Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - rockchuck

Pages: [1] 2
1
Show and Tell / HL T34 with tcb
« on: November 20, 2023, 03:28:46 AM »
just some pics to show you can fit a lot into a T34 with a bit of planning
cheers
rc


2
Open Panzer Help / Re: Binden Th9X
« on: February 14, 2022, 07:21:39 PM »
Hi kettenpaul
sorry to hear you have problems with your setup. I am using the latest version of Open Panzer Config which handles 16chans.
I have used on my Turnigy 9X AFHDS 2A radio firmware er9x as my radio only has the 64 processor (limited memory)on it so can't use all the additional functions you get in Open Tx.
So here is my setup.

Turnigy 9X AFHDS 2 A radio
er9x--vers: v1.747-Mike
         date: 30.11.2016
          sun: er9x-r820

Turnigy Rx TGY-iA6c connect Sbus out to TCB I bus port

Radio Protocol setup -
1st chan         :  1
Proto              : PPM  14chan  350uS
PPM Fr Length : 32.5mSec
Polarity           : Neg

MIXER settings for model
CH1  100Rud
CH2  100Ele
CH3  100Thr
CH4  100Ail
CH5  100 HALF ID2 & -100 HALF ID0
CH6  100 FULL TRN
CH7  100  P3 ON
CH8  100  FULL THR
CH9  100  FULL AIL
CH10 100 FULL ELE
CH11 100 P1 ON
CH12 100 P2 ON
CH13 100 FULL GEA
CH14 100 FULL RUD

With the above mixer settings this gives all switches and pots their own radio channel. Don't forget that you maybe able to modify your radio and convert one of the pots to a 6 way switch as the latest OP Config does have this option however if you have the low end processor you may not have enough memory or spare input pins on the processor to do it.
There may be a way to use a pot to preform a 6 way switch function by setting up curve points then assigning a virtual switch function to them-- I haven't done this yet just looking at possibilities.
cheers
rock

3
Open Panzer Help / Re: Binden Th9X
« on: January 29, 2022, 09:44:24 PM »
Hi Kettenpaul

I have two of the same radio as you. One with the standard firmware (will be upgraded) and one upgraded to ER9x firmware.

I have been able to get 14 chans out of the radio with the standard TX module with both types of firmware if you use a Turnigy IA6C PPM/SBUS AFHDS 2A receiver,  Hobbyking sell these.
I use the Ibus/Sbus connection on the Rx unit and connected that to the TCB I-bus connection. This gives me 14 chans in the TCB Radio config. This allows you to assign all the switches and pots on your radio to a unique radio chan.

This means you don't have to create any complicated Mixer settings in your radio just assign the switch you want to that chan and make sure you have the switch "weighting " set correctly.

Having firmware ER9x on your radio makes things a lot easier but you can make it work with the original firmware as there is no complicated mixing required. 

4
Open Source Sound Dev / Re: Building OP sound cards
« on: January 13, 2022, 07:59:10 AM »
Hi Luke
thanks for the vote of confidence!! It took me a while to work up the courage to attempt the reflow process. In the end that wasn't the hard part!

The critical points are getting the right amount of solder paste on the pcb using the stencil ( very important that it is clean first) but you can still get a bad result if you are a bit shaky getting the stencil off as you can smudge the tracks and get bridged joints.
 Your points about the amount of solder paste etc and scrapping the heat sink pad under the amp chip is very important for good results. As I said I think with a bit more practice I could get a better result.

I did have some bridge pins that I was able to fix with a fine tip soldering iron and a solder sucker. However it pays to check the circuit layout first because trying to fix bridged pins can sometimes make things worse. For example there are some adjacent pins on the amp chip that wouldn't matter if you did have a bridged joint as they are connected together via the rest of the cct so it would be best to leave them and not tempt fate.
For instance pins 1 & 2 connected together and then to speaker terminal and 17 & 18 to the other terminal. Pins 23 & 24 go to GND and pins 21 & 22 the same to GND.

So the boards that don't work I don't know if the amp chips are ok as the chip does have some protection in built against shorts etc. But at less than $4 a chip it is not worth the hassel reusing them to find out that they are stuffed.

5
Open Source Sound Dev / Building OP sound cards
« on: January 10, 2022, 06:03:19 AM »
Hello
I thought I would share my experiences with building the op sound cards. I had all the parts for a while before I decided to brave the build. I read many articles and watched a lot of you tube videos about using an oven for the reflow process. I did try to build a soundcard with a teensy and a cheap chinese 10 watt amp module-- which did work but very noisy and a bit of a mess with wiring etc. So that is when I committed to building the OP sound card and it was a big project for me as I intended to build 15 sound cards.

