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Messages - LukeZ
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676
« on: July 03, 2018, 06:08:39 PM »
Johnny, that's a stunning model, and a very nice shop too by the way! I do have an idea of how much time it takes to complete a model to that high of a standard, which is why I have never understood how anyone could build one for the purpose of a client - for me, no reasonable amount of money they could offer would be worth the time and effort! You must be both very efficient and proficient - but fast or slow, you are certainly a master detail-er. As you are also clearly well versed in 3D printing, perhaps one thing we can talk about later is designing a small bracket to mount a 40mm fan to the Scout board. I won't get off-topic in this thread but when you get to that point on your next model be prepared for me to ask you about it! 
677
« on: July 03, 2018, 01:03:19 PM »
Sergey, the RC passthrough function will only accept "analog" aux channel inputs, yours must all be defined as "switches" since none show in your list of Trigger Sources.
Note that even if a channel on your radio is a switch, you are free to call it "analog" in OP Config. Then you can assign it to an RC Passthrough, and use it to control a servo exactly as you describe.
The switch/analog distinction is useful primarily for OP Config to display to you the appropriate internal functions that such triggers can control. But when you are just going to "pass-through" the signal, then it doesn't matter. Set your aux channel to analog so it can be passed-through, but on your transmitter it can be a switch or anything else.
Johnny, I don't know about an "AND" function... If you mean that you would like a single trigger source to control multiple functions, that is already possible.
678
« on: July 02, 2018, 04:03:53 PM »
I'm glad that's all it was, and nothing got fried!
Out of curiosity I wonder if your Scout assembling experiments ever came to fruition? It would be interesting to see if the Scout is able to compensate for the turning issue using the special setting that it has. It works for me but to my knowledge no one else has tested it on a comparable model with similar issues.
679
« on: June 30, 2018, 05:03:02 AM »
I then soldered the inputs together on a Dean's connector that connected to the switch in the normal fashion (left switch pole to black/negative, center pole to ESCs & TCB, and right pole to Battery). Can you draw a diagram of how you have the switch wired? This verbal description actually does not sound like the normal fashion, but perhaps I am not visualizing it correctly. Maybe take a picture of your arrangement. If you are melting contacts then you are most likely experiencing a direct short somewhere. My best guess is that your ESCs are fine, but you have accidentally mis-wired your switch harness somehow. Then I connected the battery directly to the ESC combination, and they both lit the LEDs, made the appropriate noises (they make a few tones upon energizing) and sat there waiting for instructions from the TCB. It seems highly unlikely the charge current is the issue. If it were, when you connected the pair directly to the battery as described here, you would probably see/experience one heck of a spark when you plugged in the Dean's connector to the battery.
680
« on: June 29, 2018, 08:12:39 PM »
Hi XRAD, 1)
Had some issues 'connecting' to the TCB with the recommended FTDI VCP driver and set-up. I am able to snoop and update firmware no issue. however, opconfig failing to 'connect.' So I tried snooping several times and then connecting, and connecting is still hit or miss but better after a snoop. As you are probably aware several users have reported a similar problem, though I have not been able to replicate it on my end, and it doesn't affect all users. There is a note about this in the Troubleshooting guide. The solution as you have found is to first open a Snoop connection, and only after click the Connect button. This should always work, but it is important after you open Snoop to wait a few seconds for the TCB to finish spitting out whatever it is going to spit out (either "waiting for radio" or if the radio is found it will dump a bunch of settings). After that is done then click Connect. You also mentioned in another thread that your TCB came with a faulty dipswitch #5. This switch is directly related to the TCB's ability to connect to your computer. So I don't know in what way you determined it was broken or what you might have done to fix it, but if it is at all intermittent or loose or whatever, that is also going to cause you lots of problems. I tried updating the firmware(newest version, easily loads 100% each time), and then connecting, and this usually works. But I don't want to have to update firmware each time. I agree, this is a lot of extra work and indeed there are times when you specifically do not want to be updating firmware repeatedly over and over (some updates will overwrite prior settings) so I don't recommend this approach. Just use the Snoop first, then Connect trick. In snoop mode, i can see all switch functions (gun fire, engine on, MG, smoker) working fine. I can see also forward throttle but not reverse left,right, or turret turn -gun elevation. You definitely should see both forward and reverse messages, so if reverse isn't showing somethings is wrong with your radio setup. You can also use the red and green LEDs on the TCB to confirm forward and reverse movement, see the LED key here. Left and right turns, as well as turret movements are not presently listed by Snoop so that is normal. 2)
Second issue is that I have uploaded my config settings (after setting stick centers and limits on channel 1,2,3,4) but the driving stick functions are a bit wonky. Turret and gun elevation work fine. but with driving, stick straight back is not reverse, but rather back and slightly left. forward is up and slightly right. Weak right turn, strong left turn. I changed up motors/esc's and tried 're-centering/limits' on drive channels, no change. maybe the radiolink Rx puts out a bit different sbus sequence for these channels than expected. Using hobbywing 40amp esc's(with 5v red wire removed). I don't know what the issue is here, but it is not SBus. SBus is a standard and by definition it is implemented the same by all, but even if there are variations that is what saving the stick centers and end-points is for, it would adjust for those. If that process has been performed correctly then the TCB truly does know the center and end-points of your channels. The fact that you weren't seeing reverse in your earlier comment makes me wonder if that process completed successfully. What you want to make certain of is that you have no mixing, dual rates or other modifications defined for those channels in your Transmitter. The other thing to check is whether you have excessive mechanical resistance in one of your tracks, possibly in the left track since it wants to turn left. If you have a servo Y-cable, eliminate the TCB for a moment and hook up both your ESCs to the forward/reverse channel directly on your RC receiver. You won't be able to turn, but you should be able to test driving forwards and backwards. Since both ESCs are receiving the exact same signal, if your tank keeps turning left that would indicate you have something hanging up your left track. You can also try swapping the left and right ESCs to see if that makes a difference (it should not). If you don't find any problem there go back and re-visit your Transmitter settings and re-do Radio Setup to make sure everything really has been saved correctly. While streaming the radio, watch the values for the throttle and turn stick channels. Do they fluctuate a lot even when the sticks are still? If so you may want to increase the Deadband to a value higher than the highest static discrepancy. Also try disabling Neutral Turns temporarily (on the Driving Tab) and see if that makes any difference.
