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Messages - LukeZ
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« on: September 01, 2020, 12:46:29 PM »
Hi Guys,
You will notice I have moved the posts about the Heclo shield here, to this new thread which we can dedicate to the project, keeping it separate from other discussions.
Kim, I am working on getting your files posted to GitHub and making some changes to OP Config so it will be better integrated. I will let you know when it is ready to review.
257
« on: August 25, 2020, 02:09:25 PM »
I will be watching your progress with interest, and I hope Dean stumbles across this as well! I'm sure it will be flattering to see someone else follow in his footsteps.
The possibilities with 3D printing are really tremendous, but I have always been put off by the rough surface texture that seems like it would take an eternity to sand smooth especially on a scale model tank with lots of small parts and difficult to reach corners. However the printing quality seems to always be improving and the parts you are printing are looking worlds better than what people were doing several years ago. It's great that this method could allow us to realize some of the less-popular models the manufacturers are never going to produce but that we might always have wanted.
258
« on: August 24, 2020, 05:29:24 AM »
I was very impressed with the work Mr Hort put into his design, you are right, he has a very detailed build guide, almost like a Tamiya manual! For anyone else interested in his designs I found his webpage: Luboš Hort 3D Printed Models
259
« on: August 23, 2020, 11:46:27 AM »
Hi JP, that is quite impressive and I was also very interested to hear about Lubos Hort and TheDIYGuy999, neither of who I had ever come across before. Both are doing some very interesting things, I see DIYGuy is working on suspension simulation. There was a tank project a few years back that promised to implement the same thing, if I recall it was in smaller scale tanks, and the demos were extremely impressive. I don't think they ever finished their project.
Anyway your tank looks great and I think the sound is good too. Keep us posted on your Heclo shield.
260
« on: August 19, 2020, 02:15:48 PM »
Hi Kim, thanks for posting the firmware. I am in the middle of moving right now so I have not yet had time to look at it. Next week when I get settled into my new place I will try to set aside some time and get it posted to GitHub.
261
« on: August 17, 2020, 10:09:02 AM »
Hi Rad, good questions. I haven't done many experiments myself so I can't really give you a detailed arrangement that I know will work from my own experience. But I can tell you what the limits of the TCB are and there are also lots of good resources online. The Smoker output on the TCB can handle at least 3 amps, which should be more than enough for whatever resistor you want to use. Typical values are somewhere in the range of 5 to 20 ohms, the lower the resistor the higher the current, but even with 5 ohms and a 7 volt battery you will only be drawing about 1.4 amps (this doesn't count the current of fan, but that is usually not very much). As you probably saw, you now also have the option of putting the heating element on the Smoker output and driving the fan separately on the Aux output. This allows you to keep the resistor at maximum heat even when the fan is turning slowly. There are lots of options, see the Motors tab of OP Config for more. One thing to keep in mind is that the Aux output is always 5 volts so you will need to use a 5 volt fan, and try not to draw too much current on the fan (the TCB has a limit of 3 amps for all 5 volt outputs combined, that includes lights, servos, etc...) But most small computer fans draw very little. (The voltage on the Smoker output is whatever the voltage of your battery is.) For the actual resistance it is just something you have to experiment with. The main thing is to get a resistor with a high enough watt rating that it won't burn up. To calculate watts you can multiply current * voltage. In our example above with a 5 ohm resistor at 7 volts, current is calculated to be 1.4 amps, multiply that by voltage of 7 and we get almost 10 watts. It is unlikely you'll find a resistor small enough with a 10 watt rating, you might only find a 1 watt resistor. But they can be overloaded before they burn out (in fact we want to overload them because that is how we are creating the heat). If we have a 1 watt resistor and we are pushing 10 watts through it, that is overloading it by a factor of 10. A users on RCUniverse (danlrc) years back did some tests and found the resistors would usually last fairly well if we keep the overloading factor to 15 or lower. It also helps to use a wirewound resistor instead of carbon film. There was a really good thread years ago that you might find interesting: Heng Long Tiger Smoke Unit Repair and ModFor wicks some guys just use strips from an old cotton t-shirt. Or if you want to get more fancy you can use kevlar string or wick, they talk about that in the same thread.
