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Messages - JPS99
16
« on: December 16, 2020, 07:09:46 PM »
I too am making the T35, 90% of the body and wheels printed but still have the fun part to do( track links) also printed part of the gearbox parts but struggling with assembly as I’ve no reference photos
Yes, it sure would be nice if this thing came with instructions! Are you building the Krasi50 transmission that was posted in the comments on Thingiverse? If so I can give you some tips. Also, if you want, I can post my STL files for the print-in-place tracks I'm using.
Good luck!
17
« on: December 15, 2020, 08:05:26 AM »
The soldering process I use is as follows:
1. Reflow solder the VNH5050's. Check for bridging/gaps (using multimeter)
2. Reflow most of the underside components, starting so close at you can get to the VNH5050's which are now upside down and hindering a complete reflow of the buttom.
3. Hand soldering the rest of the top SMD components
4. Hand soldering the rest of the buttom SMD components
5. Hand soldering the top through-hole components
6. Hand soldering all of the pins going into the arduino mega. (mounting the pins in the mega using it as the holder is the easiest way to do it)
Saying this is an easy soldering task would be a lie. It takes some practice to solder smd components of this size, youtube is your friend.
I use a simple hotplate for the reflowing such as this
Cheers Kim
Thanks, Kim. I'm just re-reading this as I am getting to the point where my T35 is ready for the electronics. I've been doing a lot of testing of the chassis and tracks as this behemoth has so much track footprint that it can cause problems and breakage. My reliability factor has gone up enough that I am now starting to work on the superstructure and need to get some turret movement and sound. I'm looking forward to getting your TCB Hat working as it will add a lot of function to the T35. Regards and Merry Christmas, Joe
18
« on: December 13, 2020, 07:44:30 PM »
Joe- Thank you for posting the video showing the tracks being printed in place and your other updates. It's clear that it takes a bit of time to print even just two track shoes. I'd like to understand the track assembly process a bit better. Can you clarify the process of inserting the pins? I'm assuming that you remove the tracks from the printer plate, drill out the holes for the pins and then insert the pins?
Hi Eric, actually I print the segments (usually twenty at a time) and the first and last segments have open holes (no pin printed), so I don't have to drill out the holes. I had been drilling slightly to enlarge the hole because I was joining with 1.5 mm wire. Now that I'm using 1.3 mm I no longer have to drill and this results in a stronger track hinge. I'd like to ask a few questions about the track/pin design if you don't mind indulging my curiosity for a bit:
- What is the actual failure mode of the tracks? I'm assuming the plastic fractures at the hinge joints (or knuckles as I believe they're called), is that correct?
Yes, the rest of the track is quite sturdy. The knuckles were a problem when I drilled them out. The print-in-place tracks now break when the pins give out. - If the failure mode described above is correct is it possible to make the hinges thicker at the hinge knuckles? Once again I'm assuming that is what your design iterations are working on.
Yes, that's exactly what I was attempting to do, but I tried probably half a dozen mods and then tested by printing a few segments but they were not breaking loose at the hinge, so obviously I was doing something wrong. I may try again in the future. - Can you use thinner wire to effectively increase the knuckle thickness? I suppose the limitation here might be the small diameter of the drill bit itself as too small a bit will break easily.
As mentioned above, that's what i did. I ordered some 1.3 mm stainless rod and it seems to be working better now. I tried to make a crude measurement jig by suspending a section of track from the ceiling on a hanging scale and then hanging a gallon jug from the bottom of the track. I filled the jug up and it still held together - 8.75 lbs! I added almost 4 pounds of stainless shot to the jug and repeated the process. The track ended up supporting 12.5 pounds without breaking. That's quite a weight! - Any idea why the original designer chose to print the guide horns separate from the track shoe itself?
