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Messages - Lotuswins
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121
« on: April 25, 2018, 12:32:02 PM »
I believe the board has negative logic, so the common would be the positive potentials. Take your ohm meter and check for a common bus between the positive pins. Most of the lights use a common positive, and a few on the other side of the board. FWIW the taigen IR 360 ring has 14 wires, which is what I have used, it gives a few spares for future upgrades. Jerry
122
« on: April 23, 2018, 02:20:14 PM »
Hi Luke,
I would like to modify my statement of the recoil on airsoft coordination being totally gone.
If I have the airsoft switch off, and turn the radio then battery switch on and fire the cannon, the track recoil is coordinated. I then turn on the airsoft switch, and it is still coordinated. I then turn off the airsoft and fire....IR mode, okay. I then turn on the airsoft switch, and bingo, non coordinated.
I then did the same sequence, starting the tank after the battery switch is turned on, and same results..
I don't know if this helps your troubleshooting or not, but I thought it might.
jerry
123
« on: April 22, 2018, 11:01:31 PM »
Hi Luke, again,
So I loaded up your latest firmware, and it indeed fixed the sound issue. Unfortunately, the coordination of the sound/pellet/track recoil is now gone, totally? Ha!! how about that? Best laid plans and all that. Back to square one?
Try it on yours, and confirm it? I may have a bad airsoft limit switch (they do go bad I understand), but it still stops the sound and airsoft motor right after the pellet goes, so I'm doubting it.
Thanks again, chat with you soon.
Jerry
124
« on: April 22, 2018, 10:41:53 PM »
Hi Luke,
Thank you for the sound fix, I thought I was going nuts!!......Anyways, I'm sorry if it has taken you away from other, more important matters than our toys!!
Here is a run down on trying to identify the steps that take the tank to an non-coordinated sound/track recoil/pellet expulsion in an airsoft unit:
Okay, sequence of events:
Trial 1 Presets: Airsoft 2 pos. sw. in off position.
Radio on Tank turned on from cold via battery switch Started via transmitter switch (lower left of left joystick go to 100%) Cycle airsoft switch to clear any presets (it will fire in airsoft mode initially if not cycled) Shoot cannon in IR mode (airsoft sw. off) Results: recoil/sound in coordination. Move Airsoft sw. to Airsoft mode. Shoot. Results: recoil/sound/pellet expulsion in coordination. Move Airsoft sw. to IR mode. Drive tank straight ahead, and fire cannon on the move. No recoil, of course, and cannon noise happens as expected. Stop tank. Move Airsoft sw. to Airsoft mode. Shoot cannon. Results: recoil happens initially like in IR mode, Airsoft motor winds up and shoots pellet. Sound occurs as pellet expels. i.e. not coordinated.
Trial 2 Presets: Airsoft sw. in on position Radio turned on. Tank turned on from cold via battery switch Started via transmitter switch (lower left of left joystick go to 100%) Shoot cannon in Airsoft mode. Results: recoil/sound in coordination. Move Airsoft sw. to IR mode. Shoot. Results: recoil/sound/pellet expulsion in coordination. Drive tank straight ahead, and fire cannon. No recoil, of course, and cannon noise happens as expected. Stop tank. Move Airsoft sw. to Airsoft mode. Shoot cannon. Results: recoil happens initially like in IR mode, Airsoft motor winds up and shoots pellet. Sound occurs as pellet expels. i.e. not coordinated Conclusion: doesn't matter which position the airsoft switch is in initially on startup.
Trial 3 Presets: Airsoft sw. off Tank turned on from cold via battery switch Radio turned on (reverse of trials 1 & 2) Repeat above two trials: Results: no change Conclusions: Radio/battery switch sequence not an issue.
