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Messages - Lotuswins
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76
« on: April 20, 2019, 11:05:31 AM »
77
« on: April 20, 2019, 10:53:58 AM »
Adding an enable/disable toggle option for IR would really be awesome. If, while you are in there, it could have a visual feedback to the operator via the flash LED it would help establish the state of the tank......three flashes it is enabled, a long one it is disabled....or something like that? Most of my tanks with the TCB still only have 7 channels used:
Channel 5: airsoft enable/disable
Channel 6: machine gun toggle
Channel 7: Volume control either mapped to a servo driven pot (Taigen board) or a 3 position switch (benedini)
Channel 8: open for use mostly.....
I only have one tank using 9 channels, a T55A (tiran 4 colors), which has all those lights working and the machine gun cupola rotates via a servo. Its the most animated tank so far.
Though, actually, most do now have the XJT module xmtr, with XSR receivers and 16 channels......so channels aren't a problem.....but a switch to throw mechanically would be a good option for those that don't have an available channel.
I have a switch available on my xmtrs too, ON2 isn't being used, which is half of the three position switch just right of center above the right stick.....up is to turn the tank on, and down used to turn on inertia but I haven't that enabled anywhere anymore.
So I won't do anything on the Panther until you are able to maybe get something going so it can be tested, since it seems to be a good test bed.
Thanks so much for the help/support!!!
jerry
78
« on: April 19, 2019, 08:30:41 PM »
I tried putting a 1.5M resistor from 5vdc to the signal at the mushroom base (the signal apparently is high until triggered, according to my fluke), no joy....then to negative, still no joy. The good news is when I plug a mushroom into the base, I can't get it to trigger the hit. Nice to have something that is repeatable. I'll try the shielded cable next, if I can find a flexible one, the one I do have has a stiff sheath, and is 4 conductor. I thought of just having a dummy mushroom, with just a single IR receiver but the hatch is too close to the base for that to work. How about just shorting the +5vdc to the signal wire....keeping it high until a mushroom is substituted in place of the shorting lead?
79
« on: April 19, 2019, 04:50:50 PM »
Hi Luke,
Thanks for the details, that really helps. The snoop readout for the Panther is after I removed the slip ring, so the simple Tamiya 2 shot code makes a lot of sense. Those little motors can spike up to 1 amp when being reversed (hooked up my Fluke to a spare), with no load.
Both the SU152 and Panther have the wires for the IR mushroom run all the way to the top of the tank. I'd rather not turn of the IR, but would it be prudent to put a high value resistor from the signal to ground at the hull connector? Say a meg or so to shunt any weak, noise signal?
Thanks for all the help!!
PS, any truth to the rumor there may be another manufacturer looking into making the TCB?
Jerry
80
« on: April 19, 2019, 01:42:51 PM »
Okay, so the Panther isn't done with me, apparently its mad and is taking out revenge.
While driving the thing around, moving the turret as well as moving, I get a 'hit' and health goes to 50%. Then, repeating the same, the tank gets destroyed. Hmmm....