Yes, he wanted to print the track on its flattest surface, which is the top, where the guide pin goes. He also printed individual segments and joined each with a fine pin. He reports that his T35 is no longer in use because of track and sprocket problems. I can understand how the track is a pain, the way he did it. I am lazy and forsaw that I would grow tired of building tracks so I got brave and brought a segment and guide pin into TinkerCad, flipped the segments over, added the guide pin and a plastic hinge pin, then duplicated 19 more to get my 20 segment section, which is close to what I can fit on my Ender 5 build plate. - Is it possible to use an acetone vapor-bath to help fuse the individual printed plastic extrusions together? I used this on several of my ABS prints to help smooth out the rough surface texture inherent in 3D printed parts which I believe Luke once made reference to. Perhaps a full-on vapor bath wouldn't be required but maybe "painting" just the track hinge knuckles would strengthen the joints.
I hear that works on ABS, but pretty much melts PLA, which I use. I think it would also glue the segments together hopelessly. I'm pretty happy with my track now. I think once I completely replace all the test sections with my V6 track it will be pretty reliable. I will have to avoid carpet though as the tracks are extremely 'grippy' because of the fine filament fragments that are on the bottom because I am printing them upside down without support. I've gotten rid of some of that by modifying the segment to leave less of a gap from the build plate. I think as long as I avoid carpeting which has loops I'l be okay as the segments work like velcro on it. I drove over a small mat on my shop floor and it picked it up and wrapped it up over the sprocket and had about 18" of it attached to the track before I got it stopped! It works great on cement floor, as I've done a lot of zooming around in my shop. It should be good on asphalt too. I need to avoid mulch and gravel as they will jam it, I'm pretty sure. [/list]
I likely got way ahead of myself or you've probably considered all of the possibilities I described above but my curiosity has gotten the better of me.
In the video of the T35 running outside its performance on the brick, and even the larger stones, was impressive. I found myself holding my breath a bit somewhat expecting the tracks to break or slip off the road wheels. I would think that, if you could run the tracks for a number of hours without breakage you would have a successful design. Yes, that's my goal.
I'm getting to be comfortable with the track, so now I'm playing with sound!
19
« on: December 09, 2020, 08:29:30 PM »
Codewarrior expressed an interest in seeing a time lapse video of a track being printed. I don't think this shows too much as it's pretty small, but here it is!
20
« on: December 09, 2020, 03:44:53 PM »
I've been questioned on the 'print-in-place' tank tracks I have on my tanks so I thought I would bring a few details into the picture. I'm on version 7 of my T35 tracks. Originally Dean Rauch made them as individual segments, but I had problems with my tracks breaking, probably because I had to drill them out slightly to insert the 1.5mm pins I was using (actually soft steel wire cut into ~32 mm lengths. It was also a LOT of work assembling the 132 segments per side, so, being a lazy cuss I instead fiddled with them in Tinkercad and came up with a printable version of 20 segments. I join the sections of track using a 1.3mm stainless steel pin now, and hopefully that will be more robust, since I don't have to drill the segments to fit the steel pin. I've also printed up 12 segment lengths as well as a few 1 and 2 segment pieces for repairs. I have also modified the track so that the road wheel guide pins are printed as part of each segment, instead of having to glue them together. I made a short video of the tracks and a test I did yesterday. They are slowly becoming more robust. Right now I have a mix of probably 4 or more versions on the T35 and have become quite proficient at replacing broken segments! Here's a comparison video and here is a video of the outside testing.
