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Messages - LukeZ
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526
« on: March 13, 2019, 03:50:36 AM »
I see nothing unusual in your setup. As before, I would recommend performing Radio Setup once again to verify that your controls are assigned properly.
Has this behavior appeared suddenly? Is there any other change you made recently that you can associate with this problem?
527
« on: March 12, 2019, 01:32:26 PM »
I understand your question now. That definitely should not happen. The first thing I would do is run through Radio Setup again to make sure the channels are saved correctly.
Also you can post your OPZ file and I will see if anything looks strange.
528
« on: March 11, 2019, 09:32:31 PM »
Hi juan, have you tried using the trim (or subtrim) on your transmitter to compensate?
529
« on: March 11, 2019, 04:44:11 PM »
You are correct. You can use a calculator like this one. Supply voltage = 5 volts. Desired current = 20 mA (or less). Voltage drop you can find from your LED specification. Of course the other outputs (Aux, MG, L2, etc) can supply more current, but you still need to provide a resistor or else your LED will burn out.
530
« on: March 10, 2019, 06:25:48 PM »
You need to link turn triggers to a blinking output. The triggers are Right Turn, Left Turn and Turn Stop. As for outputs there are five with blink capability: - MG1 - MG2 - Aux output - IO A - IO B You may already be using MG1 for machine gun but you still have the other outputs to choose from. IO A & B do have a current limit of 20mA, but even that should be adequate for most LED lights if you choose the correct current-limiting resistor. In short you have many options, it depends on what other outputs you already have assigned.
531
« on: March 04, 2019, 08:18:59 PM »
In recent months this forum has been inundated with spam accounts, sometimes up to a dozen a day. This creates a lot of work to delete them, or to try to figure out who is a legit user and who is a spam bot. Extensive automated measures have been taken to prevent bots from registering, but I think some foreign countries are paying cheap labor prices to have actual humans do the registration, with ill intent. Because it has become too much to keep on top of, you may find registration disabled. But you can still obtain an account! To do so you must send me a private message (PM) at either the RCUniverse or RCTankWarfare forums. My username at both is LukeZ. Your PM should have the following information: - Subject should be "Open Panzer Forum Registration"- Provide me your email address- Tell me your desired forum usernameI will manually register you and you will then be sent an email to activate your account.
532
« on: March 03, 2019, 10:44:01 PM »
Since the TCB is no longer available commercially there has been an increased interest in using an off-the-shelf Arduino Mega board as a do-it-yourself (DIY) solution. There are several challenges with this approach, but also one big problem: the TCB assigns two of its functions to pins on the ATmega2560 processor that are not actually connected on Arduino Mega boards. The processor on the TCB and Arduino Mega is the same, but for space constraints the Arduino Mega doesn't connect all the pins that are actually available, but because I designed the TCB from scratch, I was able to use any pin I wanted. To solve this problem for those wanting to experiment with Arduino Mega boards, I have just released a new version of OP Config (v0.93.46). In this new release, you will have the ability to download a "TCB - DIY Version" firmware. This "DIY" firmware will always have the same options and features as the regular TCB firmware, and will be updated on the same schedule, the only difference is that the DIY firmware will relocate the two problematic pins from the traditional TCB design. The pins that change on the DIY firmware are: - Machine Gun LED - will now be on Arduino Pin 20 (also labeled SDA on the Mega board)
- Airsoft/Mechanical Recoil Switch - will now be on Arduino Pin 21 (also labeled SCL on the Mega board)
I need to create some updated documentation to permanently record this but in the meantime the new firmware is there and will work for DIY projects.
533
« on: March 03, 2019, 10:35:07 PM »
Would it be possible to reconfigure the output pin for some functions, specifically the machine gun output (and the recoil switch) to a different pin? currently the MG uses E2 when this port is not available on the arduino. Yes, this is possible and needed to be done. We used those obscure pins on the TCB because it made board routing easier, but it's of no use for the DIY person trying to make a board with an Arduino Mega. I have just released a new version of OP Config, on the Firmware tab you will now see an option to download a "TCB - DIY Version" firmware. This firmware will always have the same options and features as the regular TCB firmware, and will be updated on the same schedule, the only difference is that the DIY firmware will relocate those two pins. The pins that change on the DIY firmware are: - Machine Gun LED - will now be on Arduino Pin 20 (also labeled SDA on the Mega board)
- Airsoft/Mechanical Recoil Switch - will now be on Arduino Pin 21 (also labeled SCL on the Mega board)
I need to create some updated documentation to permanently record this but in the meantime the new firmware is there and will work for DIY projects. Please keep us posted if you decide to go the DIY route, but maybe record your progress in the other thread so we have it all in one place.
