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Messages - NS-21
1
« on: September 03, 2023, 04:57:34 PM »
Hi,
I have suddenly started having an issue with my Arduino Mega 2560 diy board.
The issue is that if i connect a freshly charged NIMH 7.2v pack or 2cell lipo via the jack plug the board throws a fit by flashing all the lights on in quick time, All the lights, those on the model and board and forward and reverse indicators, the board will not function, the receiver is powered up and lights up but the board is giving the signal of no radio connection yet it is, or low voltage but it is not???
The puzzling part is if i connect a slightly used NIMH pack say around 7.5 volts the board powers up first time every time, even when i connect a 6v NIMH pack it functions correctly, but not with a fully charged pack. It is as if something is limiting the voltage going into the board at a set voltage
Does any one have any ideas how to fix this issue its driving me nuts..thx
Regards.
Sub.
I'm certainly not a direct expert, but there is very little data. For example: 1. I would like to see a diagram. Have you created your own version based on a respected author's board, or are you following his design? 2. Many interesting points, but so far you have provided little information. Like mine. I have created many versions (about 16 software versions and four hardware versions) based on Luke's original product. I tested the microcircuit, the main power supply was 20 volts. I shared the power, and powered the 2560 DIY version from 16 volts. I have not seen such problems. P.S. Yes, I've had a lot of fun with this project.
2
« on: June 04, 2023, 04:29:40 PM »
Yes, I put a hat on my head, immediately take it off, and put it on my chest. This is a great addition!
3
« on: June 03, 2023, 03:45:15 PM »
Yes, I agree, it looks cool and realistic!
Now I understand what it was about!
4
« on: May 26, 2023, 04:24:42 PM »
To be honest, I still can not understand the sacred meaning of these changes.
More precisely, I can’t understand what their functionality is, in application, in the construction (revival) of models.
That's what I really get - this is, for example, the functionality of flashing beacons for ships, for police cars, or just cars, so that when turning left, for example, the turn signal turns on automatically - turning left, for example.
5
« on: May 25, 2023, 02:42:33 PM »
if i had a bigger printer i would do that one
https://www.3dprintedtanks.com/is1en/
Greetings, dear! I have been jealous of your tank and print quality for a very long time, and what can I say? I'm doing KV-1! Scaled 1:10. I have a printer with a large print area, and I am printing a project (more precisely, it is already printed by 60%) from this respected author: https://www.printables.com/model/219806-tank-kv-1-rc-model-110This is an incredible model! P.S. I will also find an opportunity to buy from https://www.3dprintedtanks.com/ - the T-34 tank! Unfortunately, there are still difficulties in paying, but I will overcome this difficulty as well. And I'm also looking forward to when he makes a model of the IS-2 tank!
6
« on: July 13, 2022, 05:10:36 PM »
Thanks for the tip Luke, just wish I'd checked sooner......I've got three 4.0 teenie's now that are no good to me...no wonder my sound cards wouldn't work!! I think they loaded okay, just seemed to act a little wierd. Now to find some 3.2 versions...maybe I'll get lucky 
jerry
I think I've been trying to get 3.2 versions for over a year... Or a chip with a recorded bootloader. So far nothing has worked. It's bad that I can't rewrite the program - to another platform.
7
« on: May 30, 2022, 08:09:07 PM »
This happens to me if I bring the transmitter less than 150mm closer to the receiver connected to the TCB. I am using an XJT FrSKY 2.4 transmitter module and an X8R receiver module. Hardware -Turnigy 9X, flashed to ER9X V1.743- Mike  This usually happens when I test my own versions, based on the work and experience of the respected LukeZ, when I use my radio equipment. I just do it from a distance. P.S. About my radio transmitter and its software:  [/url]
8
« on: May 18, 2022, 06:14:56 PM »
LukeZ, and what about tantalum capacitors in a plastic case? Can they be applied? (naturally equivalent in characteristics). For example 100*25V in SMD-D case? Used battery - Li-polymer 11.1V I don’t like the capacitors that are in the original board model, or rather, I don’t like their soldering (the appearance is spoiled by a hot air soldering iron, as well as poor-quality soldering, since I don’t have a heated table), and I haven’t made a stove yet, or rather, no one has thrown away the kitchen a stove that can be converted for my projects.