21
« on: November 30, 2020, 07:39:18 PM »
Joe- Your 1/10th scale Tatra is an impressive build. It sounds like you enjoy the creative process, both from the electrical and mechanical standpoints. I’d be curious to know your impressions Ender 5-
Eric
Eric, Thanks, the Tatra was my first big project, probably took 400+ print hours. it is mechanically cool, but it's really fragile. I started my IS-1 tank because it looked a lot more robust (it is) but in preparation for building it I bought a second Creality Ender 5 because I had such reliable results with my first one. As for TheDIYGuy999, he really supports his projects, he's up to version 5.6 on his ESP32 Sound/Light/Motion control board and just introduced and SMD version (minus the ESP32 module) which saves space. He designed it for his Tamiya King Hauler but has expanded and upgraded it and made it useful for almost anything that moves now including tanks, balancing robots, etc. The inertia models he's built into the motion control are really impressive and the motor sound is quite configurable for a wide range of vehicle sounds. He even incorporated one I captured for my IS-1! I also built his 2.4ghz transmitter and micro receiver because it looked fun and got me into SMD soldering. They are pretty cool and the receiver even incorporates a low power motor driver which he's used on some small scale model cars. As for my convoy idea, my thinking is that the vehicle(s) following would maintain a set distance behind the leader and would make turns with a time delay commensurate with the following distance and speed so that they would follow the same path (within reason) although I have no idea how to accomplish this. I watched your video, that is very cool. The Tiny85 is a neat little device. I have a little scope something like yours.. they are pretty handy for rc troubleshooting! Yes, Luke is super helpful, the board runs on his shoulders. From what I've seen he is always helpful and is a pretty savvy guy when it comes to electronics and tank control systems. So what part of Detroit are you in? I lived in Milan, just outside of AA until Christmas 2018. Take care, Joe
22
« on: November 30, 2020, 10:20:11 AM »
Good progress Joe. But I have been quite stumped about your "print in place tracks" and have tried to figure it out for myself, to no avail, so now I will ask. Are you not using a metal pin to join each track segment? I saw the picture you posted earlier of a series of track segments being printed at once, but that was early in the process, after only a few layers, and as yet there is no hinge-pin visible.
It is beyond my ability to imagine how you could print a "pin" inside a floating hole to link the segments. Can you explain your wizardry further? It might help some others who are printing tracks!
Luke, the 3D printer will print where there is a pin and nothing where there is a gap. Of course filament doesn't hang in mid air but the areas where the pin plastic sags and contacts the track segment below do not bond well and are broken loose after printing. It's somewhat magical, but you'd be amazed at what can be printed in place! I've attached a few photos from Tinkercad of the track as I modified it and there is another photo of a 20 segment track that I just printed. I turned Dean's segments right-side up, aligned them together via the pin holes, added an undersized pin as well as the segment tooth ( what I call it) that guides the track through the wheels. This one comes up a bit stiff, but with a little 'working' it frees up nicely! I've concluded that the reason the track segments are breaking (as you saw in my video) is that i am drilling them slightly in order to fit the 1.5 mm wire I am using as pins. I have now ordered some 1.3 mm stainless rod that I will use for the pins, hoping that I won't have to drill out the segments and thus weakening them.
23
« on: November 27, 2020, 09:57:38 AM »
Hi CodeWarrior, thanks for the response. I see you live outside of Detroit. Funny, we just moved from Ann Arbor to Erie, PA two years ago to retire. I bought my Ender 5 at that time and learned 3D printing. My first big project was my 1/10 scale Tatra 815. You might have seen it on my Youtube channel. Before I was even finished with it I became enthralled with Lubos Hort's Is-1 tank which I came across on Thingiverse, and began printing it. Both models were 1/10 scale and radio controlled. I also built TheDIYGuy999's ESP32 sound/light/motion control board for those models, as well as his 2.4ghz transmitter and micro receiver. I really like the ESP32 boards and will also incorporate one into the 1/14 scale King Hauler I am building now. (I know, too many projects, but Hey, I'm retired!)
I dabble in electronics projects, but am not a designer. There are so many great projects on the net that I'd be silly to try to design my own at this age. My focus is weakening, perhaps because I have so many projects going. My wife bought me a keyboard for Christmas, so now I am learning to play the piano as well. Retirement is tiring!
