[LukeZ]

Hi Wibbly, I'm glad you persevered. Yes, the Micro will work with Flash v1 (as will even the Mini), you just don't get as many features.

It's funny, but from your most recent screenshots I don't see how you've done anything different than what was in the Wiki, or for that matter, what you appeared to have been doing earlier this week. You mention the "engine startup sound glitch" but I'm not sure if I know what that was or if you resolved it.

Do you know what it was exactly that was preventing the Micro from working before, that you have since changed? It would be good to know.

[NS-21]

The boards arrived, it remains to wait for the arrival of the necessary radio elements and nodes.

[Wibbly]

The only changes I made were to which slot the main gun sound was in. The only way that I got it to work was by having one sound in that slot. Anything in slot 2 just repeats as soon as the power is switched on.

The gun sound will only operate if the left stick is about 1mm to the left of centre at the top, otherwise i just get the flash and recoil. I don't know if this is due to the Prop settings in diagnostics, it seemed to work ok when I tested the mini. The v1 won't allow uploads of settings, the v3+ allows Luke's files to be uploaded.

I am happy with it as it is, and may build another system as I have a Leopard 2A6 sat on the shelf, as well as an M41 Gorilla, neither of which have control boards fitted. The motor control is as smooth as silk.

[LukeZ]

From all your previous screen shots it looks to me like you had the cannon sound assigned to position 1 of the 2nd Coder column in TBS Flash, which is correct.

What it almost looks to me like is that the change that fixed it is was this earlier suggestion:

Hi Wibbly, you have the Prop2 Type set to "2nd Coder 2-Key" but it should be "Function 1/2". I know, they look similar, but do very different things.

Only in your most recent screen shot do I see this now assigned correctly. The incorrect setting there certainly could have caused your machine gun sound to repeat incessantly.

The gun sound will only operate if the left stick is about 1mm to the left of centre at the top, otherwise i just get the flash and recoil. I don't know if this is due to the Prop settings in diagnostics, it seemed to work ok when I tested the mini. The v1 won't allow uploads of settings, the v3+ allows Luke's files to be uploaded.

This sounds strange, theoretically if the flash and recoil are going then the signal is also being sent to the Micro, moving the stick over a bit won't change that signal at all. So no in this case it is not an issue with the Benedini Prop settings and anyway those settings are mostly for Prop3 which we aren't using on the Micro anyway.

You could try moving those various cannon fire functions off the turret stick and assigning them to a switch on your transmitter and seeing if the problem goes away. Although the behavior you describe shouldn't happen, I also don't think the turret stick is really an ideal trigger source if you can avoid it.

[LukeZ]

The boards arrived, it remains to wait for the arrival of the necessary radio elements and nodes.

I like the black! And we will be waiting patiently to see your experiment progress.

[NS-21]

The boards arrived, it remains to wait for the arrival of the necessary radio elements and nodes.

I like the black! And we will be waiting patiently to see your experiment progress.

LukeZ!

Thank you very much for your work in creating all your projects!
I consider them the best solution, with awesome support!
As soon as all the components are delivered and I will assemble the minimum configuration, I want to make a separate topic where I will describe all my first experience in mastering from the first steps - manufacturing.
I would be grateful if you transfer my messages there.

Further setup and more.
I think it will be correct for a separate topic to appear, and someone could repeat my steps.
I’m going to separately post after successful experiments of the initial configuration (only TСB board and drivers) all the files and the operating time of my version of the board and configuration profiles.

I am building your project, with my changes, for my first tank, I have a base HL M26.

I don’t have any experience before in building tanks, the basic electronics of HL tanks have very few features and functions.

P.S. I did not expect PCBs to look so good, this was my first experience with such an order. But I already found the shortcomings of my design, for example, the holes for the pin panels are very large.
It will be necessary to pay more attention to the study of the nuances of designing printed circuit boards.

[Wibbly]

Hi Luke

You could try moving those various cannon fire functions off the turret stick and assigning them to a switch on your transmitter and seeing if the problem goes away. Although the behavior you describe shouldn't happen, I also don't think the turret stick is really an ideal trigger source if you can avoid it.

I had exactly the same thought. There is a spring loaded trainer switch on the tx, I am going to transfer the functions there and everything should fall into synch. The only reason I hadn't done it when I started the project was because I had freshly installed ER9X firmware and didn't have a clue how to use it. I have since figured it out.

[LukeZ]

As soon as all the components are delivered and I will assemble the minimum configuration, I want to make a separate topic where I will describe all my first experience in mastering from the first steps - manufacturing.
I would be grateful if you transfer my messages there.

I agree, a new thread dedicated to your project will be a good idea. It might be difficult to extract your messages and their replies from this thread but hopefully you can just give an introduction of what has already happened and then continue from there. Feel free to start a new thread in this forum (TCB Dev) whenever you are ready.

P.S. I did not expect PCBs to look so good, this was my first experience with such an order. But I already found the shortcomings of my design, for example, the holes for the pin panels are very large.
It will be necessary to pay more attention to the study of the nuances of designing printed circuit boards.

In my experience no matter how careful I am in the design stage, there is something about holding a physical board in my hands (as opposed to looking at it on the computer screen) that makes clear all kinds of things that should be done differently!

[NS-21]

It remains to wait a bit.

Not all lots have arrived.

I will say that this is an exciting lesson and quest!

[Alexk]

After sitting on it for almost a year I have also finally sent my arduino mega open panzer tcb shield and received them today.
they are for the standard arduino mega instead of the mini which resulted in most ports being clustered in the middle.

[LukeZ]

Both designs look very interesting in their own unique way. I guess you both will have some reflow soldering in your future, I'll be interested to hear how you find it, but in my experience it is not too difficult with the right equipment (which can be inexpensive) and much easier than trying to solder very small components by hand.

[NS-21]

Hi LukeZ!

Reflow soldering paste at home "on the knee" does not seem to me anything complicated.

The simplest is a kitchen stove with temperature control such as REX-C100 + glass.

I also have a soldering hair dryer.

Today I received Arduino Pro MEGA2560, and decided to play around, try out OP Config while the rest of the radio elements are traveling.

I managed to flash, judging by the OP Config logs.

But when I try to connect to OP Config, the port is selected correctly, I tried all the speeds - there is no connection.

I have two options, what is the problem, one is correct one is not.

1. I use Arduino Pro MEGA2560 embedded version from Robotdyn, their bootloader is not correct. It is necessary to reflash.

2. OP Config only works through Bluetooth.

[LukeZ]

Did you remember to set Arduino pin A12 to ground? That pin will tell the TCB firmware to communicate over USB instead of the alternate serial port. You don't need bluetooth but you do need to set that pin to ground. It is also a good idea to set pin 33 to ground as well (this tells the firmware that you are a fighting tank instead of a repair tank and will help you avoid some troubleshooting problems like why is the cannon not firing?)

[NS-21]

Here I am a stupid military moron!

As in that proverb - the elephant did not notice!

Sprinkle my head with ashes and go read FAQ!

Shame on me.

[LukeZ]

Ha ha, it happens to all of us, don't worry!