. After several more rounds of prototyping I now have working version with a 10 watt amplifier (Maxim 9768 chip) driven directly by battery voltage. This is compared to the prior version with a 2.6 watt amp running at 5 volts. Believe me when I say the volume on this new one is plenty loud unless your tank has a gas engine.

The only other changes to the design are the removal of the line-out header (I needed the extra space and people probably won't use it anyway), and the addition of reverse-polarity protection. Firmware and functionality are the same.

Some of the other suggestions I received such as moving the headers around or multi-channel audio were ultimately not incorporated into this version.

All the design files are posted to the Downloads page for anyone that wants to build one. Attempt at your own risk, and only if you know what you're doing. An inexperienced hobbyist trying to learn reflow soldering can blow through a lot of money before they get a usable result.

Obviously what we really need is for this to be produced. I have a few places in mind that I will approach now the hardware is basically finalized. I wouldn't hold your breath.

[rockchuck]

Hi Luke
thanks for the final release of the sound board.
I have concerns about my ability to do re-flow soldering for the board and I was wondering if you think it would be possible to use a soldering iron to do the job as there are a lot of  large items that would be ok for a soldering iron. I have many years experience  soldering as I'm a Comms Tech.
What I was thinking, I would leave some components off the board that I wouldn't use i.e the RF ch connectors and I was thinking of leaving the 10 watt off the board and use flying leads to connect to a ready made 10watt amp board like the  PAM 8610 class D unit you can buy on Ebay for less than $5. 
So the the number of SMD components to solder is only the power supply and a few resistors for the leds.

thanks again
rockchuck

[LukeZ]

Hi Rock, I have no doubt you can hand-solder the resistors and other passive components. But even if you leave off the amp the SD card holder still has to be reflowed, it can't be done by hand.

The real challenge with making this work will not be soldering, but comprehending the circuit design sufficiently that you can competently modify it to interface with other amplifiers. If you understand the schematic then frankly you can probably dispense with the sound board entirely and just use jumper wires directly to a Teensy (which has its own voltage regulator already). Then use something like an SD breakout board.

However I don't want to spend a lot of time troubleshooting that kind of setup for others, so I recommend you only try it if you know what you're doing, like to experiment and tinker, and don't mind blowing money.