You mentioned PIC projects.. I recall working with Microchip's Basic Stamp. That was fun.. I was able to code in Basic, but never got into other languages unfortunately. The only project that I've thought of lately, since I've gotten into RC modelling, is some kind of 'Convoy System'. I will have two tanks and my Tatra and thought it would be cool if I could somehow be able to make one vehicle follow another and mimic its movements. This would open the way to some interesting video opportunities. I have to do everything alone, so it is tough to get a nice action shot of my tank in motion, let alone two of them. I see some interesting projects on Youtube, etc where guys have build ' RC travel cams' that ride along on a suspended cable and take video while moving along beside the subject of the video. That looked like a fun way to capture shots. I also have a nice little camera drone that I plan to use to capture video as well. I also set up my iS-1 tank control system with a 'cruise control' so that I can set a speed and then set the transmitter down so I can take video. Looks like we're running out of weather for this year's outdoor fun though.
Anyway, enough foolishness from me.
Have a great Thanksgiving!
regards,
Joe
24
« on: November 25, 2020, 09:32:06 AM »
Hi -- I check in on this page a couple times a week-- not have anything to post just at the moment but maybe later as I,m in the process of making the sound cards. I'm looking into making a reflow oven at the moment. I don't think the Open Panzer is dead-- a lot of people use this site for the tech tips etc and the wiki. The TCB is still the best board out there for tank control.
happy tanking
Hi rockchuck, I recently made a reflow oven from an old toaster oven. All I did was drill a hole through the back of the oven and insert a cheap thermocouple probe that I bought on Amazon for about $20. I set one of the oven trays (it might have been the crump tray) on top of the metal probe for good readings. In my testing, I just set the oven on high and monitor the temperature rise. It is pretty close to the nominal reflow curve I found. I just turn the temperature down once I reach the 'soak' temp, wait 2 minutes or so, then crank it back up until i reach peak. so far it has worked out great. I plan to use it on Kim Olsen's Heclo TCB Shield for Mega2560 Boards. I've been pushing off that project as I am just getting up to speed on SMD soldering. Apparently the motor drivers on Kim's board are pretty fussy. I will soon have to take the plunge and build one as I'm running out of excuses... I have the PCBs and all the parts, I now have a hot air soldering station and my reflow oven. Just need the courage to start placing components! My T-35 project is going to force me to build one as there are too many turrets and guns to handle without it! Cheers, Joe
25
« on: November 25, 2020, 09:18:47 AM »
Forgot to add an update to my T-35 project! This is a paste from the description on my Youtube video. Sorry, I'm Laaaaaazzzy! This is the second test of my 1/16 scale 3D printed T35a Russian Tank. I now have 2 ESCs so I can test the turning ability of the tank. I am controlling the tank with the open-source 2.4ghz micro transmitter designed by TheDIYGuy999 as well as his own design micro receiver. Both of these designs and more are available, please check his Youtube channel for more information at https://www.youtube.com/user/TheDIYGuy999 The tank itself can be found on Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3064387My testing today revealed a weak point in the tread design. The tread on the right side of the tank was printed as individual segments joined by 1.5mm wire pieces while the tread on the left was my hack - I imported one track segment into Tinkercad then duplicated it and joined it together with a 1.5 mm rod and duplicated into sections that would fit onto my 3D printer bed. I created different lengths of segments to assist with the final total tread count and to have on hand for replacement. My goal was to have as few metal pins as possible. I anticipate problems with the pin joining method so I will endeavor to increase the size of the joining surfaces to make them stronger. I will also attempt to add the segment alignment tooth that sticks up from the track and is what guides the track between the wheels. Currently these are glued on individually and are a real PITA! The track segments were designed to print upside down so I will have to see if it is possible to print them successfully right side up so I can print the alignment tooth along with the tread. The T-35 is such a long tank that the treads are incredibly long and because of the large surface area invite problems. It does not help that they are somewhat spindly as well, compared to the IS-1 and T-34 tank. This has been a fun project and once I can get my chassis rolling along reliably I will complete the superstructure and turret detail.
