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Topics - Lotuswins
1
« on: January 01, 2022, 10:32:36 PM »
Hi Luke,
Happy holidays to you and yours!!
So I just got a new laptop from Dell, with windows 11 on it and I'm having some issues with OP Config. When I select 'Get Latest Release' I get a different hex file name each time, like TCBMK1_99-61-99.hex which is only 1kb in size. The names vary in the numbers only, and of course, they won't flash since they apparently have little to no content. But if I select 'use your own hex', I can see the older versions and they will flash. Also, I can download the latest hex manually and it will flash.
Another oddity is that in the file manager, if I try to see what is in the folder where the hex files exist, they won't show unless I have manually downloaded it, but OP will show all that are there....
I guess windows 11 is a little different??
Anyways I got it working okay, but just wondering what is going on.
Thanks,
Jerry
2
« on: August 05, 2020, 01:31:30 PM »
Hi all,
Thought I'd share the cradle for the FatFingers DIY board.
Jerry
3
« on: May 11, 2020, 04:48:59 PM »
So I've been making remote volume control for some time, using a cheap servo and the stock potentiometer for HL or Taigen. Unfortunately this in line configuration doesn't give full rotation, the pot having a 270 degree sweep, and the servo only giving 120 degrees. Enter a newly given 3D printer for my birthday, and having learned a little CAD on Fusion360, and finding an insert into the program to do spur gears, I've assembled this configuration which gives full travel:
The long M3 screws are 25mm long, you have to drill the gears to fit the pot and servo splined shafts, but be careful as you don't want to drill all the way through. When assembling, plug both the servo and the pot into the tank, and turn the pot clockwise until the volume just goes to zero, and using the transmitter turn the servo counter clockwise all the way and then pop the large gear onto the servo. Test to ensure it travels smoothly all the way to both stops. The cover keeps you from jamming any wires into the gears.
It fits rather well into a crook or cranny in the tank pretty easily.
I'll load the .stl files next post.
Jerry
4
« on: March 31, 2020, 04:44:05 PM »
Hi Luke,
I'm turning my attention to the sound card now, since I have my FatFingerTCB at OSH for prototype trial, and am wondering if it is possible for us fat fingered folks to solder the micro SD socket on the board by hand? If not too easy, then is there an alternative??
Thanks, Jerry
5
« on: January 04, 2020, 09:11:27 PM »
Hi Luke,
I hope your holidays were pleasant.
I'm working on fine tuning the recoil on my TCBs, but I can't seem to get it right.
I have a T55A by Hooben with a Clark TK22 board that its only redeeming quality is the recoil. The tank will not move, but rocks back on the suspension as the barrel retracts, and this is the best recoil action of all my tanks.
When adjusting the TCBs, the deceleration factor at level one is too wimpy, but when I boost the velocity percent, the tank will then move back too far. Would it be possible to get a smaller increment of deceleration factor so I can boost the velocity up and get it to rock back? As Kevin at RCTanks Australia used to describe it as a "Jab back" for a proper recoil action.
Thanks, and I hope things are well in France. Jerry
PS: I tried to upload a short .MOV file, but apparently that isn't allowed. I guess a U-tube video is the only option?
6
« on: September 21, 2019, 03:37:09 PM »
Hi Luke,
I am having difficulty getting the turret elev, and rotation motors to work on my King Tiger.
Tank specs:
Taigen brand gearboxes w/sabertooth 2x5a
Sbus receiver Frsky XSR and 9x radio with XJT module
NiMh battery
Stock Taigen elev/rot motors
Taigen airsoft cannon
Taigen sound card
Smoker unplugged
IR mushroom receptacle\IR emitter
OPTCB Dip Sw: Off/Off/On/On/On
Fight/repair sw to fight
The elevation and turret motors test okay with 7.2v battery
Wiring is tested okay
Noticed these anomalies:
1) When in snoop mode, even though radio is calibrated per instructions the elevation (ch3) and rotation (ch4) channel calibration per snoop is off a bit: low was calibrated to 989, but snoop shows 1024, and high was calibrated to 2012 but snoop shows 1976. The throttle and turn channels calibrated and snoop agree.
2) When engine/transmission is disengaged and operating the stick for elevation or rotation results in no sound for either. Which is counter to other tanks. When engine/transmission is engaged, I get sound but no output to the elevation nor rotation motors.
I measure 0.165 volts on DC scale at the outputs of either A or B motor output, regardless of stick position.
All other functions seem to operate okay.
The last flash operation I performed was the DIY hex load to my arduino mega, last week....which seemed to go okay.
This has to be something simple I've overlooked? this TCB was just moved from my StugIIIG to the King Tiger but worked okay previous to this move.
Am I missing something obvious?