534
« on: March 02, 2019, 12:41:32 AM »
Hi Alex, I would recommend against the first option of building the board yourself. Even though I have a lot of experience even I ruined about 40% of all the TCBs I attempted to assemble, and that is a very costly loss rate. Using the Mega as a base to DIY your own version is not a bad option but unless you add external components many features will not be available. This thread which you have probably already seen has good information. Without any soldering at all, you can get read PPM or iBus receivers (SBus receivers would require additional components), and you can drive any serial motor controller (like the Sabertooth) or RC ESCs without problem. You can also connect the Benedini or Taigen sound card with no work, and if you have a recoil servo, run that too. If you want to turn on/off LEDs you can do that too without additional components (other than current limiting resistors which you need to use anyway), so long as you don't draw more then 20mA per output. Beyond that you start to need additional components. LEDs with more than 20mA of current draw, the smoker, the high intensity flash, and IR functionality all require MOSFETs or transistors. Airsoft and mechanical recoil is not possible to get to work with the present firmware, because they use pins which the Mega boards do not bring out (even though the Mega uses the same processor as the TCB, it doesn't connect all the pins from the processor). There would of course be no on-board motor driver for the turret rotation and barrel elevation, it would be best to use a cheap RC speed controller for those (since they are such small motors you can easily get away with some cheap ones from China for a few dollars). Of course at this point you start to create quite the wiring mess. Here is another very fascinating thread by Sergey who took the DIY approach to the extreme. It is in Russian but Google translate works very well. If you just want to drive your tank around, have sound and a servo recoil, then it is pretty straightforward. If you want IR and lots of external gadgets, or need Airsoft, then it is not really going to be easy or work very well. I suppose at this point in the project what is maybe needed is a simple shield with through-hole components only that would be easy for lay-people to assemble, such as Rebus started. I can't say when or if I would have time to work on such a thing, though I think it would be a worthy endeavor. In the meantime the situation you face is as I've described. Another option is to post on RCU or other tank forums to see if anyone wants to sell an existing TCB. It's hard to believe, but not everybody liked it!  I'm sure they would be happy to make some money.
535
« on: March 02, 2019, 12:07:12 AM »
I'm new in electronics and the only thing that I can recognize on a schematic is DC+ and - 
Leaving the joke, can I replace SMD parts to THT parts somehow? Did you make or can you send me a THT EAGLE board?
Or is it possible somehow? I van make PCB for the amplifier and I can solder the MicroSD car but little SMD-s are hard to soldering for me  Hi Adam, Even the SD card holder is difficult to hand solder, I really wouldn't do it myself even, not because it is so small, but because of the design the pins are inaccessible and you really need to do reflow to secure it well. It is an interesting question if a simplified version of the sound card could be made with off-the-shelf parts that would involve more or less minimal soldering and no SMD components. As always there are complications to everything, the SD card is one complication as already mentioned. There is one SD card shield for the Teensy but the design of it hides the reset button on the Teensy which you actually need to flash firmware. Nothing is ever easy. On the other hand, cheap amplifier breakout boards are widely available on eBay and Chinese sites so that part is convenient. I am giving this some thought and I plan to test a few components. The short answer is that right now there is no good way, but if I come up with something I will post here again with my findings. At the same time I am pursuing some possibilities of production for the existing design (not through Hobby King). I hesitate to mention it because there is no guarantee any of these efforts will bear fruit, but I am trying. Nothing is going to happen quickly, but the project has not been abandoned completely.
536
« on: February 28, 2019, 12:06:45 PM »
Hi Ulrich, first set your aux channel type to "Analog" and then the passthrough function for that channel will appear in the function list.
This might sound confusing if you source channel is actually a switch, but that is the way passthrough works. It will still pass through whatever the signal is, be it a switch or anything else.
537
« on: February 27, 2019, 01:16:39 PM »
Brian, glad to hear you were able to get one of the last ones, and even better that it hopefully is not one of the defective ones.
I'm afraid I don't know what you're referring to with regards to "turret lock," can you be more specific?
I see you posted the same question in another thread, but let's keep the discussion to this single one.
538
« on: February 25, 2019, 06:38:21 PM »
I hope my friend Jürgen will also respond, but in the meantime, if I understand correctly, you want some lights to come on when others turn off. This is easy to do when you understand that you can assign multiple functions to a single trigger. If you have a trigger (for example an aux channel switch) assigned to turn normal lights on/off, use that same trigger to also turn stealth lights off/on. For example: Switch position 1 - normal lights on, stealth lights off Switch position 2 - normal lights off, stealth lights on You can turn your camouflage brake lights on by using the Brakes Applied trigger, and then turn them off by using something like the Vehicle Stopped trigger. Or you could turn them off with the Moving Forward and Moving Reverse triggers, that way the stealth brake light will remain on until the vehicle starts to move again (you can assign multiple triggers to the same function). Here is a list of all triggers.
539
« on: February 24, 2019, 03:08:52 PM »
Well that was quite the investigation on the smoker motor issue, but good work on solving it.
If you can recreate the IR hit behavior then let me know, but of course intermittent problems are always the hardest to pin down (unlike your smoker noise, this one is not repeatable). In the meantime, disable cannon and MG IR in OP Config. That way, even if you did have an IR receiver connected, and even if you did receive a direct hit from a legitimate IR battle source, your tank would still not respond.
I don't know which exact FrSky receiver you're using, but most do implement two-way communication. Be sure to keep the receiver's antennas away from the Benedini (and any other PWM cable), because that certainly can cause sound card issues.
540
« on: February 24, 2019, 01:26:33 PM »
Hi Rainer, I'm sorry but I do not understand the request. We have several German speakers on the forum, feel free to write your request in German and one of them can translate, if that helps.
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