Trial 4 Presets: Airsoft sw. off Radio then tank batt sw. turned on. Start tank via transmitter Cycle airsoft sw. Drive tank, shoot cannon while in motion, wait for flasher to cycle, stop tank. Switch to airsoft mode, shoot cannon. Results: non coordinated Switch to IR mode, shoot cannon. Results: Sound/Track recoil coordinated. Switch to airsoft mode, shoot cannon. Results: It is now coordinated. Conclusion: Switching back to IR mode and shooting cannon seems to reset the airsoft cycle where the track recoil happens with pellet and sound i.e. the airsoft switch.
No rush on this!! get the important stuff done.....I really understand, (been there.....)
Thanks again, I really appreciate your efforts!!
Jerry
125
« on: April 22, 2018, 05:16:42 PM »
Hi Luke,
Tried a differnt LiPo, no joy
So then I re-calibrated the radio, thinking that would maybe be why it won't turn off the idle sound. Nothing
So, with the tank started then shut off via transmitter, verified by smoker starting then stopping, I unplugged the lead to the Taigen sound card, and the sound stopped. I plugged it back in and it stayed off. Curious.
So I swapped with a known good Taigen sound card, and no change.
I'll try and go back a change or two in the hex files to see if that helps.
Jerry
126
« on: April 22, 2018, 04:33:40 PM »
Hi Luke,
Okay, now I'm totally confused!! Lets see if I can remember exactly what I actually did:
1) I loaded the hex file you sent, thank you for that (I think?).
2) I loaded the saved Panther configuration file. Just to be sure. (got a note that 2 settings were deleted and need to resave a new file?)
3) Tested the tank, and now the sound won't turn off....If I attempt to turn it off then the smoker quits, tank won't drive, etc. but the sound remains...cannon works, even airsoft, idle sounds still on. Hmmm...... 4) So I tried to go back to the standard firmware flash, and reflashed it.
5) Pulled up the config file, and it repeats the 2 settings deleted, etc.)
6) Sounds still won't turn off. Checked the functions, and it still looks okay, lower left is toggle on/off.....??
7) recoil/pellet/sound coordination is still off after running and firing in IR mode.
I'm going to recharge the LiPo, just in case (did it recently but just in case) and repeat. Jerry
127
« on: April 20, 2018, 02:42:12 PM »
Hi all, Okay, I got the Adafruit amp in the mail last night. BTW this is what Thomas Benedini wrote back to me regarding hookup: My Quiry: Hi Thomas, I would like to connect the Mini I just received from you to this Adafruit Amplifier: https://www.adafruit.com/product/2130?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6efijeu82gIVDlmGCh0FTwlUEAQYASABEgKdn_D_BwEIs it possible to connect it without the 220 ohm resistor and potentiometer? Just simply connecting the BEC 5v from the OP TCB to power it and the audio input (Speaker + & -) from the Mini directly to the A+ & A- on the amp? I'm really cramped for space in my T55A RC tank, and I'm hoping just cables are needed to use this 2.5W amplifier. Thank you for any help, Jerry His response: Hello Gerald, this seems to be possible, by having a look only to the picture. Having the schematic would be better. No guarantee on any damages !!!! I hope this helps. Best regards Thomas So I hooked it up this morning, using a 4 ohm, 1 x 2 inch speaker (Mato sells them, as does Amazon). I think, not sure, they are rated at 3 watts. And all worked, volume is more in line with the other tanks, Taigen, HL, etc. Happy except the cannon sound for the T55A is a little disappointingly soft IMHO. I plugged a pair (total 4 ohm) speakers, rated 3 watts each, and it worked even better. So great outcome, for $3.95 plus shipping. Thanks, Jerry
128
« on: April 19, 2018, 05:45:39 PM »
Hi Luke,
Rather than open a new topic, I thought I'd just tag it onto this one since its relevant. When out driving the Panther today, I noticed an anomaly:
When driving along and shooting the cannon on the move with the airsoft off via the transmitter switch, and then stopping, switching the airsoft on and shooting; the recoil is no longer coordinated with the cannon sound and pellet expulsion, but instead it recoils instantaneously with the hitting of the cannon switch. And it will continue like this until I switch off the airsoft, and fire the cannon. Then all is back to normal when I turn on the airsoft switch with the recoil, pellet, and noise all synchronous.