So I put it on the bench connected to Snoop, and after starting the tank, stopping the smoker I move fwd, then rev, then rotate the turret...here is the snap shot:
Radio Ready - SBus
---------------------------------------------
FIRMWARE VERSION: 0.93.46
---------------------------------------------
RADIO INFO - SBus
---------------------------------------------
Stick Min Center Max Deadband Reversed
---------------------------------------------
Throttle 988 1500 2012 25 FALSE
Turn 989 1501 2012 25 FALSE
Elevation 1024 1500 1977 25 FALSE
Azimuth 1024 1500 1977 25 FALSE
Aux Chan. Min Max Type
---------------------------------------------
1 988 2012 Digital
2 988 2012 Digital
3 988 2013 Analog
4 1500 1501 Digital
5 880 1500 Analog
6 880 1500 Analog
7 880 1500 Analog
8 880 1500 Analog
9 880 1500 Analog
10 880 1500 Analog
11 880 1500 Analog
12 880 1500 Analog
---------------------------------------------
Channels detected: 16
Channels utilized: 16
---------------------------------------------
MOTOR TYPES
---------------------------------------------
Drive Motors: Sabertooth Serial
Turret Rotation: Onboard Motor Driver (A)
Barrel Elevation: Onboard Motor Driver (B)
Mechanical Barrel: Airsoft (Disabled)
---------------------------------------------
DRIVE SETTINGS
---------------------------------------------
Vehicle Type: Tank
Active Driving Profile: 1
Accel Ramp Enabled: No
Decel Ramp Enabled: No
Motor Nudge Enabled: No
Forward Speed Limited: No
Reverse Speed Limited: Yes - 50%
Transmission Type: Automatic
Shift Time: 0.0 sec
Engine Pause Time: 0.0 sec
Transmission Delay: 0.0 sec
Neutral Turn Allowed: No
Turn Mode: 2
Track Recoil Enabled: Yes (Kickback speed 40%, Deceleration factor 30)
---------------------------------------------
TURRET SETTINGS
---------------------------------------------
Turret Rotation Speed Limited: No
Barrel Elevation Speed Limited: No
Recoil delay: No
---------------------------------------------
BATTLE INFO
---------------------------------------------
Is Repair Tank? No
Fire Protocol: Tamiya
Hit Protocol 2: Taigen V1
Repaired by: IBU Repair
Send MG IR Code: No
Accept MG Damage: No
Damage Profile: Tamiya Spec
Weight Class: Medium
(6 cannon hits, 5.0 sec reload, 12.0 sec recovery)
---------------------------------------------
SOUND CARD
---------------------------------------------
Sound card: Taigen Sound Card
---------------------------------------------
FUNCTION TRIGGERS
---------------------------------------------
Turret stick functions: Yes
Turret movement delay: 0.35 sec
Turret Stick - Top Left -> Function #1 - Engine - Toggle On/Off
Turret Stick - Top Right -> Function #7 - Cannon Fire
Turret Stick - Bottom Right -> Function #16 - Light 1 (Headlights) - Toggle On/Off
Turret Stick - Bottom Left -> Function #84 - Smoker - Toggle
Aux Channel 2 - Pos 2 (of 2) -> Function #11 - Machine Gun - Fire
Aux Channel 2 - Pos 1 (of 2) -> Function #12 - Machine Gun - Stop
Aux Channel 3 - Variable -> Function #56 - RC Output 2 - Pass-through
Aux Channel 1 - Pos 2 (of 2) -> Function #13 - Airsoft/Mech Recoil - Enable
Aux Channel 1 - Pos 1 (of 2) -> Function #14 - Airsoft/Mech Recoil - Disable
---------------------------------------------
BATTERY
---------------------------------------------
Battery Detected: Yes
Voltage: 5.15v
LVC Enabled: Yes (6.3v cutoff)
---------------------------------------------
BAUD RATES
---------------------------------------------
USB Serial Baud: 115200
Motor Serial Baud: 38400
Aux Serial Baud: 115200
Serial 3 Tx Baud: 38400
---------------------------------------------
MG Stop
Airsoft - Disabled
LVC threshold reached! (6.3v)
LVC Exit - Voltage Restored
Turn Engine On
Engage Transmission
Smoker disabled
Moving Forward
Stopped
Moving Reverse
Stopped
CANNON HIT! (Tamiya 2-Shot)
Health Level: 50%
CANNON HIT! (Tamiya 2-Shot)
Health Level: 0%
TANK DESTROYED
Turn Engine Off
Turn Engine On
Engage Transmission
TANK RESTORED
Thoughts??
81
« on: April 18, 2019, 10:49:14 PM »
So curiosity got the better of me on the slip rings.....looks like ring 3 & 4 are almost/are touching....
Major light duty to run a motor, two brass 'hairs' per slip ring.
82
« on: April 18, 2019, 08:45:59 PM »
Hi Luke,
So I ran the SU-152 around for 10 minutes w/o smoker....no repeat occurrence, then turned on the smoker and after a full 4 minutes or so it finally recorded a hit. Then the next day, I tried again and it wouldn't occur....
