This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - LukeZ
Pages: 1 2 3 4 [5] 6 7 8 ... 78
61
« on: March 29, 2022, 03:39:08 PM »
It sounds like you're saying the MG light will start but then you are unable to turn it off. Of course as you know you need to assign a switch position to the "Machine Gun - Stop" function. If you have and it's not working, you might want to run through Radio Setup once more to make sure the end-points and positions for that switch have been correctly saved.
If you want you can post your OPZ file and I will look at it to see if I notice anything that might be a problem (connect the TCB to OP Config, read all the settings from the TCB into OP Config using the green arrow button, then go to File menu and select "Save Settings to File" and it will create an OPZ file, which you can upload here).
62
« on: March 18, 2022, 05:56:15 PM »
Hi Minimivic, yes, since the Beier can be controlled by standard RC signals, and since the TCB can output standard RC signals, you can control it that way. The Beier has many functions and you may not be able to take advantage of all of them, but as Jurgen says the basic functions should work.
63
« on: February 21, 2022, 03:36:02 PM »
Hi OldHammer, The servo in the Clark Univeral Rotation Kit seems to be a little unusual, but yes, you can follow the Clark instructions and connect it to the TCB. Disconnect the internal wires to the servo motor, solder on new wires, and connect it to either the Onboard Motor A or B outputs on the TCB. The only thing to note is that the motor A & B outputs on the TCB supply full battery voltage, so somewhere around ~8 volts if you are using a 2S Lipo or 7 cell NiMH. Most likely the servo circuit was designed for 5 volts, but since you are not using the servo circuit and soldering straight to the motor, it should be fine. As the Clark instructions say, this is not technically a 360 Turn servo. You have just converted it to a small motor with a small gearbox inside of a servo case. Technically speaking a 360 Turn servo is a servo that has been specially modified but where we still use the servo electronics. I don't know if this particular servo is capable of being modified in that way. However it doesn't sound like you need to worry about that distinction in this case. Just know that if you tried to use the Clark instructions with a different servo it would probably not work, because the servo he has provided you is different from a common servo.
64
« on: February 17, 2022, 12:00:56 PM »
Unfortunately I do not have a Tamiya Battle Unit with me, but hopefully someone else can take some measurements for you. Years ago a user at RCUniverse was making a 3D printed base for the Tamiya apple, see here for an example. He doesn't seem to be active at RCUniverse anymore, but he has a website and you could try contacting him there.
65
« on: February 15, 2022, 09:30:15 AM »
Hi NS, here are some diagrams that might help. Note that the picture you posted of the Tamiya Battle Unit shows a different connector and wire colors than what Tamiya uses. I have labelled each pin but also shown another picture of the Tamiya with the stock Tamiya wire colors.
66
« on: February 14, 2022, 01:32:21 PM »
To begin with, I want to express my great gratitude
for your contribution to the development of tank modeling. Without
I would not dare to make a serious model of your development. I have a lot of experience in 3D modeling,
but I am nothing more than an amateur in programming.
Photos and videos will be required. And even advice to those who want to repeat the project when there are real results.
I post only the finished result.
Thank you for the kind words Oleg, and I will look forward to seeing your finished tank!
67
« on: February 14, 2022, 01:31:13 PM »
K will also install IR. about that; you really make the current rise to 2 to 3A with a 3ohms resistor and a .8A transistor without blowing it?? I will get a 4A transistor just to be sure. what is the range with that setup? Oui, this is correct, although I admit it is unusual. Using such a high current is necessary to get the range we need. All boards operate the same way. Tamiya uses a 1 ohm resistor so is even more extreme, in my testing that is too extreme and can result in a burned out LED. Heng Long uses 22 ohms, Clark 26 ohm (I tested a TK22), and IBU2 70 ohms. I tested many resistors and ~3 ohms seemed to give the best tradeoff between range and reliability. Using a lower resistance would eventually burn out the LED, but higher resistances decrease the range. With the 3.3 ohm resistor I did a test where I fired the IR emitter 500 times in a row, with several seconds pause in between, and I did not burn up the IR LED emitter. I tested the range at over 40 feet / 15 meters but the actual distance can of course depend on sunlight and other conditions. We are able to do this because the IR signal is so short. The IR LED is only "on" for a fraction of a second so it can survive being driven beyond maximum values. If you look at the TCB schematic/bill-of-materials, you will see we actually use a MOSFET (not a transistor) and it can handle several amps of current. Depending on the battery you use current draw should not be much more than 2 amps. But if will be fine if you want to use a transistor rated for higher currents.
