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« Last post by IIHadesII on November 22, 2025, 12:08:42 PM »
Aber genau das ist mein Problem =D ich möchte nicht alles kaufen, ich brauche ja ein TCB 170€ bei Torro dann brauche ein Sound Modul was auch fast 100€ kostet dann brauche ich noch die Motor Driver und alles zusammen dann +- 250€ und das wird dann alles in ein Panzer verbaut der 100€ wert hat xD.
Ich habe einige Panzer und möchte alle über eine Fernbedienung benutzen (Ich habe die FrSky X9D+) und ich möchte die Möglichkeit haben auf die schnelle die Panzer auf die Selbe Steuerung zu bringen und alle gleich einstellen können. Deswegen fand ich Open Panzer so geil, das Menu ist sehr einfach gestaltet und man kann sehr vieles einstellen so wie man es braucht.
Ich finde es tatsächlich sehr schade das der Teensy 3.2 nicht mehr gibt.... =( könnt ihr nicht so ein Sound Modul mit einem neueren Chip einfach herstellen ? Ich kann sowas leider nicht =/ Das Heclo Shield hat aber die Motor Driver auch drauf oder muss man die Motor ESC noch separat dazu Hollen ?
Und ja ich habe deinen Beitrag für den Arduino Mega gefunden =D deswegen bin ich so heiß auf eine universale und einfache Lösung =D weil so ein Arduino Mega, kriegt man beim Chinesen für ca 20€ ich habe einen sogar hier auf dem bereits Open Panzer läuft =D aber mein Wunsch ist halt :einfach, nicht zu teuer, auf alle meine Panzer das selbe und am Liebsten Open Panzer xD.
Ahja, habe versucht heute mit einem FTDI Kabel die OP Motor ESC zu connecten aber das funktioniert leider nicht und wenn ich snoop nutze bekomme ich keine infos. Beim snoopen steht aber das er Verbindung hat aber so normal kriege ich keine Verbindung und über das tcb mit baudrate von 38400 kann ich auch nicht verbinden die ESC.
Ich finde es so traurig das es bisher keine lösungen gibt das selbe system wieder aufzubauen wie vorher mit Open Panzer Sound, ESC und TCB und das ganze vielleicht als eine einzige Platine.
Mit freundlichen Grüßen
Ilias
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« Last post by LukeZ on November 22, 2025, 08:08:57 AM »
Hi Ilias, I'm glad you are liking the Open Panzer controller, and you were indeed very fortunate to get a sound card since those were never manufactured. Your assumption about an Arduino Mega + Heclo Shield is correct, EXCEPT, that the Teensy 3.2 processor which is needed for sound, was discontinued by the manufacturer a couple years ago, and is no longer available. So PCBWay would not be able to obtain it, and although the Heclo shield would still work, you would have no sound (the Heclo shield combines the TCB and the Sound Card onto a single board). The two other shield designs (FatFingers and Baldock) also let you create a TCB with an Arduino Mega. The FatFingers shield basically recreates all the functionality of the TCB, the Baldock has fewer functions. Like the original TCB, neither includes sound or speed controls. However, by the time you purchase these boards you will probably have spent just as much money as it would cost to simply buy the TCB from Torro. Depending on what you want to control, you can also use an Arduino Mega all by itself but with limited functionality. By connecting an ibus or PPM receiver, and some RC speed controls directly to the Mega, you can drive your tank and control the turret. Some have even added lights and recoil servo directly to the Mega. But if you want to use the smoker, or IR, or airsoft and some other things, then it becomes necessary to add other components through a shield or your own custom board, and the Mega by itself is no longer enough. This is the thread where all discussion about using a Mega as a TCB is discussed, I'm sure you have already found it: TCB Firmware with Stock Arduino MegaThe first post in that thread has information for using the Mega alone, but then the discussion continues for a long time on all the various shields and circuits other people have experimented with. Making your own TCB with a Mega is a fun project, but the more you want it to resemble the original TCB, the more complicated the design becomes, and eventually it makes more sense to just buy a prebuilt TCB. Luke
