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Messages - LukeZ
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616
« on: September 29, 2018, 01:25:45 PM »
- Please use the attach image functionality of the forum to post pictures, rather than putting them in Word documents
- It looks like you are trying to play the sound using the Test feature with a jumper on RC input 1, is that correct?
- When you are viewing debug information from the sound card (or any other OP device), do not use the Connect button - instead use Snoop.
- Make sure your sound file is encoded as 16 bit 44,100 Hz. Open it in Audacity or some other audio program to confirm or convert it if need be.
617
« on: September 28, 2018, 10:42:37 PM »
Possibly. Read through the Wiki for the sound card to be sure you have not missed anything. Note the procedure for using it in RC mode is different then when controlled by serial via the TCB. In RC mode you must place all your settings in an INI file on the memory card, and there is a separate utility provided to help create this file. Again, there is documentation in the Wiki.
618
« on: September 28, 2018, 09:23:16 PM »
The behavior you describe with the LED sounds exactly like what is expected. I'm not sure what is wrong or what you need help with?
619
« on: September 28, 2018, 09:11:29 PM »
Hi Kees, that's a very ambitious project! You clearly are comfortable with electronics, hacking and modding, and I always like to hear about unique projects like yours. You basically built your own ESC from scratch so that is impressive.
620
« on: September 28, 2018, 03:44:21 PM »
You've done some good assembly work I can tell!
621
« on: September 26, 2018, 02:27:47 PM »
I'm afraid I wouldn't know, perhaps someone else will chime in. The traffic in this forum is not very high, you might have better luck asking this question at one of the European forums.
622
« on: September 23, 2018, 02:20:00 PM »
Great!
623
« on: September 23, 2018, 01:04:09 AM »
That is a very strange problem that doesn't make sense. Something is amiss with your setup. Obviously the second connection scheme that you describe is correct in terms of backwards and forwards. However, a right turn is always a right turn. The TCB sends the same right turn signal no matter whether you are stopped or moving.
I would connect to OP Config and click "Read Radio." Now move your throttle and steering stick and make sure the direction that you move the stick is reflected in OP Config - see the example below where I have moved my throttle forward and steering to the right, and OP Config shows Forward and Right. If OP Config does not match the actual direction, you should Reverse the channel(s) until it does. Then you may need to re-arrange the motor wires to your ESCs.
The other thing to be sure is that your ESCs do not have a brake setting turned on. They should be forward/reverse, not forward/brake/reverse.
See if any of that helps, and post back your results.
624
« on: September 21, 2018, 09:38:13 PM »
You should be good to go with all that!
625
« on: September 21, 2018, 01:57:11 PM »
Have you ever tried using an Arduino to program the bootloader? I personally have not tried that but there are tutorials online. A USBASP is only a couple dollars and would be less hassle. Another thing that makes life so much easier is an ISP pogo-pin adapter like this one from SparkFun.
626
« on: September 21, 2018, 02:18:04 AM »
Another thing that can make your life much easier, are pre-crimped JST PH cables, such as these 6" from Digi-Key: 455-3082-NDCombine with the easy-to-source 3-pin JST PH plug housings (you can find them on eBay and all over the internet), and you can quickly create the three-pin data cable that goes from the TCB to the Scout or Sound Card. Here they are at DigiKey for reference: 455-1126-NDThe larger JST XH cables that are used to provide power to these boards are much easier to find pre-made online and they are also large enough it is usually not a problem to crimp them by hand. But crimping the tiny PH connectors successfully is a near impossibility unless you have the exact right crimping tool.
627
« on: September 21, 2018, 02:10:19 AM »
From the photos that looks like a very good job and I expect you will find the board to be electrically sound.
Of the three designs the TCB is the most difficult to assemble due to the extremely small pitch of the processor. On the Scout the pin spacing on the processor is much wider and even if you do have some bridged pins they are simple enough to correct afterwards by hand with an iron and some flux.
The one possible pitfall to avoid when assembling the Scout is not to have too much paste on the large heat-pads of the motor driver ICs. If during reflow those short, it will not be good because of course afterwards you can no longer visually examine the underside of those chips, if they are shorted they will fry the chips, the chips are very difficult to remove without damaging the rest of the board, and they are the most expensive components. But from your photos I think you will be fine. You'll notice I also sized the stencil to be smaller than necessary on those heat-pads precisely to help avoid getting too much paste there.
If I had to be extremely nit-picky I might recommend taking one more pass with the scraper to try to get the thickness of the paste down as thin as possible, from what is shown in your second photograph. But again I think you will be fine. Most times the paste is very forgiving and during reflow will clean itself up where previously it looked a mess. However the less paste to begin with, the better.
You are correct, if you won't be using the RC functions you can leave those pins off.
Hopefully you are familiar with flashing the bootloader which must be done before anything else, afterwards you can upload firmware using OP Config as normal. There are various instructions available on the internet and it may also have been discussed already on this forum but if you have questions let me know.
629
« on: September 20, 2018, 07:58:19 PM »
They look good in red too! I designed the whole website around the shade of purple used by OSH Park, but in the end Hobby King sells them in a crummy hue that is half pink.
Good luck with the assembly, I'll be following your progress.
630
« on: September 20, 2018, 04:40:05 PM »
Ok, thank you Baichow because in the end you actually have identified a bug. The Taigen boards should accept 5 hits before being destroyed. This was confirmed for me by Imex-Erik over at Taigen. I have posted a new firmware update that should correct this problem (v0.93.42). You can download it and flash your board from within OP Config.
Long explanation for those curious: with the exception of Taigen, all other manufacturers send their IR signal multiple times for each cannon fire event. The purpose of this is to make it more likely for the receiving tank to detect the hit. The number of repetitions, and the length of the signal to begin with, all vary by manufacturer. Tamiya is the worst, they have a long signal and they repeat it 50 times, which equates to one full second. This has enabled the infamous Tamiya "fan-shot." It does make it easier for the opposing tank to register the hit, but maybe is a bit excessive.
On the other hand, Taigen is at the opposite extreme. They have a very short signal and they only send it once. Total time is 1/100th of a second for V2/V3 boards (was even shorter for V1 boards). When I first encountered this I thought, let's have the TCB repeat the signal several times, the way every other manufacturer does. I set it to repeat 6 times which is what Heng Long does. But this was a mistake, as you can now see. The Taigen board will register all six hits instantaneously, and since that is more than 5, it goes straight to destroyed. The other manufacturers, and the TCB, all know to ignore subsequent hits for a brief period of time after the first complete message is received, but the Taigen was never programmed to do so.
In short, the original problem is that I made what I thought would be an "improvement" based on an "assumption" about the way other manufacturers did things. And in fact, it caused this bug instead.
The fix was simple - tell the TCB to only sends the Tagien IR signal one time per shot. You should now be able to shoot your Taigen 5 times before it registers as destroyed.
Thanks again for helping me pinpoint this problem, and my apologies I didn't recognize it sooner. You were right to begin with!
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