681
« on: June 28, 2018, 01:32:04 PM »
I'm assuming dipswitch 5 must be "broken" in the on-position? Otherwise it would be difficult to communicate over USB.
It sounds like you have it worked out, but if you have issues let us know, there are workarounds. You can replace the entire switch as Shad says but there are other things you can do even more simple than that if necessary.
682
« on: June 27, 2018, 05:01:01 PM »
Hi Rad, you certainly do have a lot of interesting projects on your YouTube, you must stay busy. The Elephant is looking good and I'm glad you like the TCB so far. Thanks for mentioning your radio setup, I don't think the R12DS receiver was available when I first wrote the Wiki so now I've been able to update it. Looks like RadioLink now has telemetry options even, seems like a good radio.
Keep us posted.
683
« on: June 05, 2018, 12:55:35 PM »
Good job Dean. Not many people have designed and completed an entire 3D printed model, so you have joined a small club indeed. No one can say you chose an easy model to start with either!
684
« on: June 02, 2018, 02:31:48 PM »
Glad to hear it.
685
« on: June 02, 2018, 01:21:41 PM »
So my question after all this is: Does the board sound shut down if the current is exceeded on the A & B (turrent/elevation) motor outputs?? And would it pulse the motor if exceeded as above?? Something seems haunted about this Stug. Can the board shut down if you exceed current limits on the onboard motor drivers? Yes, but indirectly. The onboard motor drivers are fed directly from your battery, they do not share the same voltage as the TCB processor which is running at 5 volts. However, if you draw too much current from your main battery its voltage will drop, and since the main battery also feeds the TCB processor, if the voltage dropped enough that could indirectly cause a brownout. However, it is not clear to me that you have actually experienced a reboot - your sound card played the engine shut-down sound but that is not necessarily the same as the board rebooting. You should be able to tell if an actual reboot happened by watching the red/green LEDs on the TCB closely, or experimenting with this stuff while Snooping. I agree that a reboot could indicate an over-current condition but if you are not rebooting then there is probably something else going on. I can't account for the pulsing motor behavior but as the problem seems to be fixed after replacing the motor I can only assume the original motor was faulty and causing the pulsing itself. The TCB should not generate any kind of pulsing signal unless something is really wrong (possibly a bridged solder joint over multiple processor pins for example).
686
« on: June 02, 2018, 12:50:34 PM »
I have not encountered this problem before. libusb0.dll should be present in your OP Config install directory, you can go look to be sure it is there.
If not, uninstall OP Config, then re-install and see if that fixes it.
687
« on: June 01, 2018, 11:37:35 AM »
Good job! It is satisfying to observe someone comprehend the possibilities and then put together a new combination of effects no one had thought of before. As soon as you described what you did it made perfect sense even though it had not occurred to me initially.
My goal was to make the TCB as flexible and adaptable as possible, and then sit back and watch what people came up with. This is a great example of a unique and interesting application. Thanks for sharing.
688
« on: May 31, 2018, 09:56:45 PM »
Unfortunately the Tamiya flash units can only be used with the Tamiya DMD, they are not compatible with the TCB or any other aftermarket controller that I know of.
689
« on: May 30, 2018, 10:05:16 AM »
I'm operating under the assumption that when given a momentary signal the MERF fires a paintball. Perhaps that is not correct, if so, ignore my ramblings. The General Purpose I/O ports are not RC outputs - they can be set to on or off, that's it. You can also set them to momentarily turn on then off using the Pulse function, this is what I theorized might be possible to control the MERF assuming it uses a 5 volt logic-level input. The pulse is very brief (1/3 of a second). If you want a custom length of time you could use the Aux output which allows you to define the pulse time as anything from 1/100th of a second to 5 seconds (the Aux output momentary function is called "Flash" instead of pulse), and yes the Aux output is also 5 volts. You can read more about these things in the Wiki. But maybe I don't understand how the paintball controller works. If instead of a momentary signal it requires feedback from some kind of "selector nub" as you call it, then the above ideas might not work (unless the selector nub can be fed into the MERF directly - I don't know enough to speak intelligently on this topic). You are correct, the Airsoft output on the TCB is equal to TCB battery voltage. It seems as if you are planning to feed the "selector nub" back into the TCB's Airsoft plug as the trigger connection. Maybe this would work, maybe not. Examine the schematic on the airsoft page closely, your paintball circuit will need to operate exactly the same way and at the same voltages otherwise you could have issues. My impression is that neither of us actually know enough about what is required to say whether any of this will work. You'll have to do some experimenting or researching about the products you have. Good luck, and don't fry anything!
690
« on: May 29, 2018, 05:23:31 PM »
Looking at the Merf 3.2 it may be possible to connect the trigger wire directly to the TCB without using a relay so long as they share a ground, but without further detailed specifications it is hard to be absolutely certain, but it expects a 5v trigger then I don't see a problem. You could also perhaps more directly use one of the General Purpose I/O ports instead of trying to hack into the Airsoft output. You just need to assign the output to whatever radio channel you also assign the cannon fire function to. If a relay is needed there are instructions for connecting one in the Wiki along with recommendations of inexpensive ones that are plug-and-play, such as this Keyestudio.
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