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« Last post by IIHadesII on November 21, 2025, 11:41:11 AM »
Hallo, Ich habe vor kurzem einen RC Panzer Konvolut aufgekauft für 200€ und da waren 6 Panzer und einer von denen hat eine Open Panzer Steuerung, das TCB, Sound Karte von Open Panzer und den Motor Driver von Open Panzer (Eigentlich erstmal Jackpot) =D. Ich habe mich sehr viel belesen im Forum und habe erstmal herausfinden müssen wie alles zum laufen gebracht wird und wie alles eingestellt wird etc. Tage lang beschäftigt und nun läuft alles und ich finde es meeeega Geil, ich bin der Meinung es gibt einfach nichts besseres als die Open Panzer Steuerung. Nun habe ich mich weiterhin damit befasst und bin soweit gekommen das ich verstanden habe das man das ganze auch von einem arduino aus steuern kann. Ich habe allerdings nicht ganz verstanden wie der einfachste weg ist, ich bin kein Programmierer oder Platinen Bastler und deswegen brauche ich eine "Einfache" Lösung. Habe ich es richtig verstanden das man mit einem Arduino Mega (Oder Analog) das Heclo Shield drauf machen kann (Muss man aber vielleicht bei PCBway oder ähnlich Bestellen) und das ganze dann mit OP Config einrichten kann und alles dann läuft ? Quasi Arduino Mega +Heclo Shield = RTR TCB ??  Entschuldigt mich falls den gleichen Thread schon mal gibt war ich vermutlich zu blöd diesen zu finden.  mit freundlichen Grüßen Ilias 
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« Last post by Dean Rauch on November 11, 2025, 10:44:13 AM »
Testing out the blade, broke one drive sprocket flange so that has been beefed up. Need some clips to hold the lift rope in the pulleys but otherwise it worked well.
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« Last post by kettenpaul on November 04, 2025, 03:16:19 PM »
Hallo Ich mache gerade ein neues Projekt: https://cults3d.com/de/modell-3d/spiel/1-10-rc-german-sdkfz-9-famo-heavy-artillery-tractorEs soll vielleicht noch ein kleiner Heckkran mit aufgebaut werden und das ganze Model mit TCB gesteuert werden. 3D-Druck mache ich mit Anycubic Kobra S1. Der Druck wird natürlich dauern ,denn es ist ja Modell 1/10. ca. 50 Stunden habe ich schon gedruckt und bin auch schon beim zusammen bauen.
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« Last post by Dean Rauch on October 31, 2025, 09:24:19 PM »
That is an impressive model. Wish I saw that before starting! I didn't think 3d printed shafts could handle the loads in the suspension and gearbox, that model weighs just about the same as my AT-T.
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« Last post by kettenpaul on October 31, 2025, 09:31:16 AM »
hallo Sehr schönes Teil, würde mir auch zusagen. Habe aber gerade was anderes in Arbeit. https://cults3d.com/de/modell-3d/spiel/1-10-rc-german-sdkfz-9-famo-heavy-artillery-tractorBin mit dem Druck voll in Arbeit.Da werde ich wohl einen Ladekran Draufbauen und dann das ganze mit dem TCB steuern.........Mal sehen Den Druck mache ich mit Anycubic Kobra S1 .Als Anfänger im 3D Druck Super Teil ,bin absolut begeistert. Der SDKFZ 9Famo ist ideal für ein FDM Drucker. Und es ist auch sehr viel Bedienung-Hilfe über den Drucker im Netz Zu finden (auf Deutsch)
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« Last post by Dean Rauch on October 30, 2025, 10:47:40 AM »
Prototype is 99% done. Sound smoke and lights are all working.
I will have to get a video soon but for now here it is with a HL Panzer for scale.
