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Messages - Lotuswins
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136
« on: February 16, 2018, 04:15:51 PM »
Thank you Luke, I have already signed up, so only a couple of weeks? I'll definitely wait then.....jerry
137
« on: February 15, 2018, 01:37:41 PM »
Hi Luke,
I would like to use bluetooth, but it seems the ez-link the tcb supports isn’t available, is there other options? Or do you have a source?
Thanks, Jerry
138
« on: January 20, 2018, 09:07:53 PM »
Hi jhamm,
I didn't even consider modding the suspension to enable a better turn, brilliant!! Thanks for the suggestion, I'll store that away for future use since the Panther is now turning. The last time I tried to 'tune' a torsion bar though, I broke the darn thing.....8^). I can visualize where concentrating the load of the tank in the center will alter the moment of friction (new 'tanker' term?), reducing the force needed to rotate the chassis.
thanks, jerry
139
« on: January 19, 2018, 02:13:52 PM »
Hi Luke,
I thought I'd share some thoughts on the sabertooth 2 x 12 Motor Controller since I now have the tank working well.
So the tank I have the TCB installed in is a Taigen Panther which I purchased in kit form, with 4:1 gearboxes, 390 motors, etc. The wheels are ball bearing with no rubber on the circumference. The gearboxes have bushings, except on the output shafts have ball bearings. Idler is ball bearing also. The tracks are really smooth in running, no stiffness in the pins.
When I first put the tank together I had a IBU2U installed, but the tank would not turn well, especially on carpet. To do a sharp turn I would have to stop completely so static friction would take effect and help it turn. Not good if you are trying to battle, or just drive it around. Since I was having other issues with the IBU2U, and since I got a new 2x12 controller for Xmas, I decided to swap out to the TCB. After rearranging the internals of the tank to fit the 2x12 three times, I finally got it all to fit inside the tank without the slipring trying to pull the smoker plug off the TCB when I rotated the turret. Don't get me wrong, the Panther does have a lot of room inside, but the sabertooth 2x12 has large heat sinks to deal with which made things awkward. I even put a shield between the TCB and the underside of the turret so it could no longer catch up on any wiring, etc.
Upon driving the tank, it was really transformed. No more motor whine. It will crawl much slower even than the IBU2U/IBU2. And it now turns.
I think the turning is due to the regenerative braking that the sabertooth has, since if traveling at full speed the nose will actually dive a little when stopping, and it stops fairly quickly whereas with the IBU2 it would kind of coast (built in inertia).
Just thought I'd share some impressions on the controller hooked to the TCB. Thanks again for all those involved with the TCB, it is really awesome.
Jerry
140
« on: January 13, 2018, 11:21:44 AM »
Belay my last. Apparently the sabertooth is self protected from overcurrent which explains why they cost what they do besides all the control options. Very nice kit.
141
« on: January 13, 2018, 10:40:43 AM »
Hi Luke,
I hooked my Fluke in series with one motor on the bench and at light load (just tracks running) its almost an amp, moderate load is 3 amps, and locked rotor roughly 9.5 amps. So the 2 x 5 will work I think, but I am sure glad I got the 2 x 12 for the panther since it has the larger motors, tracks, and is much heavier. I guess it wouldn’t hurt to fuse the motors to save the controller if a track gets stuck since locked rotor is so close to max peak capacity.
Jerry
142
« on: January 09, 2018, 10:52:02 PM »
Hi Luke,
Thanks for the update on the blinking apple, I think it is really nice when you don't have to guess when the reload is done.
And thanks for the tips on the er9x and the module to get 16 channels, that could come in handy some day. Since I've got 4 of these transmitters (one for each country and a spare) I should be able to flash er9x to the spare to get used to it before converting everything over. And the loss of all those PWM cables would be nice in the panther, but the modules are pricey (more than the radio), but perhaps there will be a sale?
I didn't realize the NiMH batteries had such a flat discharge voltage, so I just upped the voltage to 6.3 to see how that works. I'm running a 2000mah unit from Taigen in the Panther that came with my Sherman M4-76mm tank, so its not really a star battery since it only takes around 1200 mah in charge. I'll have to go get a larger one for this tank since I'm running the long motors and the tank is the taigen metal version.
I'm currently putting my second Hooben T55A together, this time with the metal gearboxes, and wondering if the 5 amp sabertooth would be okay in this one? It has the stock motors, 53:1 gearboxes, aluminum stiffener plate the length of the tank, metal tracks/sprockets/idlers, but otherwise stock. Not a heavy tank but my other one which had the Tamiya clone gearboxes, same ratio, would not creep well with the ClarkTK22 control board (very erratic at slow speed). I tried it with the IBU2U, and that was better, but no way as smooth as this panther and the TCB. I finally added 100:1 Taigen modified gearboxes to the first T55A and that seems to cure things, but top speed is a bit slow for a modern tank. Anyway, just curious if you have any thoughts on this one.
Thanks again for all the help, and I'll let you know if I come across any fixes that work on the switch position issue on startup.
Jerry
143
« on: January 09, 2018, 04:57:56 PM »
Hi again Luke,
So I ran the battery down again, and this time it all worked as you said. The tank started bucking, like a car running out of gas, and then all the lights started blinking, which slowly diminished to nothing.....very nice.
