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Messages - LukeZ
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76
« on: February 12, 2022, 08:53:21 AM »
I just wanted to be sure by taking the chip from the store, flash the bootloader, and be sure that everything was flashed correctly, and be sure that it was not the old bootloader that remained there, but I sewed up a new one. You will be able to see that the new bootloader was successfully installed because it blinks the red LED on pin A3, which the stock Arduino bootloader does not.
77
« on: February 12, 2022, 08:27:51 AM »
Good sounds are always a challenge. You might have better luck asking on one of the more mainstream RC tank forums if anyone has some sound files they'd be willing to share. You could give Rad Schuhart's King Tiger sounds a try, you can download them here. He made them for the Open Panzer sound card but you can use any sounds you want with your Benedini. You will need to resample them to the format that Benedini accepts, I believe that is 16Bit, 22050Hz. But you should be able to do that in a free program like Audacity.
78
« on: February 12, 2022, 08:06:32 AM »
You see, I'm used to everything - to check at the maximum level of complexity.
I simply have to, before posting my version to the public - check everything so that it is for everyone who wants to repeat my experience - it's understandable for repetition!
I honestly have little understanding of programming through USBasp. And fuzes.
If you can tell me - how to erase the chip, and turn it into a state - "just rolled off the assembly line" - I will be grateful! I understand your desire to have a process that can be shared with anyone so they can repeat it even if they have a blank chip "from the assembly line." That's good! What I am saying is that the process in the instructions above is the same for everybody and every chip. It doesn't matter if the chip already has a bootloader on it, or if the chip already has a program on it, or if the chip is completely empty. The process to flash a new bootloader is always the same. It always starts by erasing the chip completely, even if the chip doesn't have anything on it to erase. You don't need to know anything about fuse settings, the files above will take care of that for you! I suggest you start with the process as described in the instructions above and let me know if you have any problems.
79
« on: February 12, 2022, 07:22:35 AM »
Just wanted to mention that I've posted another member's shield design to the Downloads page, called the Baldock Shield by Richard Baldock. It is all through-hole components and while it does not include every last feature of the original TCB the advantage is that it is simple and inexpensive to build and would do the majority of what a lot of people would want. He has a thread about it also at RCTankWarfare if you want to read more.
80
« on: February 10, 2022, 04:51:49 PM »
I don't have no chips from the store, and here's the question. How to turn a chip removed from the board into an already flashed Arduino bootloader - as if it had just come out of the factory. How to clear the bootloader?
So that I can test my knowledge and check if everything is correct - did I do it on my board?
Hi NS, I always enjoy your humorous posts and Russian proverbs!  To answer your question, there is nothing you need to do to delete the bootloader that is already on your chip. If you follow the process in the documentation above, the old bootloader will be deleted automatically before the new one is loaded. In fact whenever we load a bootloader to a chip, it doesn't matter what bootloader, we always must start by erasing everything on the chip first, and then the new bootloader is written onto the blank chip. The erase and write process is taken care of by the "bootloader_batch_script.bat" file that you will find in the downloads above. Just follow the instructions and let me know if you have any questions! It's kind of complicated the first time you do it, but after a few tries is easy.
81
« on: February 09, 2022, 01:07:11 PM »
Can you tell me how to turn the Arduino chip - as if it were from the factory, so that I can try out how to flash the bootloader. I recently created a thread just for that topic, you can find it here: Flashing Bootloader to Blank ATmega2560If you have any questions about flashing the bootloader you can ask them in that thread. I also had problems in the OP Config version, which I translated into Russian.
There are problems in the section - reading the radio. The program stops showing the movement of sticks and switches.
Tell me where I should write to ask you a question. For this question it would be better to start a new thread in the Open Panzer Help area. Try to describe as best you can what problem you have and I will help you there.
82
« on: February 09, 2022, 12:34:08 PM »
Hi NS, you are right, the chip shortage is a real problem everywhere now.
Yes the LM1085 should work. The biggest difference I can see is that it has a larger "dropout voltage" of about 1.5 volts. This means that the output voltage could be up to 1.5 volts less than the input voltage (your battery). Depending on what kind of battery you are using, this could mean the regulator becomes unable to maintain 5 volts as the battery starts to get low. A 6-cell NiMH would be the most problematic, and you might find your board rebooting or just stopping before the battery is fully discharged. A 7 cell NiMH or a 2S LiPo should have no problems.
Another option if you can find it is MIC29310-5.0WU. They seem to be in stock at the EU Mouser. It has a maximum dropout voltage of 1 volt so is a little better.
The MIC29300 we used has a maximum dropout voltage of less than 1/2 volt which is really impressive, and is also why it was more expensive.
83
« on: January 31, 2022, 05:56:03 AM »
Yeah, that's normal, it doesn't remember the last position when rebooted. The recoil servo will remember, because there are only two positions for that one, but the elevation servo will always initialize at center.
