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Messages - LukeZ
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361
« on: December 09, 2019, 02:12:44 PM »
You don't need the "User Sound 2 - Play Once" function in OP Config, you only need the Cannon Fire function.
The User Sounds are extra sounds that will only work with the Benedini Mini. The sound numbers in OP Config and in TBS Flash are not related to each other. You can read more about user sounds on the Wiki page for the Benedini Mini (not the Micro), but anyway you are using the Micro so it doesn't matter at this point.
Anyway the fix is easy. In OP Config, on the Sounds tab, you need to change the sound card selection to the Benedini Micro, right now you have the Benedini Mini selected. Once you make this change OP Config should automatically remove the "User Sound 2 - Play Once" function from the functions list, because it is not supported for the Micro. But regardless go back to the Functions tab and make sure it is gone, but also make sure the cannon fire function is still defined as you have it now.
Probably that is all it will take. It looks to me like you have TBS Flash setup correctly.
362
« on: December 08, 2019, 07:01:49 AM »
Hi Wibbly, sorry I've been slow to reply but I see that the longer I've waited the more problems you have solved until now maybe there is nothing left to do. I hope you will consider doing a writeup of the details of your wiring for others to copy.
I don't know how you've got the DasMikro setup but I would suggest following the arrangement described in the Wiki. There are other ways to do it, as you mentioned before even bypassing the TCB/Mega entirely and driving it straight from your receiver, but then the sounds will not be synchronized. I assume that was what you had going on, but let us know when you get it all sorted. I'm sure your experiments will be of great use to others.
363
« on: December 05, 2019, 01:32:00 PM »
Sergey's schematic could be misleading to newcomers to electronics, but in fact what is important is that every component share the same ground and his circuit does that. Most of the shared grounds are connected up near his on/off switch so it can look like there isn't a ground for example on his voltage regulator, or that his servo outputs don't have a ground connection with the Arduino, but they do. Ordinarily an Arduino has both the servo GND and a battery GND onto the Arduino. I am assuming that this isn't required, and that the servo GND is the only one required? Your servo will of course always require GND and positive voltage (as well as the signal). But of those first two only the GND is necessary to share with the Arduino. As long as the ground connection to your servo connects to some wire somewhere that also connects to the ground on your Arduino and the ground on your source battery, then you are fine. The positive voltage does not have to be shared, for example if you want to run your servo at 6 volts but the Arduino is running at 5. That's fine, they can be powered at different levels just so long as all grounds are common (this means your battery, your voltage regulator, and all devices including Arduino, servos, ESCs, etc all share a common ground).
364
« on: December 05, 2019, 08:58:02 AM »
It sounds like you have the servo wired correctly - pin 25 to servo signal, plus +5v and ground or 6 volts if you want, servos usually aren't very picky about source voltage. If you had it in repair mode then the servo would not recoil when you fire the cannon, but it sounds like you corrected that. It could be that for some reason the recoil servo's saved endpoints are just too narrow so it doesn't look like it's doing anything. It would be worth going through the recoil setup menu, that will tell you both if the servo is working correctly but also of course let you set up the endpoints to your liking. You can read about recoil setup on this page and there is even an instructional video. To enter the recoil menu first dipswitch 3 and 4 have to be off but since they aren't even connected on your 2560 they are already off by default. Then you have to "press and hold the input button for 2 seconds." This button (or it can just be a wire) connects to Arduino Analog input 14 (ADC14), and you "push" it by connecting it to ground. It would be good to do this while Snooping so you can get confirmation that things are working correctly, as you won't probably have the green and red LEDs as visual aids. I still had the problem where the low voltage warning would simply shut the board down.
I took a look back through the info available on the site and found a reference to pin 15? Should this be pinned to GND to activate the LV warning correctly? Arduino Pin 15 is the input for digital receivers (SBus or Ibus), but I think you mean pin A15 (or ADC15). It can be confusing, but there are digital and analog pins on your Mega and so even though they have some of the same numbers there is a difference between 15 and A15. Since you don't have an LVC circuit the best thing to do is disable LVC entirely in OP Config. But the other thing that would not be a bad idea is to connect pin A15 to +5 volts, that will fool the Mega into thinking the battery voltage is somewhere around 16 volts and therefore the cutoff shouldn't happen. Frankly it shouldn't happen either if the LVC is just disabled in OP Config but I don't, maybe an occasional glitch could happen if we leave the pin disconnected.
365
« on: December 03, 2019, 11:36:33 AM »
I’m glad to hear it! I hope others will be encouraged by your experience to try the same thing.
366
« on: December 03, 2019, 08:54:11 AM »
Hi Wibbly, the TCB and the Arduino operate identically so all the settings on the Wiki for the TCB will apply in your case as well.
As for wiring, you are correct - you need to connect Prop 1, Prop2 and Prop 3 to Arduino pins 22, 23, and 24 (you can use all three Props with the Benedini Mini, but only Prop 1 and 2 with the Micro or Micro clones). Then as you say provide +5v and Gnd to the Benedini (you only need to provide it once, it doesn't have to be copied on each Prop input).
As for using the Y-lead directly from your receiver - yes, you can do that if you want, but at that point you are bypassing completely the TCB so the engine will probably not be synchronized and I don't know how the Benedini would know to play the sounds like the machine gun and cannon unless you program those into your transmitter separately which I think would get to be too complicated.
