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Messages - Lotuswins
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16
« on: May 11, 2020, 05:12:04 PM »
.stl files for those who might be interested.... Jerry Note: Cost is $3 for servo from HK, and $6 for the pot from IMEX/Taigen, other than the hardware and new 3D printer....  j
17
« on: May 11, 2020, 04:48:59 PM »
So I've been making remote volume control for some time, using a cheap servo and the stock potentiometer for HL or Taigen. Unfortunately this in line configuration doesn't give full rotation, the pot having a 270 degree sweep, and the servo only giving 120 degrees. Enter a newly given 3D printer for my birthday, and having learned a little CAD on Fusion360, and finding an insert into the program to do spur gears, I've assembled this configuration which gives full travel:
The long M3 screws are 25mm long, you have to drill the gears to fit the pot and servo splined shafts, but be careful as you don't want to drill all the way through. When assembling, plug both the servo and the pot into the tank, and turn the pot clockwise until the volume just goes to zero, and using the transmitter turn the servo counter clockwise all the way and then pop the large gear onto the servo. Test to ensure it travels smoothly all the way to both stops. The cover keeps you from jamming any wires into the gears.
It fits rather well into a crook or cranny in the tank pretty easily.
I'll load the .stl files next post.
Jerry
18
« on: April 29, 2020, 12:40:28 PM »
Hi Luke,
Thanks for answering. My shield does not use the 5v output from the Arduino reg, but the digital pins do output a 5v signal, so too many outputs for the little reg they installed? However unlikely that is, I did rob an old reg chip off a parts arduino and both new ones are now working fine (it is an 800ma output also), so as you surmised, it is probably the chinese made issue.
Oh well, I've ordered from another source so we will see if they will be more reliable. I have two Robotdyn ones functioning okay, from older manufacture, and these two new ones failed in one week.....only discernible difference (to my humble observation skills) are the 5v reg stampings.
Jerry
19
« on: April 29, 2020, 12:19:22 PM »
AK,
I assume your answer is that you did a continuity check and it was okay?
Okay, looking at your radio details, aux 4 has a low of 1500 and high of 2011. That seems odd. Try resetting all your radio inputs so that you get 988 to 2011 for their range. It could be the radio input is telling the TCB to fire continually.
Another thought is to raise your deadband on channel 4, it may be just on the edge. I've had that happen on my turret settings, kept getting the sound continually or intermittently.
FWIW, Jerry
20
« on: April 24, 2020, 01:35:01 PM »
Hi Luke, I hope COVID19 isn't impacting your life too much. Being retired, it is only the stay at home that is tiresome, but then I do modeling a lot and I just got a Prusa Mini in the mail which is keeping me occupied  So I am still chipping away at the Arduino shield, and got my first set back from OSH. I had worked a few more days on the board layout and finally rearranged it down enough to get it onto a two layer board. That was a chore!! I found four errors on the OSH boards after initial testing, and have those corrected so I sent version 2 off to Seed since they have thicker boards (the 30 mill OSH ones are nice, but prying off the arduino really stresses them) and I can get 10 boards for almost the same price ($49). Once I have those tested I can share it all. So the reason for my post is the Robotdyn Mega2560Pro auduino boards I have been using seem to now have a defect. The ones prior have all worked, as long as you get the right one as was brought up earlier, but now apparently they have changed the 5v on board regulator to a more recent version and on both boards I just received, the regulator has failed. One on initial power up, and the 2nd after a few days of testing. Details on the 5v regulator: Earlier boards that work fine: AMS1117 5.0 H904LP These, faulty boards: AMS1117 5.0 GMIC 1938 I don't know if these are clone chips or not. Anyways, I replaced the regs on both and they are now working. So my question is: Does anyone know of another source of the Arduino Mega2560Pro other than Robotdyn that can be flashed okay by OPConfig?? thanks, Jerry
21
« on: April 24, 2020, 01:06:12 PM »
I don't have any experience with the Tamiya, but had a Hooben T55A recoil unit in their early version of the Tank, which I believe was a clone.
Check the wiring, those pesky JST connectors can push out and not be obvious that no connection is being made. I assume you have a multimeter to see if you have continuity when the switch is closed and none in the open position at the board? Double check configuration at the JST connection?
Jerry
22
« on: March 31, 2020, 04:44:05 PM »
Hi Luke,
I'm turning my attention to the sound card now, since I have my FatFingerTCB at OSH for prototype trial, and am wondering if it is possible for us fat fingered folks to solder the micro SD socket on the board by hand? If not too easy, then is there an alternative??
Thanks, Jerry
23
« on: March 29, 2020, 10:50:33 PM »
Thanks Johnny, Ah Preciate it!! Jerry
24
« on: March 03, 2020, 01:10:33 PM »
Hi Johnny,
I just downloaded Fusion 360, as part of doing a TCB arduino shield in Eagle, so I can now modify the STEP or Parasolid files you offered, would you still be willing to post them?