As a side note, and if you want I'll put it into a different topic, I now get an error when updating to the new OPConfig. It says: Shell execute Code 299. Only part of ReadProcessMemory or WriteProcessMemory was completed. It comes up temporarily after Windows tries to block the program, and you have to tell it that it is okay. The OPConfig execute file then loads it all up okay.
I don't know if this is part of the issue?? I would attach the .opz file, but alas, this program can't access .opz files for some reason....is there a trick I must have forgotten?
Thanks, Jerry
7
« on: February 20, 2019, 11:46:21 AM »
Hi Luke,
So I've had a recurring problem with motor noise I believe. What will happen is I'll be driving a tank around, and I'll have the smoker running or elevating the gun, etc., and I will get a 'hit' sound and the drive motor will go into reduced speed just like when in battle and you get hit by another tank via IR.
This morning I got it while driving my almost completed SU152 which has no IR installed as yet, and only the smoker (new Taigen V2 unit) was running.
A couple of questions:
Is there a way to return the TCB to normal status after a hit without having to go to the tank and cycle the power switch?
Are there better ways to filter motor noise from interacting with the TCB other than the normal 0.01uf caps that come installed from the factory? Or possibly a better quality size 130 motor that would not be so susceptible to noise?
I've disassembled several of the small motors, cleaned the comms, and brushes, and put new caps on with some success but not always. Often the little motors will only have a single cap between the brushes, and one brush tied to the motor case, since it is normally isolated from any ground/frame element.
Thanks as always, keep up the great work!!
Jerry
8
« on: October 30, 2018, 02:11:11 PM »
Hi Luke, Since I'm between model builds, and I read somewhere that a booster for the smoker would help it make more or more consistent smoke, I bought these little things the other day off amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWSV89D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They seem to be able to keep up with the 2.1 amp load of the Taigen smoker, but then wondered actually how to incorporate one into the TCB smoker output. Since it is a pulsed output to the smoker (right?), the regulator on the booster would probably not like it? So perhaps the way to go is to separate the heater from the pump motor, and connect it to the AUX output with the booster in series? Then adjust the booster output until steady smoke appears, and the pump would be regulated by the smoker output? Think this is the way to go?? This should help with smoker output regardless of battery voltage. Am I on to something or is this just wishful thinking? Both smoker and Aux would be toggled from the same function. Jerry
9
« on: October 24, 2018, 04:32:03 PM »
Hi again Luke,
Sorry for the bother, but I just updated the OP Config, and now it doesn't take me to where my files are stored (Programfiles (x86)>Openpanzer>OPConfig), but instead goes directly to Desktop? How can we set the default location so we don't have to track down the file location each time? The earlier version would take me right there each time.
Thanks, Jerry
10
« on: October 17, 2018, 10:16:08 PM »
Hi Luke,
Well after a couple of hours working on the issue of the TCB starting out with the airsoft switch (channel 5 on my 9x's) enabled when it was in the disabled position, I finally discovered it was the 'trigger with cannon' box in the MOTORS SECTION;MECHANICAL BARREL of the OP config. I had it checked even though the note next to it said 'if unchecked use function trigger'. I had reasoned how else can you trigger the airsoft?? so left it checked. Anyway, apparently it overrides the position of the switch assigned to it.
Not sure if you want to fix this? or just leave it as apparently I'm the only idiot who has had the problem (dooh!!)
Thanks, Jerry
11
« on: July 22, 2018, 05:05:59 PM »
Hi all,
I just thought I'd share my experiences this morning with my recently built from bits and pieces Taigen KV2. I was having trouble keeping it going in that it would stop sometimes, the engine sound dying slowly away as it stopped responding to throttle inputs. It would restart by pushing the start from the transmitter but if I tried to go fwd, it would die again. Sometimes it would go forward, but if I tried reverse, it would die again. Somewhat sporatic but in the end it simply stopped wanting to move at all. So I tried troublshooting by:
Swapped in the following from known good sources thinking perhaps glitching or problems were in the bits and that the sound was dying slowly like the TCB was getting a command to stop:
Reciever/PWM-PPM converter
Cables to above
TCB
Then removed the Benedini sound card cables/power to the amp from the BEC of the TCB.
Still no joy, finally I swapped out the Sabertooth 5A controller, which is brand new and I thought pretty solid.....bingo. Unfortunately I didn't have another to swap in so I put the old 45A HK ESCs in its place. So now the tank is back in business though it doesn't quite drive as well.
No smoke was released during the failure of the controller, which makes me think perhaps it is that the heavy tank simply overworked the overcurrent sensor in the board? Anybody else had this happen?? This is a very recent purchase of the sabertooth, and I had to wait a while for it to finally be reproduced since I assume all stocks were out from the usual sources.
Specs on the KV2:
Taigen 380 motors on BB 4:1 steel gearboxes.
Benedini Mini with JS2 sounds and Adafruit tiny amp working off BEC 5v power (2.5w)
Turnigy 9x Xmtr and Rcvr with HK PWM to PPM converter
3000mah NiMh battery
All metal chassis, wheels, sprockets and tracks
Anyone else had issues with the recent batch of Sabertooth 5A serial controllers?