84
« on: January 28, 2022, 02:36:36 PM »
TBS mini V1 the sound files load, and the prop files from the wiki load but the parameters file doesn't load and reports an error. on our mini V2 it works fine.
Firmware is up to date.
Do we have to load the parameters manually on the V1? Yes typically the user will have to enter the Parameters manually because they can be different for each person depending on which sounds you are using and in which order. However, I understand that after you have set the parameters to your liking you may wish to save a Parameter file (.tbp) for your own use. I have the same experience as you do - if the device is set to TBS Mini V1, TBS Flash will give me an error when I try to load a Parameter file, even if it is one I have just saved a few moments before. When the device is set to TBS Mini V2 then it loads the .tbp file without error. I don't know why TBS Flash is doing this but only Thomas can fix it. Also there are 3 different king tiger files are listed under the TCB what are the differences?
I am not sure why there are three King Tiger sound sets. My login to the Benedini downloads page no longer works so I can't see, but I wonder if he had a different set for each of the three devices (Micro, Mini V1 and Mini V2)? But then of course you would expect three sets for each tank. I think you will just have to try them yourself to see what the differences are, if any. I am sorry I can not be of more help with this issues but I think these questions will need to be addressed to Thomas himself.
85
« on: January 27, 2022, 03:16:01 PM »
Thanks Rad and Jürgen for jumping in to help.
Paul if you want to use 16 channels you will have to modify your 9X transmitter and use a different module than the one you bought. The 9X is very good after modifications, I agree with Rad about that. However if you don't want to do that work it might be better to start with a different transmitter. There are many options, but probably the FrSky Taranis QX7 or the Radiomaster TX12 would be the least expensive.
86
« on: January 17, 2022, 11:01:49 AM »
Hi Steve, I'm not immediately seeing any replacements that don't have several month lead times. Parts availability is getting to be a problem. That part is just four resistors side-by-side in a single package. You could just solder on four individual resistors side by side and it will work fine, but you will have to go to a smaller size for them to fit without touching each other, probably 0603 would work. I don't know what country you're located in, but here is a 150 ohm resistor in size 0603 from the US: RC0603FR-07150RL. Of course instead of 1 you'll need to buy 4.
87
« on: January 17, 2022, 06:08:43 AM »
Great, I'm glad that fixed it. ...can I use a linear servo for elevation and still use the pan effect in the same way as a regular servo? Yes, it will work the same!
88
« on: January 16, 2022, 12:51:24 PM »
Did you set the baud rate on the 2x60 using the utility on the "Misc" tab of OP Config? If so, you may want to try doing it again a lower baud rate, I believe the Wiki recommends 38400, but you can go all the way down to 9600. You change the baud rate for the Sabertooth by changing the value for "Serial 2" on the Misc tab, then use the "Sabertooth Baud Rate Tool" to write the setting to the Sabertooth.
89
« on: January 12, 2022, 08:16:20 AM »
Hi RockChuck, great work! I'm very impressed. I don't think you should feel bad at all about the 20% failure rate. I've assembled dozens and dozens of boards (the sound card but also TCB and Scout) and my average overall success is 2 out 3 that survived, so I'd say you did very well!
I agree that a special oven controller to get the heating curves just-so is not necessary, and wouldn't have made a difference with the problems you had with the amp chip anyway. I didn't even use an oven, just a hot plate. Then a temp probe like you had and I adjusted the temperature manually. The advantage of the hot plate is that it's much easier to see what is happening, but I suppose the disadvantage is that we are just heating the bottom of the board rather than the air all around. I've definitely burnt some.
The small chips are just difficult to get perfect for the reason you described, having the exact correct amount of solder paste and no more. I have found for the fine pitch parts it is better to err on the side of not enough paste than too much, but no matter what it's just difficult to do by hand with a stencil (the factories have a special machine that injects paste with a tiny needle and are much more precise). The amp chip is probably the hardest of all, but the processor on the TCB can also be a pain. I found it was usually easier to just do the processor by hand with a soldering iron, but that is not possible with the amp chip.
Most likely the problem with your amp chips is that some of the edge pins ended up bridged. If you have a magnifying glass you could inspect them, though it is sometimes hard to tell. If one pin is bridged with the pin next to it you can sometimes correct it with a fine tip soldering iron and some flux. I used MG Chemicals 8341 which comes in a syringe but I decant it into an even smaller syringe. However if a bridge occurred between one of the pins and the center pad underneath, then there is really no way to fix that. For that reason after wiping the board with solder paste I would usually remove most of it from the center pad of the amp and leave just a little dab in the very center.
Anyway you've done well. It's gratifying to see someone make and enjoy this project!
90
« on: January 09, 2022, 12:50:45 PM »
Very true!  And happy New Year to you as well
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