I'm working on upgrading my T55A to a TCB from a Clark TK22, and a smaller speaker would work much better. I also have to fit some HK45A ESCs into the space. So modifying something would be much better than starting from scratch? I'm ordering a Benedini Mini, to give it some sound presence too.
Thanks again, Jerry
25
« on: March 01, 2020, 09:25:36 PM »
Hi Luke,
Well, thanks again for the tip again with Fusion360. It wouldn't load on my laptop so I installed it on my gaming computer and in the end (very confusing) I eventually got the lower price for Eagle. Then figuring out how to enable more layers took a bit too, but finally got that going. I couldn't do it in two layers, since the through wire components are so large, so I added 2 more and got all the signals into the inner layers (or most). It took a while even then to get them all routed. So it all checks out, and I did the B/M today but on excel instead of in the Eagle system (talk about time consuming). I also got the quote for the board in the on board system at $333 which I thought way too much. But OSH Park said $10 per sq. in.($80 total) for 3 boards, which is more manageable, so I have yet to do the Gerber files.
Anyways, chipping away at this.....Jerry
26
« on: February 24, 2020, 02:46:43 PM »
Thank you Luke, I went straight to Eagle, which is where I got the $60 price, I'll try the other route to see if it is different if I cannot get the 2 layer model to work. $16 is a lot better. Only 2 layers?? Hmmm, I could have sworn!! I'll swap around the components, now that I think of it I can arrange the grounds for the interposing transistors into a central strip down the middle of the Arduino connections, and align them better, closer to their end connections. Should make it more rout-able, Yes, I did use the auto router, it would take 10 minutes, and overheated my laptop a few times so I had to blow out the dust to get it to finish the calculation.....HA!! And using polygons is new to me, I'll give it a try to see how that goes too. I'm enjoying discovering new things like this, hopefully I can get it to work. Not having access to a HK product has given me a reason to proceed, otherwise I'd be bored....  Thanks again, Jerry
27
« on: February 22, 2020, 04:09:42 PM »
Hi Luke,
Here are my drawings in zip format.
Thanks, Jerry
28
« on: February 22, 2020, 04:00:21 PM »
Hi Luke,
So I've built my second 'Homebuilt TCB', now:
But it takes me a week or so to do all the wiring, testing, etc. Which could be saved by manufacturing a board. So I've been working on Eagle for the past few days and have gotten the schematic changed to remove all that I hadn't needed in the past, and made a board image as the program does. Unfortunately Eagle only gives a top and bottom layer in the free version. This apparently isn't enough for my schematic, even with the changes. Also, I'm concerned with the size of the current pathways being too small for certain of the circuits (smoker in particular).
I am considering renting the full version ($60/mo.), but I want to ensure I can get it done, produced, and tested before the subscription runs out. Would you know what additional information I will need for the additional layers? Like pathway sizes, ground planes, via sizes?? I'm new to all this, so if you have any tips, they are most welcome.
Jerry
PS: I'll try and .zip up the schematic and board (with only the airwires) for comment also.
29
« on: February 05, 2020, 02:30:07 PM »
Hi Luke,
Well, that was painful!! I replaced the transistor in question, and well, still no go. So on to more troubleshooting which yielded a 27 ohm resistance to positive.....turned out a cold solder joint to the 5v bus....
Its all back working now, thanks for the help.....I must have jostled things when testing and the source voltage failed to provide a good pulse to the flash card.
30
« on: February 05, 2020, 12:24:03 PM »
Hi Luke,
Yes, that is the newer flash unit using LEDs instead of a neon (HV) bulb. It performs quite well actually, and I was able to fit the LEDs and a 3mm IR emitter in tandem inside my IS3 barrel. We'll see how it works, once I get the tank up and fully functional.
So on your recommendations, I tested the different resistors to the BC327 transistor on my test rig (I love this breadboard thing...I've been able to test a number of things on it, and with very minimal setup).
Here are the results:
Resistor Unloaded Vm Loaded Vm Flash (Y/N)
1k 2.85vdc 3.08vdc YYY
562 3.25vdc 2.6vdc YYY
380 3.31vdc 2.4vdc YYY
270 3.34vdc 2.7vdc YYY
Voltage is from Digital Fluke 115 with Max capture set on, on VDC scale. Note all triggers flashed, indicating the transistor in the tank is obviously blown. I perhaps damaged the junction when soldering?? It was working previously. The strongest trigger is with the 1k resistor. Captured voltages are not peak values so they are relative. I guess I'll replace the transistor (ugh, its a tight mess of wires), and see if it will last.
Yes, I checked the output of the ATmega, and it is at 5vdc and drops on the triggering of the cannon.
Thanks for the insight on the function, I'll let you know the results....Jerry
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