So I moved on to my Panther, which was acting up with the gun elevation motor. I would get varied issues by running this motor, including: hit, transmission off, transmission engaged, cannon fire, servo for volume pot would constantly chatter.....weird. And very repeatable, fortunately. It didn't do it with the rotation motor, nor smoker, so far.
First I thought it was the motor, so I removed it and cleaned the commutator and brushes, then reassembled it all, and bingo....nothing. Then I replaced the motor, nothing. Still had all the previous issues. So I hooked it up to Snoop and got: Cannon Hit (Tamiya 2 shot), Health level 50%, Turn Engine On, engage Transmission, Turn Engine Off, RADIO FAILSAFE, Radio Ready PPM, MG Stop, Airsoft-Disable..... quite active?
Second I thought perhaps interaction of the E&M fields with the cable going up to the hull, which is a Taigen 8 pin cable with added wire but twisted and of the small size that they provide on stock tanks. So I replaced all that with larger wire, not twisted. No joy....still had the issue.
So I removed the motor again, and plugged it in right at the TCB, and bingo all was good.....ran it up/down/reverse....all good....hmmmmm.
Then I bypassed the Taigen slipring, which is the largest one available since I have IR and Airsoft in the turret......and only got a single Cannon Hit, once. None since.
So, what do you think? Arcing inside the slipring?? I haven't dissected one before so I'm not familiar with the construction, but clearly it has issues....
So, now back to that SU-152......if it will ever repeat,
Jerry
83
« on: February 22, 2019, 12:43:19 PM »
Hi Luke,
Thanks for the usual prompt reply.
I had another issue, coincidentally with this same chassis/TCB, a while ago. This chassis has the HK 45A ESC's, taigen gearset, FRSKY receiver, and Benedini sound card. So this is really a neat one.
The original smoker on this runs on tank startup. When started, about 50% of the time, the main drive motors would chatter with no throttle input. Once throttle input was on, it would drive okay, but stop it and the drive motors would start chattering again. Turn off the smoker, and the chattering would stop. Very repeatable. So I removed the smoker motor and found the commutator and brushes (if you can call them brushes - thin copper strips) coated in oil. My theory is that since these motors do run at high rpm, the brushes would lift slightly due to the hydraulic wedge created by the oil causing arcing on the comm, evidenced by the black carbon in the oil. The arcing was causing the noise on the smoker circuit power, which in turn, impacted the ESC controls through the PWM connection.
Once I cleaned the commutator and brushes the problem went away.
I will try to recreate the 'hit' sequence on the SU152 to see if I can get it to go again. Unfortunately it so far has been few and far between instances. As a side note the receiver is way up front on this tank, and the smoker is at the rear, just in front of the main drive motors.
thanks again, jerry
84
« on: February 20, 2019, 11:46:21 AM »
Hi Luke,
So I've had a recurring problem with motor noise I believe. What will happen is I'll be driving a tank around, and I'll have the smoker running or elevating the gun, etc., and I will get a 'hit' sound and the drive motor will go into reduced speed just like when in battle and you get hit by another tank via IR.
This morning I got it while driving my almost completed SU152 which has no IR installed as yet, and only the smoker (new Taigen V2 unit) was running.
A couple of questions:
Is there a way to return the TCB to normal status after a hit without having to go to the tank and cycle the power switch?
Are there better ways to filter motor noise from interacting with the TCB other than the normal 0.01uf caps that come installed from the factory? Or possibly a better quality size 130 motor that would not be so susceptible to noise?
I've disassembled several of the small motors, cleaned the comms, and brushes, and put new caps on with some success but not always. Often the little motors will only have a single cap between the brushes, and one brush tied to the motor case, since it is normally isolated from any ground/frame element.
Thanks as always, keep up the great work!!
