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Messages - LukeZ
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 5 ... 78
16
« on: January 02, 2024, 11:50:10 AM »
Hi Chris,
Congrats on the most epic first post of all time! Guess you decided to jump straight into the deep end.
Back in the day I actually had complied in 5.6 with High DPI as a test, but since I didn't have a display with resolution greater than 1080P, it wasn't a very useful test. From what you've shown, the High DPI setting does seem to work well.
What this test back then did show me however were a few challenges that would come with upgrading to 5.6. The biggest downside was that QT Assistant (the program that renders all the built-in help files), was no longer supported, and at the time there wasn't a clear replacement. You can see a note to this effect in your first screen shot. It seemed a shame to lose the help, and most people were probably not using high resolution displays (well, that would have been more true in the past than today), so I stuck with 5.4. There were some other annoying bugs with 5.6, however I have heard they were fixed in later versions which did not exist back then.
Obviously if we're up to 5.15 now (not to mention 6.x), then a lot has changed in the intervening years, and maybe it is possible to get OP Config fully functional with a newer version. Having the high resolution issue resolved is a big advantage, but thorough testing needs to be done to make sure all the other components work.
If you want to keep experimenting please keep me posted on your progress and I'll be happy to help as I can!
Luke
17
« on: November 27, 2023, 07:09:48 AM »
You can use any ESC that you want, the Sabertooth is not required.
18
« on: November 22, 2023, 08:20:46 AM »
Good work, and that's with two speed controllers and the bulky OP sound card. You've even kept the wiring very clean!
19
« on: October 27, 2023, 02:10:38 PM »
I'm glad to have helped!
20
« on: October 27, 2023, 11:15:38 AM »
Hi Rongyos,
This should be easy to do. You have the right idea. Try putting this code in the setup() routine of TankIR.ino, after the "RECOIL SERVO DEFINITION" and just before the "BATTLE SETTINGS" section (in other words, somewhere around line 139)
#define pin_WeightJumper 7
unsigned char WC;
pinMode(pin_WeightJumper, INPUT_PULLUP);
if (digitalRead(pin_WeightJumper) == LOW)
{
WC = WC_HEAVY;
}
else
{
WC = WC_MEDIUM;
}
Next, in the "BATTLE SETTINGS" section just below you just need to set BattleSettings.WeightClass to our new variable WC (replacing the WEIGHT_CLASS that was there before). This is currently at line 145:
BattleSettings.WeightClass = WC;
The check will only occur once at startup, in other words, if you change the jumper after the board has power the code won't do anything, you will have to reboot before it checks again.
Let me know if it works!
21
« on: September 04, 2023, 01:48:56 PM »
Hi Sub, sorry for the slow reply. I would have guessed the voltage regulator as well, but you discovered it yourself. Good work, and thanks for reporting back.
I remember reading somewhere that some of the Chinese Arduino boards use voltage regulators which have a lower current rating than what they claim in the specifications. At higher currents, this could cause the thermal shutoff that you theorize. And the higher the input voltage that the regulator has to drop to 5 volts, the more current and heat will be created. This might explain why yours worked with a lower voltage battery but not with a higher voltage battery.
In your case it seems like the regulator worked for a long time but slowly began to fail. I guess it was just a poor quality part. I agree, hopefully this information will be useful to others.
22
« on: July 08, 2023, 03:29:05 PM »
Hi Rongyos,
I don't know if I understand your question exactly, but I will try to explain this bit of code and maybe that will help you.
First of all, if we reach the code you have posted, we already know that we have received a cannon hit (not a machine gun hit).
By this point we have also already calculated our new damage percentage based on this cannon hit. All that has come before this code.
Now, in the code you posted, we have the first part of the "if" statement: if (DamagePct >= 100.0)
This means that we've added up all our damage and it's equal to or over 100%, therefore the tank is "destroyed" and must be disabled.