12
« on: July 06, 2018, 01:53:45 PM »
Hi Luke,
So on my KV2, just set up as you know, with TCB, HK 45A ESCs, Taigen sound card, 4:1 BB Taigen gears. When trying to go into reverse it will go in about 1/2 the time, when it won't reverse, the sound will rev up but no movement. I then have to release the stick and try again and it will back up. This happens almost every other time. In addition, the track recoil will happen about 1/2 the time.
I have no delays in the transition/engine/transmission engagement, reverse speed at 70%.
So I found I can make it happen when I want by simply nudging the throttle fwd, then try for reverse and it won't go in but sound and red light on TCB only. It will happen every time if I repeat this. If I then reverse again directly after the first try to reverse then it will reverse. I thought perhaps it was a deadband issue, so I moved the deadbands for steering and throttle up to 35, but to no effect, it will still do the same issue.
Could this be a setup issue with the HK ESCs??
Thanks, Jerry
13
« on: June 30, 2018, 02:58:34 AM »
Hi All,
I've run across something I can't explain, nor understand. Here is the background:
I'm assembling a KV2 from bits I've purchased from multiple vendors. I'm using the OP TCB, HK 45A ESCs, and Taigen gearboxes. In assembling the components in the metal chassis from Taigen, I nestled the ESCs between the 4:1 gearboxes by servo taping them together on their bottoms, and soldering the outputs directly to the motors. I then soldered the inputs together on a Dean's connector that connected to the switch in the normal fashion (left switch pole to black/negative, center pole to ESCs & TCB, and right pole to Battery). It is quite a compact arrangement, and I thought it would be great having the ESC's and gearboxes so neatly arranged leaving the rest of the chassis available for the TCB, speaker, etc.
So, the anomaly:
When I connected the battery up to the completed arrangement, the switch failed on overcurrent. So I replaced the switch after checking for shorts, and boom, the next failed. Suspecting an undersized switch, I installed one with more current capacity. The solder joint on the switch positive melted off.....wtf?? I checked all wiring for shorts, nothing. All wiring is sound. So I re-soldered the positive lead, and tried again, and the wiring got VERY warm, ESC's LEDs did not turn on, so I disconnected quickly.
Then I connected the battery directly to the ESC combination, and they both lit the LEDs, made the appropriate noises (they make a few tones upon energizing) and sat there waiting for instructions from the TCB. So I connected the switch up again, and bingo, the problem resurfaced.
So I connected in a series 10A fuse, and it will blow every time I try to use the switch. I've checked continuity between all the connections, wiring, switch poles, etc. all not showing any shorts or anything.
I've either run across a resonance issue due to the bottoms being so close in proximity, or the charging current of the these ESC's is too great for the wiring to surmount due to voltage drop in the wiring and switch. I have used these ESCs on two other installations with no problems, though they don't have the bottoms servo taped together.
Anyone have any explanations on what I am experiencing?? I didn't think the ESCs should have a charging current of this magnitude. I've connected them both up individually to the battery directly, no proplem, but individually with the switch...it will blow the 10A fuse every time. Perhaps a bad batch of ESCs??
I'll continue to test, but right now I'm going back to purchasing Sabertooth products.
Jerry
14
« on: April 28, 2018, 05:20:28 PM »
Hi Luke,
Now that my T55A, Panzer F, and Elefant are all OP powered and working great, I thought I would try to get my StugIII going on it rather than going back to the TK22 that I had in it before. So, everything is wired up, and as with the Elefant, I'm using the 45A ESC's by Hobbyking to power the two 260 motors w/positive removed from servo plugs. I can get it to start, shoot cannon (Airsoft not hooked up yet, nor are the lights and IR stuff).
The problem is when I go forward on the throttle, it will start moving but then will shut down, complete with shut down sounds. It will eventually start back up, but will repeat. These are pretty small motors, but I could do a measurement on current, but it is curious that I'm getting a shutdown sound like I am doing it on command. Is there something internally I am triggering that will give it the shutdown sequence? I'm on a NiMh battery freshly charged. Shutdown is set at 6.3 volts. BEC is rock solid at 5.0 volts.
Any ideas?
thx, Jerry
15
« on: April 25, 2018, 09:30:37 PM »
Hi All,
I just got the Mini installed with the new adafruit amp into my T55A. It came all pre-programmed from Thomas, ready to go. Okay, now it seems I'm getting a random turret sound that goes off when it wants to, not a solid noise, but it skips a bit in what seems a random sequence, like its floating and needs to be tied down.
Since we don't need to 'teach' the mini joystick positions any longer, any ideas on what could be going on? I've emailed Thomas, who should get back to me soon, but was wondering if anyone else has had something similar?
Jerry
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