Jerry
85
« on: December 06, 2018, 09:39:24 PM »
Hi Luke, It works like a treat!! Thanks so much.....jerry
86
« on: November 02, 2018, 04:06:23 PM »
Hi Luke,
Well I started the testing today, with a new Taigen V2 unit (all black if it matters). I measured the resistance across the resistor, 15.4 ohms, having separated the heater from the motor. I then plugged the pump into a stock Taigen V1 board, and connected the heater to the battery, with the booster in series. So, I started out with 7.2 volts on the smoker heater, and started the board up, and all worked fine and the smoke was coming out very nicely. I let it run for awhile, maybe 5 minutes or so until it started to smell a little burnt, so I reduced the voltage to the heater down to 6.5 (lowest the booster would go), and the smoke output diminished but was still putting out a minimum amount. Then I noticed the smoke coming out of the side of the box, from the gasket, and noticed the side of the heater deformed, and soft as was the top of the heater. Oops, melted the darn thing, and upon removing the top of the heater, 1/2 the wick was black and disintegrated.....yikes!!
So apparently 7.2 volts is a bit much for this smoker.....drat. I have a backup I can start testing on again, after I clear the room of smoke. Fortunately its in the garage I'm testing, or I would be in the dog house yet again........
As a side note, I noticed the voltage output from the Taigen board to the smoker (before the booster) would dip down to 5.7 to 6.0 volts when the drive motors would start and run, unloaded yet. The voltage out of the booster though kept a solid 7.2v or whatever you set it at, regardless of the input voltage, which is what I would expect.
I'm beginning to think the TARR smokers may be the way to go if I continue to have overheating issues.....at least I would only have to replace the wick since the thing is all metal.....
jerry
87
« on: November 01, 2018, 08:58:31 PM »
Hi Luke,
Thanks so much for the detailed answer. So, Aux is out, only 5 volts and a limited source, it looks like battery for the heater is the only viable option. This would be good since it will have the better voltage, and not be a pulsed output. I thought of changing the resistor, but I think that is not the best of options. I still like the regulated supply simply to keep the resistor at the optimum temperature to vaporize the smoke fluid. There must be a narrow band where you need to be, not burning the wick, but providing the optimum amount of vapor. The battery voltage will fluctuate as it is drained, from 7.2 down to 6.3 volts, which I would think would put the resistor outside the optimum temperature? I've noticed it on my tanks, as the battery drains the smoker starts to put out less, then finally stop even though the tank is still operational. So I think the general purpose output switching a relay, or even an rc switch, in parallel with the smoker output (mixed in the radio) would also work.
I just ordered some 25mm fans, to make the smoker very small, which may help, but I'll start with stock HL/Taigen units and experiment to see what works best for mine.
Thanks again, Jerry
88
« on: October 30, 2018, 02:11:11 PM »
Hi Luke, Since I'm between model builds, and I read somewhere that a booster for the smoker would help it make more or more consistent smoke, I bought these little things the other day off amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWSV89D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They seem to be able to keep up with the 2.1 amp load of the Taigen smoker, but then wondered actually how to incorporate one into the TCB smoker output. Since it is a pulsed output to the smoker (right?), the regulator on the booster would probably not like it? So perhaps the way to go is to separate the heater from the pump motor, and connect it to the AUX output with the booster in series? Then adjust the booster output until steady smoke appears, and the pump would be regulated by the smoker output? Think this is the way to go?? This should help with smoker output regardless of battery voltage. Am I on to something or is this just wishful thinking? Both smoker and Aux would be toggled from the same function. Jerry
89
« on: October 26, 2018, 02:32:59 PM »
Hi Luke, thanks for the reply. If I could somehow edit the folder location in the Details section of the OP Config shortcut, that would be ideal....but I cannot seem to be able to do it? I'm not too windows literate!! jerry
90
« on: October 24, 2018, 04:32:03 PM »
Hi again Luke,
Sorry for the bother, but I just updated the OP Config, and now it doesn't take me to where my files are stored (Programfiles (x86)>Openpanzer>OPConfig), but instead goes directly to Desktop? How can we set the default location so we don't have to track down the file location each time? The earlier version would take me right there each time.
Thanks, Jerry
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