[Snipah]

You Sir are a Wizard Mr Luke 

[JPS99]

Hello everyone!
The T-35 is finished, and its done in less than a year!
It has been detailed (with some help) to the best of my abilities and is now mechanically reliable enough for me to be satisfied with.
Please see below some shots of the finished product. More shots and videos will be posted when I gather all the files for Thingiverse.
Let me know what you think!

Dean, the tank is simply amazing, so much complexity and detail!  Were all the parts printed on an FDM printer or were some of the fine detail done using a resin printer?

I am currently assembling the tracks and almost done printing the hull pieces. I have two Ender 5 printers so things go a little faster. Still, this will fill a big chunk of my 'Covid-19 downtime'.

[JPS99]

Hi Dean, I'm beginning the assembly of the road wheels on the T-35 and wondering what type and gauge of metal you used for the 'springs' for the road wheels?  Does anyone know or have a suggestion? Otherwise I'll measure the slit built into the road wheel and used that for the thickness dimension, then attempt to find something with an appropriate amount of 'spring' to it.

Thanks,
Joe

[Dean Rauch]

Hello Joe!

Glad to see you are making progress, I am always surprised when I see someone who decides to take on this project despite the number of parts!
All of my parts were made FDM on my makergear M2, with the exception of the tracks, done on a pair of Flashforge Dreamers.
As for the metal in the springs, I had some engineering samples of coiled spring steel at work that fit into the gap. I wouldn't want to use anything else here, it may not retain its shape. I think you could use any spring steel that will fit in there that you can get your hands on. ( maybe inside an old tape measure?)
I had to double up the springs at the rear to get the tank to balance properly so keep that in mind.


Good luck with the build!

Dean

[JPS99]

Hello Joe!

Glad to see you are making progress, I am always surprised when I see someone who decides to take on this project despite the number of parts!
All of my parts were made FDM on my makergear M2, with the exception of the tracks, done on a pair of Flashforge Dreamers.
As for the metal in the springs, I had some engineering samples of coiled spring steel at work that fit into the gap. I wouldn't want to use anything else here, it may not retain its shape. I think you could use any spring steel that will fit in there that you can get your hands on. ( maybe inside an old tape measure?)
I had to double up the springs at the rear to get the tank to balance properly so keep that in mind.


Good luck with the build!

Dean

Thanks Dean, I've asked that question about the metal for the springs several times, so please disregard it in my other posts. I will see what I can find.. I wonder if the old strapping steel that I remember seeing on heavy packages and crates would work?  I also had the idea of measuring tape steel, but it didn't really seem sturdy enough, but maybe it was too cheap a measuring tape. I'll look at some better quality ones.

Thanks for herding me in the right direction.
Regards,
Joe

Thanks f

[Dean Rauch]

Joe,
I should clarify, I dont mean the metal used in the actual numbered tape to use a spring, I mean the coil spring inside the tape measure used to retract the tape.
Thats the closest thing i can think of to what I used, any type of metal that isnt actual spring steel wont work. I know because I tried the metal strapping too

[LukeZ]

In his other thread Joe mentioned the video of Dean's tank but when I went to look for it I never saw it posted anywhere. Here it is for those who are curious to see it in action!

[JPS99]

Joe,
I should clarify, I dont mean the metal used in the actual numbered tape to use a spring, I mean the coil spring inside the tape measure used to retract the tape.
Thats the closest thing i can think of to what I used, any type of metal that isnt actual spring steel wont work. I know because I tried the metal strapping too

Ah, that makes more sense! I didn't think of using the tape return spring. I'll have to look into that possibility.  I also have some compression springs ordered that could be 'plan b'. I see Ilgar Ismailov, the fellow building the T-35 from your files (and casting the parts??!!) had at least one bogey on each side of his T-35 using coil springs. I'm not sure why he only did one per side, but I'll have to get the springs in my hand before I can determine their usability.

Anyway, thanks for the clarification.
Cheers,
Joe

[Hoover]

Hi Dean, started making your T35 about a month ago and have around 60% done. Trying to work out what gears go where at the moment and if any bearings are used lol

[JPS99]

Hi Dean, started making your T35 about a month ago and have around 60% done. Trying to work out what gears go where at the moment and if any bearings are used lol

Dean doesn't seem to appear much on this board lately. 

I'm building the T-35 too. If you are using the Krasi50 Gearbox you will need a dozen 10 X 5 X 4 mm bearings for the 5mm shafts the gears ride on.  The output shaft will require  four 12 X 8 X 4 mm bearings.  You'll also need 5mm rod, as stated and 8 mm tubing for the output shaft. Krasi included some printed shafts as guides to what the output shafts should look like as they are flattened to firmly mount the drive gear and the track geared wheels.
I also found that the 8mm bearings were not retained well in the gearbox case so you'll either need to cobble up some retainers or, what I did was to hack the case so that the    middle wall is twice as thick where the double bearings mount back-to-back.

You should also notice that the Krasi50 gearbox has a couple of STL files that appear to make no sense for a gearbox. They are his method of mounting coil springs instead of the leafs that Dean used.  Look for DaempferOben.jpg and DaempferUnten.jpg in the images section.

Good luck,
joe