I bought the boards and a stainless steel stencil from OSH and all the other parts from various suppliers. Being in Australia the freight costs have been costly but just couldn't get everything from the one supplier as stocks weren't always available, some items being last time buy ie the SD card reader for example.

I have a pretty good workbench setup with various soldering iron stations, hot air rework system and also a  desoldering vacuum pump station and being a retired comms technician I know my way around electronic circuits etc.

So to the build. I use a ice cube tray to put the components for one board in it as I found it easy to get the components out and have it close by the board. I set the pcb up on a wooden bread board and stick it down with the supplied aids that OSH provided. The stainless steel stencil is easy to clean which is something very important as the amp chip is the problem device to get right with the reflow process. This component is the only item that has caused me problems. Getting the spread of solder on the board is not to hard but the amp chip is really a bit hit or miss. The main thing is not too much solder on it and maybe very little in the centre of the chip and then cross your fingers and hope for the best.
So I have had a 20 % failure rate as three of the 15 boards have no sound working. All the other functions work as per the LEDs but no sound. I did remove the chip from a board using my reflow hot air, then used the vacuum desoldering gun to clean the excess solder then fitted a new chip and reflowed with the hot air gun , but the device still didn't work. I checked all the supporting circuitry and everything buzzed out ok so just can't tell what is going on underneath the chip !!

I did look at making an arduino control heating unit for the oven so it would follow the reflow curves for the solder, however I watched a video where someone was just using a timer and a temperature probe and turning the oven off and on manually and they got good results.  So this is what I did and got good results for 80% of the time!! So I have three dead boards which are not repairable so I will strip what parts are reusable and throw the rest in the bin.

So was it worth it??
YES it sounds fantastic. I have been using the sound files from this site and with a decent speaker in a good box the tank roars to life!! Luke has done a great job with this device as it has loads of potential for you to customise your tank models. Just a bummer about the amp chip-- I think with more practice I could get better with the solder placement etc-- you really need to be precise when you drop the device onto the board. You can't push it around too much as you  will create shorts under the chip.
So I am short a couple of boards for my TCB units however I have got a few Taigen sound modules so I will use these in my Panzar 3's and also fit these with a Sabretooth serial dual motor drive units (5amp) as these should be ok for the smaller tanks.

cheers and happy tanking.

6
News & Announcements / Re: It's all over?
« on: May 27, 2020, 09:27:52 PM »
Hi -- I check in on this page a couple times a week-- not have anything to post just at the moment but maybe later as I,m in the process of making the sound cards. I'm looking into making a reflow oven at the moment. I don't think the Open Panzer is dead-- a lot of people use this site for the tech tips etc and the wiki. The TCB is still the best board out there for tank control.
happy tanking
 

7
Thanks Luke.
I got it going, there was a few mishaps-- I was sure I had loaded the sd card with the sound files--  anyhow I checked again and " no sound Files"!!  Anyhow I used the files you listed and tried again. The Teensy activity leds were showing all the right responses just no sound so rechecked all my connections and found the problem in a wiring issue. So once fixed I had sound!  Very happy chappy!! :D

I am using a PAM8610 amp module that I bought online for a few dollars. They are rated at 15 watt into 4 ohm  at 12 volts supply (but at about 10% distortion.).
 So can't have the input to amp up too much as it distorts. I am using a chan on the radio with a pot to control the volume.
Using the 2s supply in a tank which is 7.2volts the amp output is a lot lower around about 6 watts.  It is still quite loud as I'm testing with a Visation FSR7 speaker that has a sensitivity rating of about 88db --not bad for a small speaker.

There is quite a lot of background hiss/noise which I think is due to poor power supply coupling on the amp board as I move the cabling around and the noise levels change.
So my next stage is make a pcb for it which I can hand solder and work out how to fix the amp module to the board as I think you need to keep all the wires as short as possible.
I looked at building the OP Sound card but was a bit unsure about how I would cope with the smd components and with a complete kit with all the parts and a lot of postage charges each board would cost me $120 Aud to make so stuffing a board would be expensive-- I have 15 TCB units that I want to make sound cards for so it is too expensive to go this way.

I can make this stripped down bare bones board for about $50 Aud and I think the sound quality will be good enough. I may have to look at a mute cct that can disconnect the speaker when the TCB/ Sound card boots up as there is a lot of pops and cracks getting into the speaker before the unit is ready. I assume some of this is from the cheap amp board so some more investigation is required.

cheers
rockchuck

8
OK I got the Teensy loaded. My pc keeps telling me it can't load the driver but just ignore that, The issue was a sequence problem. When you go to Firmware in OP config and click on the Sound card tab, then click "get latest fw" there is no further prompt until you click the Flash" button then a warning pops up telling you to push the reset button on the teensy. Only it is too late!!! and the flash upload fails.

