Open Panzer

Open Panzer Help & Info => Open Panzer Help => Topic started by: tankme on January 17, 2020, 12:01:49 PM

Title: Power switch questions
Post by: tankme on January 17, 2020, 12:01:49 PM
I recently preemptively bought some higher amp rated power switches (20A) to use with my TCB and Hobbyking X-car 45A ESCs since the HL switch was giving me issues.  After wiring up the 20A switch I noticed issues when running the tracks.  I used the blade terminals and soldered wires to blade connectors rather than heat up the switch by soldering to it.  Wanted to make sure the heat wasn't a factor in killing the switch.  The tracks were stopping and starting at the same time the TCB would reset playing the engine startup sounds.  During further troubleshooting I noticed the switch light would dim and brighten up leading me to believe the power switch can't handle the battery feeding the ESCs through the switch.  I bypassed the switch and everything works fine. 

My question is, what kind of power switches are people using since it seems the HL and my automotive 20A switch don't work?
Title: Re: Power switch questions
Post by: LukeZ on January 18, 2020, 04:41:33 AM
I don't know what tank and gear you're running but the odds are that a 20 amp switch is more than adequate for the current you're pulling. More than likely you just have a flaky connection somewhere, possibly at the blade terminals, or it could just be a cheap or defective switch. You could try soldering directly to the switch to see if that helps, or try a higher quality switch (a lot of the really cheap Chinese stuff sold on discount sites is not very good, but I don't know where you got your switch).

I've mostly just manually plugged/unplugged the battery instead of use a switch but that is certainly not very convenient.

Keep trying, using a switch is certainly possible, HL and Taigen use the cheapest possible tiny switch you can imagine and they run fine.
Title: Re: Power switch questions
Post by: tankme on January 18, 2020, 08:10:37 PM
Well I bypassed the switch and it works fine.  Had the tank out for a spin today after rewiring it minus the switch.  The wires were soldered (not crimped) into the blade connectors so I doubt it was a connection issue.  The switch was an automotive type I picked up at a local auto parts place.  I guess I'll just connect the batter via the XT60 connection as I'm doing now and not worry about it.  I suppose most people would use a relay if they need to switch higher amp loads and I don't want to add the extra wiring/relay.