It seems like a small coordination in the firmware? perhaps?
Anyway, just thought I'd pass it along so you can add it to your already way too long to do list...glad to be of service 8^).
jerry
129
« on: April 15, 2018, 02:47:37 PM »
Thanks for the quick reply Luke.
I just emailed Thomas, so we'll see what he recommends.
Also, as a side note on speakers, I have an old Heng Long KV1 that has remained pretty much stock and was a 2.7khz radio tank initially. I measured the speaker DC resistance yesterday, and it is 6.5 ohms. That is wierd.....oh, well. It's too bulky for the T55A anyways (I would have to cut the speaker enclosure up to make it fit) but I thought it was interesting that its an in-between speaker.....
Jerry
130
« on: April 15, 2018, 01:01:23 PM »
Hi Luke, So I went trolling for a amall, mono amplifier, and not liking the Benedini options, found this 2.5W model: https://www.adafruit.com/product/2130?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6efijeu82gIVDlmGCh0FTwlUEAQYASABEgKdn_D_BwEThe question is how to connect it to the Benedini Mini....I see in the Mini manual that he recommends a 220 ohm resistor in series with a 220 pot from Negative speaker out to ground, and the output is the wiper of the pot and ground. This kinda seems wierd to me, and I would have to hang the pot and resistor somewhere. I really would like a much cleaner approach. I was planning on powering it with the 5.5v BEC off the TBS, so that would go to 2-5VDC and GND on the amp. The two outputs from the Mini go to the A Plus and A Minus on the board input, and of course I would install a JST male on the board for the speaker to plug into (4 ohms works on this too). Since A+ and A- are fully differential, it should work? What do you think? Thanks, Jerry
131
« on: April 13, 2018, 04:16:21 PM »
Hi again,
So I looked at the details of the Mini, and it has a whopping 1.2 watts output? Wow, how are you satisfied with that volume...w/o an amplifier?? I don't know what the HL or Taigen outputs are, but surely it must be at least double this??
So it looks like an amp is in my future.....
Jerry
132
« on: April 12, 2018, 11:18:34 PM »
Hi Luke,
So I use channel 7 on the 9x for volume, Pot #2, and I setup the TCB with Channel 7 as Aux 3, digital 3 position switch. Function setup is: Position one is start raising volume, position two is stop volume, and three is start decreasing volume. It works a treat.
A side question on the Benedini though, I purchased some very small rectangular speakers in 8 ohm impedance, and hooked it up today. The volume is very low compared to others on 4 ohm speakers like the Taigen sound card. Same size speaker, just different impedance. Will I smoke the Benedini with a lower impedance speaker?? It does look rather delicate....
thanks, Jerry
133
« on: April 10, 2018, 12:58:03 AM »
Can I 'simulate' a switch with the pot?? low (zero) ohms, position 1, and high (100k) as position 3, mid level, mid position?
134
« on: April 09, 2018, 10:36:46 PM »
Hi Luke,
So I have my T55A working great with the TCB, and the Taigen sound card, but its spitting out the PIV sounds (....that is all I know of that they have right now).
I just rec'd the Benedini Mini with the T55A sounds set up for the TCB, and I read that a 3 position switch is needed to control the volume. Since the 3 position switch on my 9X turnigy is already reserved for engine start/stop....as it is on all of my tanks....is it possible to control the mini sound volume using one of the pots?? Can you recommend how to set that up?
thanks for any help, Jerry
135
« on: March 22, 2018, 01:53:25 PM »
I've been using the Hobbyking one, which is dirt cheap, and the crimps have been really good IMHO. At least for me, and I've been doing crimps now for what, 40 years?? geez, that is way too long!! No numbers on the tool, and its been a while since I purchased it.....could look at my history in HK database...perhaps its still there.
Jerry
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