26
« on: November 25, 2020, 09:14:48 AM »
Good progress Joe. But I have been quite stumped about your "print in place tracks" and have tried to figure it out for myself, to no avail, so now I will ask. Are you not using a metal pin to join each track segment? I saw the picture you posted earlier of a series of track segments being printed at once, but that was early in the process, after only a few layers, and as yet there is no hinge-pin visible.
It is beyond my ability to imagine how you could print a "pin" inside a floating hole to link the segments. Can you explain your wizardry further? It might help some others who are printing tracks!
I have had good success with 'print in place' objects. I have a printed motor, 3 cylinder with pistons rods and crankshaft that all rotate as you would expect, all printed in one piece in PLA. I first learned of Print in Place tank tracks on IS-1 project. Lubos Hort had created them for his rendering and they worked perfectly. After laboriously assembling the individual segments for the T-35 Dean created, I started thinking life would be simpler if entire sections could be printed. I just imported a segment into Tinkercad, duplicated it, then aligned them so the pin holes lined up and created a pin and put it in place, allowing for a few tenths of a mil clearance, then exported and printed it. Takes about 30 minutes to print a two segment track which i then evaluate for swivel motion. If too tight, I just shrink the pin another couple of tenths and keep trying until it works well. in places the pin will bind to the segments, but if the clearance is reasonable, it will break loose and allow movement. I will try to attach a sample file in case anybody is interested. Also a link to a Youtube video showing some interesting 'print in place' items I've printed. Cheers, Joe
27
« on: November 25, 2020, 06:43:42 AM »
Joe- That is a very impressive build that you're doing. It's an interesting choice by Dean to model a fairly complicated tank. If I were even to attempt to create the models for an RC tank I think I'd opt to make something like a Stridsvagn 103 (turretless!).
Are you using ABS or PLA filament?
Sorry to take so long to reply. I guess I need to turn on notifications. I do most of my printing in PLA. I've had good success with ABS in printing track segments, but was never drawn to it beyond that.
28
« on: November 25, 2020, 06:38:44 AM »
Hello, new bloke here!
I designed my own Arduino powered tank battle system a while back, great to see this project! I did a cut down version like this specific part to run a Panzerturm... This runs a servo for a random time, fires the cannon then rests for a reload period and starts again. Adds an interesting feature to the battleground! I have also designed my own tank sound system which works pretty well.
Here's a video of the Panzerturm during dev....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LaTYOzBSGUo
Drew.
Sounds like you've done some interesting work. I'm always interested in seeing other people's projects and how they do things. There are so many different ways to solve a problem these days with Arduino! I'm building a T-35a which has a lot of turrets. I had thought of doing something to randomize motion on some of the turrets. With five to play with, it would be cool to see them all in action. If you would care to share more photos or videos of what you have done, I'm always interested in viewing! Cheers, Joe
29
« on: November 08, 2020, 07:20:14 PM »
I see that Lubos has now finished his 1/10 scale King Tiger II tank and has the STL files available for purchase at the very reasonable price. He has also just released his 1/10 scale Panzer Kpfw.38, not to mention is IS-1 and T-34. Lubos' kits are well designed and the build guides are nicely laid out for ease of assembly. Check out my IS-1 in the 'Show and Tell' section of the forum. I had a lot of fun printing and buillding it. Lubos' offerings can be found here: https://3dtisk-rc-modely.webnode.cz/en/
30
« on: November 08, 2020, 07:08:20 PM »
I just did the first test of my 1/16 scale 3D printed T35a tank drive and suspension, (STL files by Dean Rauch https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3064387 ) I've incorporated a few mods in the form of the coil springs for the road wheels and (for the most part) print in place tank track vs individually linked segments. In the video the suspension is working fairly well, but is still stiff and needs a lot of running in to free up the bogies and coil springs. I now have the considerable job of making it look like a tank. There are a multitude of parts yet to assemble - the tank has 5 turrets and a crew of 11, so is quite a beast! I will keep updating my channel as work progresses. Warning, this thing sounds like a rock crusher!
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