So when all else fails read the instructions!!! So went to Teensy site and for you to flash the Teensy you must push the reset button first !!  you will notice that the flashing led on the Teensy goes out (the flashing led is the default program) THEN you click on the Flash button in OP Config and then the bastard loads!!

OK so now I have the blue led on the Teensy sound card slowly blinking-- it turn hard on when I send command ie fire gun etc then when command is completed it goes back to slow blink. So something is working but no sound--so will do further investigation--stay tuned
cheers
rc

9
Thanks Luke.
I tried that but the Teensy won't connect. My pc came up with "failed to load driver file for Teensy".  Where do i find the drivers I need for this as my pc won't recognize the Teensy so the OP software can't make a connection.

thanks
rockchuck

10
Hi Luke
I have built a prototype  sound card on a breadboard with a teensy and the add-on SD card board that stacks on top of it.  I am using a 10 watt amp module bought from ebay cheap and I have the 5 volt supply etc on the board and the activity leds.
I can't get the OP software to recognize the teensy although the led is lite on the teensy but the activity leds are dark.

How do I get the OP Sound card firmware into the Teensey I assume this is required. The installation details for the sound card are a bit vague. I have loaded the test sound files with the correct file names etc on the sd card and inserted that into the Teensy.   Does the Teensy firmware get uploaded over the serial port from the TCB?? If so how do you initiate that??
Access to the reset button on the Teensy with the SD board stacked on top is not a problem provided you use suitable height riser pins to solder the two boards together.

Thanks
rockchuck

11
Show and Tell / Re: TCB in KingTiger
« on: April 13, 2018, 03:25:12 AM »
The reason behind the protection fuse is really about protecting your tank from an extreme over current situation.
I'm not just trying to protect the motor or the esc-- but the whole tank.
We have battery technology that can deliver large amounts of current. The LiPo in my KT can deliver burst currents of 60 amp.

What conditions could make this situation happen. Well a short circuit is the likely cause. Without a fuse you have these currents flowing through your Tank's wiring until the short circuit ceases-- ie is burnt out. There is a high chance that depending on how long that situation goes on for will decide if your expensive tank goes up in flames.

So the wiring in the tank for the power cable I have is rated for 25 amps for a reasonable amount of time but it would not withstand 60amps being pulled thru it.
This situation could occur in the motor for example-- the motor has stalled however the operator has still got the throttle on trying to clear the obstruction etc -- the motor will get hot and can reach a point where the coating on the copper wire windings melt and then you have a short circuit. A short circuit will draw the full amount of battery supply until the short circuit is destroyed usually by fire.
If you have a correctly rated fuse for your installation it will do it's job and stop the extreme over current event and save your tank from going up in flames.
I have experienced this with standard Heng Long tanks with the RX18 board. What happens there is the stalled motor wants more current that the FETS on the RX18 board can deliver and they go up in smoke.

I have fitted fuses to some of my HL tanks (not all yet) and that saved my HL Sherman from burning out the RX18 board. I had a stalled condition where a stick got caught in the tracks and I didn't see it as I was about 20m away. The fuse did it's job-- it was a 8 amp fuse -- I could up this to 10amp ok as the Fets on the rx18 board are good for 12 amp but with no fan and enclosed in it's case I figured 8amps would be a bit safer.

I also fly RC planes and have seen motors burn out. We had a training glider fitted with a buddy wireless control system that was belly landed however the throttle control was left on the Master radio and the prop was stalled into the ground so that motor just kept trying to turn the prop until it burnt out as the battery was happy to supply as much current as  the short circuit in the motor wanted.  It got very hot and the foam started to sag around the nose.   

So it is a safety precaution- a battery under short circuit conditions will deliver huge currents-- look at your car that has fuses-- why not in our tanks!

12
Show and Tell / Re: TCB in KingTiger
« on: April 12, 2018, 09:18:45 PM »
Hi Chris
yes I did look at the SabreTooth controllers but they are very expensive and although the overall footprint size is smaller than the two X45 esc next to each other it was still difficult to find enough space to fit the Sabretooth. With the X45 esc they are quite small and so can be located anywhere around the tank to take use of smaller spaces, it just makes the wiring a bit more messy. Also the X45 esc are very cheap.