9
« on: May 14, 2022, 06:02:38 PM »
its really nice what you said but i am not the désigner ! I dont have the patience and the program to do that! i get the files at 3dprintedtanks.com. that Guy have designed some tanks. the price of the files are low for the quality of the parts. the manual is perfect, like a tamya. they take long time to assemble but are easy to print and if your printer is calibrated you will have very few corrections to do
And I thought it was your work. In any case, this is great work. I would like to see photos of your work - in maximum resolution. I know a holy man who presented to the world an excellent model of the KV-1 tank, in 1:10 scale!This is great work! And his build guide is incredible! If my homemade printer would print, at least in half the quality cases, like yours, I would start printing. I really like the KV-1 tank from the tanks of the USSR, and there are favorite tanks from the Second World War of the USA and Germany.
10
« on: May 14, 2022, 05:13:43 PM »
I would like to have such skills and experience in designing such models!
Alas, I am too old for this.
I have a lot of projects that I have thought about to the fullest, but I face only one problem - I do not have the knowledge and skills to draw them.
All I can do is solder and design a bit, thanks to LukeZ's advice and answers on this forum.
You are a great guy!
11
« on: May 13, 2022, 04:57:30 PM »
What a beautiful print!!!
What printer did this?
This is very, very high quality work!
12
« on: February 15, 2022, 01:58:03 PM »
LukeZ! Thanks, that's what I needed.
One more request. As I understand it from Tamiya Battle Unit - the connection connector has a physical key, the so-called "fool protection" (we have such a saying).
Could someone take the approximate dimensions and take a photo from the side of the connection connector? I want to make a 3d model of this connector.
HM. It turns out that Heng Long has no hit indication in the apple and so on.
I did not know.
They gave me a gift tank without an IR-combat system.
13
« on: February 14, 2022, 03:00:33 PM »
I would like to take this opportunity to ask. Can someone take a photo of the tamiya apple pinout for me? And other apples. I spread the connector for it on my versions of the boards. But I am opposed to crossing wires. I will be very grateful if they take a photo with pinout marks.  Please, directly on the photo - mark the assignment of the pins to the tamiya apple in order to exclude such problems in the future and I will put it in the manual. Thank you in advance. P.S. On my boards - I tried everything. Everything is working. True, one day - my test tank began to work in the mode of a repair vehicle. For a long time I could not understand if it was interference or something else. But I bought myself a microscope for my birthday. It turned out the output from the microchip was badly soldered. But now I have a great tool. Bad soldering is not terrible for us! P.S. The bear is also happy with the new tool.
14
« on: February 09, 2022, 12:53:04 PM »
Live a century - learn a century (s). Russian proverb. Thanks.
That's the level of voltage drop - I did not pay attention.
In general, this is very upsetting.
I just started to understand electronics, gained some basic knowledge - but you can’t assemble anything because of the lack of elements.
Dear LukeZ.
You reminded me about the bootloader, and the need to flash the chip from the store. I redesigned my boards and added pogo-pin pads to flash the bootloader.
Can you tell me how to turn the Arduino chip - as if it were from the factory, so that I can try out how to flash the bootloader.
I also had problems in the OP Config version, which I translated into Russian.
There are problems in the section - reading the radio. The program stops showing the movement of sticks and switches.
Tell me where I should write to ask you a question.
15
« on: February 08, 2022, 02:28:03 PM »
I was in great shock when I learned that ordinary components (microchips, not graphics chips for video accelerators) turn out to be - there is a huge shortage all over the world.
I'm sorry that I can't assemble my small version of the Open Panzer Sound Card due to the complete lack of key chips.
Mouser.com promises tiny availability (700 chips) only by August of this year.
For my TCB crafts, I use Robotdyn MEGA2560 Pro Embed boards bought on Ali as chip donors.
I already got working test versions of my TCB version - just soldering the chips from this board, without even programming the bootloader. Everything worked great.
In order not to create a new topic with questions regarding the radio elements of the TCB project, I will ask the respected LukeZ what he thinks about replacing the MIC29300-5.0WU with the LM1085S-5.0
I am very confused by the manufacturer LM1085S-5.0 (Manufacturer - HGSEMI)
The microcircuit that LukeZ uses in its original project is a well-known manufacturer, but the price of the microcircuit is high.
The only replacement that I picked up - the manufacturer is unknown to me, and the price is small.
I read the data sheet - it seems identical.
Thanks in advance for the responses and opinions of all members of the community.
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