Just verifying....Jerry
144
« on: January 09, 2018, 12:49:15 PM »
Hi Luke,
I tried changing the order of the functions but that didn't help. So, here is my .opz file for your perusal, perhaps something will stand out.
I'm using Tanker9x firmware on my 9x, with the original module/receiver (RF9Xv2/9X8Cv2) with the PWM/PMM converter by HK. All 8 channel wires go into the converter, and only one is a pass thru, the volume servo/pot I have made, which is on channel 7.
If you look at Page 12 on the IBU2 manual, it shows the flash meanings....so I'm not that bright to think of something new.....but thanks for the thought. Interesting about the low voltage flashes, as when my NiMH battery went low, the tank just stopped working. That is it would stop, and when I tried to restart it would for a second or two, but then just quit again. I'll see if I can't repeat the performance to ensure I got it right. I've set the voltage at 6.1 volts for the cutoff....a little low for LiPo but since I've been using NiMH mostly lately, it is a little conservative.
Thanks, Jerry
145
« on: January 08, 2018, 07:50:28 PM »
Hi Luke,
Okay, I tried unchecking the debug box, and no joy. The switch position isn't recognized until cycled.
Then I loaded the new version, and also, no joy. Still the same.
I'm using Aux 2 for the switch, channel 5.
Otherwise, all is good though if you get a chance on programming, the flash LED signals that IBU2 uses is nice (one flash cannon reloaded, two for low voltage, etc.). I don't know if others like that feedback, but it is nice to have IMHO.
The #2 setting on the driving of the motors sure is sweet. This thing drives like a car almost, really smooth.....can't get over how nice it is.
Jerry
146
« on: January 07, 2018, 10:22:07 PM »
Hi Luke,
That was quick! I loaded up the firmware, and the track recoil is now in line with sound and the end of the airsoft recoil cycle. Fantastic!! Thank you so much.
As for the enable on airsoft when reset or turned on, it shows 'enabled' next to the 'airsoft'. Once cycled, it goes to enabled (again) then to disabled. I'm running a PWM to PMM converter (the one you found at HK) and it seems to work okay, but the readings seem to bounce a little when I read the radio. The pulse may vary maybe 10 counts out of 890? I think this is common, isn't it? Perhaps that is the issue? Its not a biggie, just have to remember to cycle it when starting out.
Jerry
147
« on: January 07, 2018, 05:31:52 PM »
Luke,
I thought that should be the solution, but when I tried it earlier it wouldn't work the way you described. I've since re-flashed the board, and reloaded the settings. So I turned on the tank, radio first though, and started it up fine, and with the channel switch in the disable position when hitting the cannon fire it would do the recoil, and the airsoft cannon, firing the sound when the airsoft limit switch opened as you would expect if airsoft was enabled. Upon cycling the switch, it would then work as expected with the cannon sound and track recoil in unison.
Turning the switch on to enable the airsoft, the track recoil was instantaneous, but the sound coordinated with the airsoft completion.
So, two issues the way I see it, at least with my setup:
1) track recoil when in airsoft mode is not synchronized with the sound and airsoft completion. (should be triggering off the airsoft limit switch?)
2) disable mode is not recognized until the trigger is cycled.
Sound okay? thanks for the quick reply btw.....Jerry
148
« on: January 07, 2018, 03:56:51 PM »
Hi Luke,
So my son, bless his heart, sent me a sabertooth 12A motor driver for Xmas, so I'm back working on my Panther and the Scout will have to wait for a while. Anyways, I'm having trouble setting the TCB up the way I have been on my other tanks (IBU2, Clark, Taigen). This includes having both IR or Airsoft available with the flick of a switch on the transmitter. What I'm trying to set up is:
Normal running is IR, with track recoil, cannon sound, IR flash all happening at the same instant.
Flipping a two position switch (in this case its channel 5 on my Turnigy 9x) enables the airsoft, which includes track recoil and cannon sound. The track recoil should be coordinated with the cannon sound and the 'pop' of the airsoft gun sending off the pellet.
Which settings would you recommend to accomplish this?
Oh, and btw, the sabertooth and TCB are the smoothest running system I have experienced so far. This thing will crawl slower than any of my tanks to date....awesome!!
thanks for any thoughts,
Jerry Rude
149
« on: November 12, 2017, 11:15:51 PM »
Thank you so much Luke, you are the man!!
So I just ordered the stencil, 3 mils since I thought the thinner, the better. Plastic, with a frame to ease the pain 8^). Its getting easier already.
I'll try out the heat plate tomorrow using my handy dandy Duratrax RC IR temp monitor while waiting for the stencil to arrive. The paste bottle doesn't say its recommended melting point (the Mechanic Solder Paste from ebay/China I think you recommended), I assume its 200C, right?
Thanks again!! Jerry
150
« on: November 12, 2017, 08:44:16 PM »
Hi Luke,
Okay, we are just back from vacation so now I'm ready to start assembly of the board. I have the hot plate you recommended, and have checked off all the parts from digitech and others. I found the board layout finally that shows where to put which part (initially I thought I'd have to trace back from the schematic...yikes!). So my first question is how much of the solder paste do you put on? and how is it normally applied, manually? I was thinking of using a small screwdriver to put the paste on each tang of the part and set it down on the board though not much would be needed (the pads are awfully close together!).
Thanks...obviously my first time at this! Jerry
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