One thing I not sure about is how much current the gearbox motors can take. They have no rating on them and so with the X45 being able to deliver 45amps you could be in a stall situation or uphill etc and burn the motors out. That is why I fused the ESC's with a 25 amp fuse.

cheers
rockchuck

13
Show and Tell / Re: TCB in KingTiger
« on: April 03, 2018, 08:24:48 PM »
Hi Johnny

the speaker is 50mm size and is rated at 10 watts 8 ohm. see link for detailshttps://www.jaycar.com.au/shielded-2-10w-8-ohm-full-range-speaker/p/AS3032

I had to use this size because I had limited room for anything bigger like a Visaton- this is because the airsoft unit protrudes into the lower hull and requires a lot of space to clear the unit when you rotate the turret around.

These speakers are cheap compared to the Visaton but the sensitivity on them is only 78dB as compared to Visaton frs7 which is 88dB. So that's 10db which is a lot --so what that means is at a 1 watt input to the speaker it will produce 78db of sound pressure level (spl) loudness whereas the frs7 being 10db more sensitive will only require one tenth of a watt -- 0.1watt to be as loud as the Jaycar speaker so for a given size amplifier the more sensitive speaker will always sound louder.  This has nothing to do the what the speaker is rated at in power handling watts. It always good policy to get the right rating to match your amp.

Mounting the TCB in the Torro KT hull is a bit limited. The TCB will fit across the hull ok but the problem is the connections on the end of the TCB ie-- the RC and radio connectors-- by the time you plug these in you have increased the length of the TCB by some 30% and it won't fit across the hull. I toyed with the idea of desoldering the rc connectors and replacing them with upright pins and doing the same for the radio connector although that would be a bit more difficult to do -- you would have to bend the pins up somehow.

It does work ok with how I have done it but means using the smaller speaker. If you look at my pic at the batteries you will some some foam installed to stop them from moving -- this would give you enough space to fit the Open Panzar sound card. This is another reason why I choose the small speaker as I intend to make these sound boards soon.

I mounted the ESCs for the motors so they could access the open vents in the upper hull for cooling. The aluminium  L bracket holding the switches is a loose fit over the plastic boss for the rear hull plate so you don't have to drill holes in your tank. I then use some foam as a washer to take up the slack so it didn't move around and rattle.

Good luck with your build and don't forget to post some pics.

cheers
rockchuck

14
Show and Tell / TCB in KingTiger
« on: April 01, 2018, 10:50:01 PM »
Hi tankers
I finally finished the install on the Kingtiger. This has a Torro metal hull and running gear and metal tracks. It has a HengLong upper hull with a BB turret but I have parts to build another turret which will be IR so I can swap between the two.
This means I will have the upper hull wiring setup to use either the BB/IR option so should just be plug and play.

So what about the driving test with the TCB and a Taigen sound board.
Fantastic is the word to use. The low speed control is unbelievable. Slow turns etc look very life like. I am yet to play around with the different drive settings- some of these you can setup on your radio to swap between so I will do that as it makes it easier to see the difference when driving.

The only issue I have is with the turret rotation. I have this connected to motor port A and when I turn the turret I noticed that the TCB will shut down.  I can still move the turret but I have to restart the engine to get the sounds back, I haven't got the shut off timed function activated so I think because the turret is very large and the motor is drawing perhaps excess current to drive it (I think some wiring maybe in the way and the BB unit hits them and then pushes thru needing more current)  and this robs the tcb of power and causes the shut down.
I will do some more tests -- the airsoft unit does protrude into the lower hull a long way especially if you have the barrel fully elevated-- when I get the IR turret working this won't have that problem so we shall see.
I am going to buy the turret ring (metal) that has the ball-bearings on it as this will help the reduce the turning force required so may fix the problem.

The wiring took a while to work out. I ended up installing a larger capacity main switch and have fused the motor feeds with a 25amp fuse and fused the TCB with a 5 amp fuse.

Anyhow the Tcb is great -- you have a very good control over all the functions and you can customize for each tank-- well done Luke and co. Now to get started on the others.

cheers
rockchuck



15
Open Panzer Help / Re: check TCB visually before power up!!
« on: March 22, 2018, 09:34:07 AM »
Hi Luke
I did try your method with the flux and the soldering iron and it worked!!
I got the unit working and was able to do the update etc and load my default settings and the unit operated perfectly so thanks again.

By the way I went and bought another 4 TCB boards from the Hobbyking Australian warehouse and they are still repaired boards, but I carefully checked them before I powered up and they all work fine .

cheers
rockchuck

Pages: [1] 2