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« Last post by LukeZ on October 30, 2025, 08:50:14 AM »
I spent some time last night thinking more about the current sense procedure and I probably had not understood it very well when I wrote my earlier reply. I've looked at the code, the datasheet, and my earlier notes more closely and I've concluded you are doing it correctly, and I also think that the choice of 1.5k for the Rsense resistor is still a good one for the VNH7040. This resistor determines the maximum current we can sense, and you're right, given the ratios for the VNH7040 that comes to about 14 amps. But that is plenty, even if in theory the motor driver says it can do more than that.
But none of that is what you were really commenting on, I just got sidetracked. You were mentioning the fact that sometimes the Multi Sense pin goes to saturation, indicating an error condition; but you knew you weren't drawing anything near 14 amps. I agree with you, this is not likely a real error, but rather a transient condition. I would suggest that instead of checking for a fault condition every single time through the main loop, which will detect even the briefest of transients, that instead you look at how we are measuring currents and copy that approach for checking the fault conditions. Firstly, we only measure currents at some predetermined frequency (CurrentReadFrequency_mS which we set to 100 milliseconds). And even though we read currents ten times a second, we don't throw an overcurrent error until we have 10 consecutive readings over the limit (so in total the overcurrent condition will have to last persistently for 1 second for us to consider it valid).
You can adjust the actual frequency and count of consecutive fault indicators to whatever makes the most sense in your testing, but the idea is that this lets you weed out "false positives" or temporary spikes that are not actually relevant or persistent.
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« Last post by LukeZ on October 29, 2025, 03:05:45 PM »
Hi Neil,
Ok, I can see your GitLab project now, but only when I'm logged in. That's fine for me, but it would be good if you could set it to be visible to everyone, whether they have an account or not.
I've spent some time again beating my head against the wall with the VNH7040 datasheet. In terms of current sensing, it looks like it uses the exact same process as the VNH5019, only with different constants. What is so confusing is on page 16 of the datasheet they give the same Vsense of 0.5v for two current levels (Iout 0.05A and 0.3A), and again the same Vsense of 4v for the three remaining levels (Iout of 3A, 5A, and 10A). This should not be possible. The sense voltage (current across the sensing resistor) should change as the current changes.
Of course it would be nice if they'd tell us what resistor value they're using for their measurements, but we can deduce it. On the VNH5019, the implied resistor value was fairly consistent across all their readings, it came to about 1.1k. I can't remember now why I chose 1.5k.
But with the examples we have from the VNH7040 datasheet, if they can even be trusted, which I'm not convinced they can, the implied Rsense resistor value ranges all over the place. Of course, we can only have one value on our board (these are R115 and R116 on your schematic).
Anyway, when you're calculating 14.3A, all that means is that the voltage over the Rsense resistor has saturated - and probably, since you don't think you were drawing 14.3 amps in real life, it saturated much earlier.
I think really the best way to understand what is going on would be to take some actual measurements of current draw and simultaneously the voltage at point M1_MS (or M2_MS) on your schematic, and get some empirical evidence of what the ratios are.
A few more comments:
In your code, you might want to set motor state to MOTOR_STOPPED in these two function. Otherwise the state will still show as ROTATING even when stopped, and the current sense measurements will still occur. However I don't think this actually would cause any problems, but I thought I'd mention it anyway.
void StopMotor1(void)
{
M1_Speed = 0;
M1_OCR = 0;
if (BrakeAtStop) BrakeMotor1();
else Motor1State = MOTOR_STOPPED; // ADD THIS LINE
}
void StopMotor2(void)
{
M2_Speed = 0;
M2_OCR = 0;
if (BrakeAtStop) BrakeMotor2();
else Motor2State = MOTOR_STOPPED; // ADD THIS LINE
}
Finally, I should have told you this a year and a half ago, but the reason I put ADC7 to +5v, is so that if someday a different hardware version was made, that new version could set it to Gnd, and then the firmware could read that status of that pin on boot, and adjust the code to fit the hardware. This would let us have a single firmware for both boards, instead of two. Of course there was no way you could have known that, and it's not a problem to have two distinct firmwares. But if you ever have to redesign the board for some other reason (God forbid), you could make that change.
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