The second part of the "if" statement is the "else" condition: else we have been hit, and our damage has increased, but we are not yet destroyed (in other words, damage is less than 100%).
In that case we flash the LEDs in the apple that indicate a hit was received. We also enable an invulnerability timer, but only a very brief one. This is simply to prevent receiving multiple hits from a single shot of someone's cannon. As you know, the Tamiya signal lasts for a full second - that would be enough time for us to register many hits if we didn't have this brief timer.
I hope that helps!
23
« on: June 14, 2023, 03:27:15 PM »
Well it took me two years, but I finally got around to adding the Wiki page for the barrel smoker. Please feel free to continue using this thread for questions and discussions about barrel smokers. Barrel Smoker Wiki page
24
« on: June 04, 2023, 03:22:17 PM »
Thanks again Rongyos for helping with the testing!
I've finalized all the changes and posted a new official release, it is version 0.93.76 (both TCB and OP Config). I've also updated information in the Wiki.
25
« on: June 02, 2023, 03:43:51 PM »
Ok, I've taken your suggestions.
- The fade back to full brightness at the end has been shortened to almost nothing.
- The flickering has been "softened" a little. I have limited how much the brightness can vary between each step so that it doesn't make changes so abruptly.
I hope this looks better.
26
« on: May 31, 2023, 04:42:40 PM »
Hi Rongyos, I bought a cheap Arduino UNO and a couple LEDs so I could do some testing on my laptop. Here is yet another update where I've adjusted the flickering effect to be about as good as I can get it. Other changes: - I've removed completely any effect on the headlight output since that simply doesn't look good.
- But I did add the effect on the Aux output (Arduino pin 8 ). So you use that for your headlights instead. Of course the Aux output needs to be On when the engine is started or else nothing will happen.
- The flickering effect will apply correctly now to the brake light depending on whether the brake light is on or just the running light.
- When the flickering is finished (the transmission engage delay has expired/your engine start sound has finished), the lights will gradually return to full brightness instead of doing so abruptly all at one.
You can let me know what you think.
27
« on: May 27, 2023, 10:37:10 AM »
The idea here is that we would "flicker" the lights (an English word a little differing than flashing or blinking), during the time that the engine is starting. On old tanks (and even old cars) the current draw from the engine starter motor would reduce the battery voltage so that headlights would look dim until the engine started and the alternator began creating current. That is the effect we are trying to create here.
28
« on: May 26, 2023, 03:54:02 PM »
Well I'm glad we are making progress!
To answer your question, we don't need to have full off, but that line of code could result in a full off. The random(100) means it will choose a value between 0 and 100, so it was possible that it could choose 0 (off). However the code I posted this afternoon wouldn't go to full off, but you're right, it would possibly go to full brightness.
You can try the attached version, here is the code that I am using this time. For the "dimmer" setting you can see we won't go below 50. For the "brighter" setting I took your suggestion and we won't go above 225:
if (flickerState) analogWrite(pin_Brakelights, random(70)+50); // Dimmer - random value between 50 and 120
else analogWrite(pin_Brakelights, random(45)+180); // Brighter - random value between 180 and 225
If you get tired of all the back and forth you could also try compiling the code in the Arduino IDE yourself, and then you could change it as much as you want until you find the perfect settings. But I'm also happy to keep making adjustments this way.
29
« on: May 26, 2023, 11:00:12 AM »
I see what you mean about it being a bit harsh. I can't quite use the faderate code as written, but I've tried to soften it some more in the attached.
I think I will need to buy an Arduino and LED to do some testing at home. I've been using an online emulator but it really doesn't provide an accurate representation of what the LED will look like.
30
« on: May 25, 2023, 10:10:19 AM »
I'm afraid I don't have a suggestion, the fact is I am not too experienced with sound circuits even though I designed one. Hopefully someone else will have a suggestion. I think this is definitely an application where it helps to have the components on a board and a DIY one with lots of wires will certainly be susceptible to interference.
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