262
« on: August 06, 2020, 11:08:04 AM »
When you do something you really are thorough! These are great, thanks for sharing. I've put links to both on the Downloads page.
263
« on: August 06, 2020, 11:03:24 AM »
Looks like you have found the problem! It almost looks like it might have gotten wet, or maybe it just burned up for some reason. I'm surprised it worked at all.
I presume the new one works fine?
264
« on: August 04, 2020, 05:41:07 AM »
Let us know!
265
« on: August 03, 2020, 05:45:53 AM »
I agree, it looks to be the same thing.
266
« on: August 02, 2020, 04:04:20 PM »
If I understand correctly, it sounds like the left ESC is always slower no matter what RC channel it is connected to. To me this would eliminate the TCB as the source of the problem. If you really want to be sure, you could just try connecting that speed controller directly to your RC receiver (skip the TCB entirely) and see if it still moves slower than expected.
I have not heard of a faulty XCar-45 speed control before, but there is a first time for everything. I think you need to try a new speed control.
(PS: I don't see anything unusual with your OPZ file, but thanks for posting it.)
267
« on: August 02, 2020, 06:51:45 AM »
What we need to do is determine if the problem is:
A) faulty ESC
B) or perhaps for some reason that ESC is being given a slower signal
Instead of swapping the motors, try swapping the ESC servo wires on the TCB (swap RC Output 1 and 2). If the left ESC is still slower, that would indicate a problem with the ESC. But if now the right ESC is slower, that would indicate a problem with the signal.
Can you also post your OPZ file for me to examine? (In OP Config, open the File menu and select "Save Settings to File")
268
« on: August 01, 2020, 03:51:03 PM »
That's strange, but I'm sure we will find it to be something very simple in the end. Can you make sure you have both ESCs set to "crawler" mode? See here for instructions. As a test can you also set the reverse speed limit to 100% and see if that makes any difference? Setting is on the Driving tab of OP Config. It would also be good to connect to OP Config with Snoop and watch the console window as you move the sticks, to make sure the debugging messages really do correspond with what you command (it says forward when you move forward, it says right and left turn when you right and left turn, etc...) For this test it is not important what the tank does - it is just important that the Snoop messages match what you command it to do.
269
« on: August 01, 2020, 05:43:48 AM »
By default the TCB limits reverse driving speed (this can be changed in OP Config, but that is the default behavior). What you describe sounds exactly like one gearbox is running in reverse when you are expecting it to go forward.
Almost certainly this is simply an issue with how you set up the radio. You should run Radio Setup again in OP Config, and pay careful attention to the throttle and steering channels. Make sure that when you move your transmitter stick during Radio Setup that OP Config accurately reflects the direction you are moving the stick. If it doesn't, then reverse a channel in OP Config until it does.
After that, you will probably find that your tank does not move in the correct direction when you move the transmitter sticks. So now you need to swap the motor +/- wires to the ESC until it does.
270
« on: July 31, 2020, 03:53:31 PM »
Thanks for measuring that Jerry, those numbers are much more reasonable thankfully! That sounds closer to what I would have expected, and well within the tolerances of your board even with 1 oz copper which is good to know. Who knows what you must have done to that poor old smoker to have it draw over 2 amps! But these things are cheap and who knows what can happen. Maybe the little air-pump got gummed up with old fluid.
I am not surprised the current rises slightly over time as the smoker gets hot, there is definitely a relationship between the resistance of a conductor and its temperature, which principle as you know is used in reverse with thermistors to measure temperature! I've only taken apart a handful of older version Heng Long smokers and I thought they just used an actual resistor, but I would not be surprised if some of the newer ones do use nichrome wire as you have found.
It is hard for me to keep up with all the continuous developments but it seems Heng Long has really been upping their game. I notice in pictures their new smokers drive the heating element and fan separately, which is a much better arrangement (we added that feature to the TCB last year). I've also seen pictures of their new differential transmission similar to the DKLM gearbox, but haven't seen it in action. I have one of the DKLM geardrives and I really like it, but I don't know if Heng Long plan to release versions of theirs compatible with all their old models or if it will only fit in certain newer ones.
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