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Messages - LukeZ
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511
« on: April 23, 2019, 01:17:40 AM »
To get the firmware on the Teensy just plug it into your computer using a USB cable. Then open OP Config, go the Firmware tab, select "Sound Card" in the Hex file drop-down list, then click the "Get Latest Release" button which will download the latest firmware. Now click the "Flash" button, OP Config will then wait until you press the button on the Teensy and when it detects that it will load the firmware.
After that the Sound Card is ready to go, you can control it either with RC or with a cable to the TCB. To adjust sounds all you have to do is change the sounds on your SD card, and any other adjustments are made with INI Creator or OP Config. You shouldn't need to load the firmware again unless new features are added later.
512
« on: April 19, 2019, 11:16:11 PM »
The good news is when I plug a mushroom into the base, I can't get it to trigger the hit. Nice to have something that is repeatable. This is more good information, I had assumed the mushroom was attached. Possibly what might be nice to add is a function to enable/disable the IR features. That way you can easily disable the IR functionality from your transmitter when the mushroom is not attached, but you can also easily re-enable it when you want to battle, and in either case you won't have to fool with re-connecting to OP Config. If one is out of channels on the transmitter, this would be a good use case for attaching a physical switch to one of the general purpose I/O ports that would then be mapped to the IR enable/disable function. You could disable IR with the flick of a switch when the mushroom is not attached, or re-enable it when it is, and avoid again having to mess with connecting to the computer. I will add this function when I next have an opportunity and let you know when it's done. How about just shorting the +5vdc to the signal wire....keeping it high until a mushroom is substituted in place of the shorting lead? That would probably work quite well. There is also an option in the hardware to enable an internal pullup resistor inside the microprocessor, reading your idea let me to examine the source code and I see this internal pullup is not enabled. I think it could be without deleterious effect, and that would accomplish the same thing. I will make that change as well and again let you know when the firmware has been updated. Hopefully one or both of these changes will correct this flaky behavior. I really appreciate your in-depth investigation which after all this time has led us to some (hopefully) fruitful options.
513
« on: April 19, 2019, 05:31:52 PM »
Ok, so apparently even without the slipring the IR receiver is still sensitive enough to interpret interference as a hit. I think it's telling that it reads the Tamiya 2-shot, which would be about the easiest to mistake. I'm not sure the resistor to ground would do much, but it wouldn't hurt so you could try it. Probably more effective would be to use a shielded cable and also to bypass the hull connector (would require plugging/unplugging at the TCB itself, not very convenient). Of course to the extent possible you can also try to route the IR wires away from any motor/servo wires, also away from the receiver especially if it is a two-way version. Understandably in a small model with a million wires this can be hard to do, and of course as soon as the turret begins to turn the wires are going to shift around anyway... If we were designing model tank systems from scratch today we could eliminate this issue by using a more robust IR protocol such as the FOV signals which could not be mistaken for noise and would have the added benefit of being able to transmit actual information - allowing teams, opponent weight class identification or different types of ammunition, etc... But Tamiya has become the standard and so that is what we have. PS, any truth to the rumor there may be another manufacturer looking into making the TCB? I can confirm no such rumor, and I'm curious as to where it came from? I myself had not heard it until now, pretty bad when I'm not even up to speed on my own rumors! 
514
« on: April 19, 2019, 04:19:40 PM »
I think you have identified the problem with random hits, and it is the slip-ring. This is not the first report of such a thing, I remember Erik from Taigen encountering something similar all the way back in 2016. I should have asked about the slip-ring but didn't think about it.
The slip-ring is literally an electrical noise generator. You have IR enabled and you have the IR connections running through the slip-ring. Some tanks use intricate IR protocols that actually contain digital information (FOV and VsTank in particular) that would be difficult to spoof, but others use very simple protocols, none more simple than the Tamiya, and none more simple than the Tamiya 2-shot kill (two pulses separated by a short length of time, that's it). Random noise on the IR signal line would easily be interpreted as an IR hit. Since the slip-ring has 14 signals passing within millimeters of each other, not to mention arcing, it is almost unavoidable that something indistinguishable from an IR signal will be detected.
The unfortunate answer is that IR functionality is not compatible with the slip-ring system. I wouldn't be surprised if it causes problems even on stock Taigen models, but no one running stock Taigen models ever uses IR so we don't hear about it (however it is also true the Taigen signal is more complex than the Tamiya).
Now this may not answer all your questions, and presumably there is no slip-ring on your SU-152 so that one remains something of a mystery for the time being. But if you disable IR reception on the Panther, or if you run the IR wires directly (bypassing the slip-ring), you should no longer receive random hits.
515
« on: April 17, 2019, 02:38:13 PM »
I will definitely look forward to seeing your trip report! I will keep an eye out on RCUniverse.