68
« on: February 14, 2022, 09:18:12 AM »
I looked at the datasheet of your IR receiver and it should work fine with the TCB. It accepts 5 volts and that is what we use. As long as it is wired correctly it should work. Do you know what IR LEDs you are using? They need to transmit on the same wavelength that your receiver can detect (according to the datasheet for the TSOP4838 it is most sensitive around 950nm). The wavelength is not something we can change in code, it is a fixed property of the IR Receiver and LED. But most likely you are using well-matched components if they are already working with your Clark board.
In many cases what seems like a big problem turns out to be something very simple that was overlooked. Double check all your connections and settings. Maybe try switching both the Clark and the TCB to Heng Long protocol and doing a test that way.
69
« on: February 14, 2022, 09:00:34 AM »
Maybe you can post a link to the LEDs you are using in case others want to try the same thing?
70
« on: February 14, 2022, 08:59:46 AM »
On the OP sound card the engine running sounds change from one to the next with a brief transition where the two sounds are overlapped and the previous sound is faded out while the next sound is faded in. I suspect the Benedini uses a more abrupt transition.
The challenge with good sound has always been the availability of good sound files, and in my personal experience I have never heard anything that sounds really wonderful especially at 1/16 scale.
71
« on: February 13, 2022, 11:44:11 AM »
Hi Amaral, I don't know what circuit you used for your DIY IR receiver so there's not much I can say about that. Not all IR receivers are the same and they need to be able to detect infrared light in the same wavelength region that the IR emitter uses. Most IR emitters operate with wavelengths between 880nm - 940nm, but are some are skewed more to one end of the range than the other. I just don't know enough about your setup to offer any advice. As for the Taigen apple, did you follow the wiring diagram shown in the Wiki? If the apple is not wired correctly it is definitely possible to damage it. Also I'm sure you thought of this but worth checking again, it is of course necessary that both boards are using the same IR protocol. Both the Clark and the TCB are capable of implementing different protocols. I would make sure you have them both set to Tamiya.
72
« on: February 12, 2022, 02:34:25 PM »
You're right, it looks like only TBS Flash v4.0 with the Mini V2 selected will accept 16 bit audio. For the original TBS Mini (v1) or versions of Flash older than v4 it needs to be 8 bit.
However you can still convert to 8 bit even in Audacity. After you've loaded your file and changed the Project Rate, go to File->Export->Export Audio. Then under the drop-down labeled "Save as type" select "Other uncompressed files." This will give you a few more options that appear below. Set Header to "WAV" and Encoding to "Unsigned 8-bit PCM"
That seems to work, but the issue you may encounter is that there is not much space on the original TBS Mini and Rad's files are very long, so you will probably fill up the whole sound card with just a couple sounds. In other words it seems as if you'd have to use the Benedini Mini V2 anyway for its increased memory size.
73
« on: February 12, 2022, 11:29:18 AM »
Actually we also need to reformat to 16 bit, see the screenshot below.
74
« on: February 12, 2022, 11:24:31 AM »
There's an option in the bottom left of the Audacity screen called "Project Rate (Hz)"
Change that to 22,050 and then export the sound file, I think that should resample it.
75
« on: February 12, 2022, 09:02:17 AM »
Welcome Oleg! It is interesting you are on opposite sides of the world but both building the same tank and both using an Arduino for control. I just posted a new member design to the Downloads page called the Baldock Shield. It seems you both already know how you want to proceed, but I mention it just in case it might give you some ideas. Le Vert, j'espère voir des photos !
Pages: 1 2 3 4 [5] 6 7 8 ... 78
|
Show Posts