367
« on: December 01, 2019, 08:35:07 PM »
The IR pin would not be a good choice because it sends out a long signal which will not look like a flash. There is nothing to stop you using Arduino Pin 41, the Heng Long/Taigen flash unit just takes a short signal so if connected to an LED that would just be a flash. OP Config also offers the options to configure a flash (or "pulse", same thing) on the Aux Output (Arduino pin  or either of the general-purpose I/O A or B (Arduino pins A9 and A8). The Aux output would be best since there is already an "Auto flash with cannon" checkbox to make it even easier (see the Lights & I/O tab). In any case you probably need to use a transistor rather than drive the LED directly from the Arduino, and remember to use a current-limiting resistor inline with your LED that matches the specs for your LED.
368
« on: November 30, 2019, 11:58:13 PM »
Thanks Wibbly for keeping us posted. Your tank is running quite well from the looks of it. One question that someone may be able to answer?
I currently have two 2000mah 2S Lipo's installed. One powers the Arduino, the other powers the esc's and recoil servo. Can I assume that using a single battery will work perfectly, I tested it this way to avoid any power spikes to the Arduino, but I am guessing that this is overkill. Yes, a single battery should work just fine and I don't expect any issues with spikes to the Arduino, since in fact a single battery is all we use with the TCB. If your drive motors draw too much current and lower the source battery voltage too much the TCB (but more likely your receiver) will brown out (meaning reset), but that is really just an issue of a dead battery rather than spikes or temporary drops. Just to let you guys know I am in the midst of a long-distance move and will be rather pre-occupied for the next few weeks. But keep on as you are as I suspect many others are reading about your project who aren't posting.
369
« on: November 28, 2019, 09:05:39 PM »
Thanks Wibbly for the positive comments. I'm glad you're making progress on your project and that things are working. Perseverance is the key with all this tinkering and you have certainly stuck with it. Keep us posted, and as always I am happy to help with any new obstacles that spring up in your way!
370
« on: November 26, 2019, 12:16:33 AM »
Yes, I plan on using MOSFETs externally for various third-party devices.
As the saying goes, a good thought comes after I handed over the layout to production, now I would have done some things differently. Yes, I certainly know about that! No sooner do you send your board design off to be produced, do you remember something that should be changed. The production version of the TCB board that Hobby King sold was my 23rd revision. You never get it right the first time! Anyway I am glad you are interested in building these designs and of course that is one of the goals of the open source project, to have others adapt the existing work to their own needs. You don't have to link to photos at Google Docs or any other image hosting site, just upload them to the forum using the "Attachments and other options" link below the area where you type your post. Jurgen, I have attached the two images that NS-21 posted earlier in case you couldn't see them.
371
« on: November 25, 2019, 03:31:14 PM »
This is my first experience with PCB layout and EasyEDA in my life. 
I have already placed an order, now I am only waiting for the arrival of components.
Should I create a new topic or describe my experience in this topic?
Good work, your trace layout is very neat! I think we can keep the discussion in this thread where more people will see it. Am I correct that you still expect to use additional components off-board? For example I see all the light outputs but no MOSFETs to switch them.
372
« on: November 25, 2019, 10:59:25 AM »
Yes, the DIY firmware has full functionality. It can do everything the regular firmware can do. The only difference is the attachment of some pins which are necessary to change in order to be compatible with off-the-shelf Arduino Mega boards.
Please keep us posted on your project!
373
« on: November 21, 2019, 02:31:57 PM »
Well LVC would explain why it stops moving right away. I just tested mine and I can turn off LVC without a problem, remember that if you make any changes in OP Config, including just un-checking the LVC option, you need to write the changes to your TCB/Mega for them to take effect.
I would also make sure you have the most recent version of OP Config as well as the most recent firmware on the board. I have made some changes to both recently, not related to LVC necessarily but if you are using mis-matched versions of OP Config/firmware it can cause confusing issues. This seems more likely to be the case for you because from your screenshot it shouldn't matter even if LVC is enabled since your battery voltage is obviously higher than the cutoff level.
374
« on: November 21, 2019, 07:59:05 AM »
I am using a PWM tx/rx and an S2PW pwm>ppm converter. These are widely used in the RC aircraft world and are reliable. I have mentioned this many times before and at the risk of sounding like a broken record, PWM-to-PPM converters are not recommended. They are not widely used in my opinion and the whole reason digital receivers were invented is to eliminate all the problems and shortcomings not only of these converters but of native PPM itself. The TCB is designed for high channel count digital radios, buy one! But putting that aside let's focus on your issue. Note, I've merged your question with the Arduino Mega testing thread since that is what you are working with. Your physical wiring sounds correct. Only do not connect 5v from your ESC to the Mega! Just GND and Signal. (Of course for your receiver you do want 5v). The most that happens is that the tank motor will run for a few seconds using Channel 3, but if I centre the stick it will not then restart. It will not run in reverse.
What have I missed?
Have you run Radio Setup on this arrangement? You will get nowhere until that is completed. Watching the channels move during Radio Setup will tell you whether the Mega is reading all the channels correctly, and lets you confirm whether they are mapped correctly to your functions. Once that has been completed successfully if you still have problems run your Mega while connected to OP Config in Snoop. This will tell you if you are able to start the engine correctly and whether it is responding to throttle/steering commands as you would expect.
375
« on: November 18, 2019, 10:32:08 PM »
I'm glad that's all it was!
Since you have done all this work, can you confirm that the BC337 works with the same resistors listed in the TCB schematic (47k and 18k)? This would be good information for others to know who might try this same thing.
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