516
« on: April 15, 2019, 06:33:28 PM »
haha, Lukez
honestly, I find it is a pain in the ass to adjust the settings after I have put the TCB inside it. you know what I mean ^_^
I do know what you mean! However the turn modes and both acceleration and deceleration constraints can all be adjusted from your transmitter, if you have enough channels. I typically put the turn modes on a 3-position switch (since there are 3 modes), and assign the acceleration and deceleration to two potentiometers. I may also enable/disable neutral turns on the same 3-position switch (I usually have neutral turn enabled in turn mode 1 for fine maneuvering, and disabled on turn modes 2 and 3 which are better for faster movement). I think you would find these "on-the-fly" adjustments useful. Will you go to Militracks 2019? That would be very fun I'm sure! But no, I will not be traveling to the Netherlands next month. Are you going all the way from Shanghai?!
517
« on: April 09, 2019, 02:07:22 PM »
I seemed to be doing everything the same as before, except for engine start on throttle. Well that is not quite everything the same as before, that would be a change which both points to the original issue and solved it. As for the absence of moving indicators on the red and green LEDs - that is certainly not normal behavior. Do the red and green LEDs ever light up at all under any circumstance? I am wondering if the factory installed them backwards. That is not something anyone else has reported so it seems unlikely, but I can't think of any other reason they would fail to light.
518
« on: April 09, 2019, 12:58:47 AM »
Blue led flashes when throttle moved but no movement of motors of red or green leds. If the blue LED you're referring to is the one on the Sabertooth, I don't think it gives much useful information. There is a also a blue LED on the TCB that simply indicates if data is being sent out the MOTOR serial port, but not all data sent to the Sabertooth necessarily leads to movement. What interests me about your statements is that you are not seeing anything on the Red and Green LEDs on the TCB. Those do provide information about vehicle movement as described in the Wiki. If they are not doing anything, then the TCB is not trying to move. Have you assigned a trigger to the Engine On function? Note that nothing will happen until you explicitly command the TCB to "start the engine." You can assign this to a switch or you can have the engine automatically start when you move the throttle (this setting is on the Driving tab). Make sure you also have the dipswitches on the Sabertooth set correctly. I'm sure whatever the issue is it's something very simple and we will figure it out shortly.
519
« on: April 06, 2019, 01:55:37 PM »
Very nice! You did an excellent job on the paint. Obviously everyone here or at RCUniverse wants to see a video sometime!
I am curious if you are using any driving adjustments (momentum/inertia/nudge/turning modes) and if so what you think of them at this scale.
520
« on: March 25, 2019, 01:59:11 PM »
Probably could have been corrected by re-running Radio Setup, or checking the trainer switch end points, but either way glad you got it working and thank you for reporting back.
521
« on: March 22, 2019, 10:48:25 PM »
If I understand your earlier comments correctly, it is possible to get a gyro to work on one axis or the other correctly, but since they are designed for helicopters and not tanks, there is not an appropriate mode that will control both the turret rotation and barrel elevation channels in the manner we need, is that about right?
I wonder if using two independent single-axis gyros, one for each channel, might be the simplest approach. But we will look forward to seeing your progress with the A3S3.
522
« on: March 22, 2019, 10:42:24 PM »
Should I buy hot air soldering base? I have never needed to use a hot air station, though it might have come in convenient at times. I would invest in a good soldering iron over a hot air station, I use the Weller WLC100 and an ST7 fine tip. But there are some things an iron simply can't do. For reflow soldering I use a cheap electric hot plate (like what you get for cooking). I have no progress to report on the DIY sound card idea. I'm still waiting on some parts from China to do more testing with.
523
« on: March 15, 2019, 03:34:10 PM »
Hi Ulrich, can you give us a link to the gyro you are using as well as to the other ones you are considering? It would be nice for us to see what you're doing so we can follow along, or try it ourselves.
You will want to make sure the ESC you are using for the turret rotation does not have "brake" enabled (most do). With brake it will not want to change direction immediately.
The other problem I would think is that the standard turret rotation motors (Heng Long/Taigen) are very slow and would not be able to move fast enough. A high speed servo, modified for continuous rotation, might work better.
From your description it sounds like in theory the 3-axis gyro is all you need, the problem is in the mechanical implementation (if I understand you correctly). There is actually no such thing as a "6-axis" gyro, there are only ever 3 axis of movement. What they call "6-axis" just means essentially that it is more sensitive, but the functionality is going to be basically the same. However as you point out maybe one of the advanced "modes" available on the "6-axis" would work better in practice.
524
« on: March 15, 2019, 03:17:15 PM »
I will definitely be watching with interest!
525
« on: March 13, 2019, 07:08:10 PM »
The most likely cause is that your cannon fire channel (Aux 3) is hovering around the trip point (between position 1 and 2). Check the end-points for that channel in your transmitter. Also observe that channel while doing "Read Radio," and make sure OP Config is reading the two discrete positions solidly. Possibly you may need to "Save Min/Max" once more and make sure it has correctly recorded the full range of that channel.
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