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« Last post by jhamm on May 31, 2022, 03:13:29 PM »
Hello,
It is known that the FrSky XJT and the X8R have a near field problem.
You can have the receiver flashed with the new UNI firmware at Engel Modellbau, then the near field problem is solved.
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« Last post by LukeZ on May 31, 2022, 09:53:12 AM »
It's true, I have observed as well that certain transmitter/receiver combinations do not like to be too close, and when they are there can be connection issues. Thankfully that one at least is a very easy fix!
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« Last post by NS-21 on May 30, 2022, 08:09:07 PM »
This happens to me if I bring the transmitter less than 150mm closer to the receiver connected to the TCB. I am using an XJT FrSKY 2.4 transmitter module and an X8R receiver module. Hardware -Turnigy 9X, flashed to ER9X V1.743- Mike  This usually happens when I test my own versions, based on the work and experience of the respected LukeZ, when I use my radio equipment. I just do it from a distance. P.S. About my radio transmitter and its software:  [/url]
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« Last post by LukeZ on May 30, 2022, 05:27:49 PM »
Flashing red and green alternately rapidly is indeed loss of radio signal. It also typically occurs for a few seconds when you first boot the board, not because the radio signal has been "lost" but simply because it hasn't yet been acquired. This flashing has no pre-determined length of time, it lasts for as long as the radio signal is not detected. After the radio signal is acquired I don't know that I would typically expect any kind of flashing, even slower. When you are connected to the computer the green LED will blink slowly but the red LED remains on. One or the other will blink slowly if you are turning in one direction or the other, but they shouldn't be alternating unless you are turning back and forth quickly or there is some kind of glitch in the radio signal. You can see the full list of LED behavior here. If you are having an issue maybe you can describe more what's happening and we can try to figure it out.
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« Last post by thegreen on May 30, 2022, 04:39:05 PM »
Hi,
If the red and green led flash alternately and rapidly for 2 second and after slowly flashing is it a radio lost signal?
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« Last post by LukeZ on May 19, 2022, 06:37:13 AM »
Hi NS, yes a 10uF tantalum would work fine, in fact it is mentioned in the datasheet for the voltage regulator I use. If you use a different voltage regulator then you can check its datasheet for recommendations, but usually a tantalum will be fine.
An SMD-D will take up more space so it will not fit on the original board, but if you are making a new design then it doesn't matter.
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« Last post by NS-21 on May 18, 2022, 06:14:56 PM »
LukeZ, and what about tantalum capacitors in a plastic case? Can they be applied? (naturally equivalent in characteristics). For example 100*25V in SMD-D case? Used battery - Li-polymer 11.1V I don’t like the capacitors that are in the original board model, or rather, I don’t like their soldering (the appearance is spoiled by a hot air soldering iron, as well as poor-quality soldering, since I don’t have a heated table), and I haven’t made a stove yet, or rather, no one has thrown away the kitchen a stove that can be converted for my projects.
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« Last post by skb6666 on May 18, 2022, 12:48:25 AM »
Hi,
Thanks for the help. Will be glad to get them finished so I can fit into my models.
Steve
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« Last post by LukeZ on May 17, 2022, 04:15:50 PM »
Hi Steve, Jürgen is right, this is a pretty standard part and many manufacturers would make an equivalent. I recall you're in the UK. I believe this one should work, available from Farnell UK, but they have others as well: Panasonic EEEHB1V100R
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« Last post by jhamm on May 17, 2022, 01:47:22 PM »
Hi Steve,
search for an electrolytic capacitor with the same data.
There are enough manufacturers who have something suitable on offer.
It doesn't have to be Panasonic.
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