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Messages - LukeZ
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586
« on: December 02, 2018, 10:32:12 PM »
Thank you very much Mitch for posting the solution, it's always appreciated when other users provide answers for each other!
587
« on: December 02, 2018, 10:27:51 PM »
This is a strange set of symptoms, but everything else seems to be working as it should, so I suspect the problem is ultimately something very simple. My best guess is that you need to swap the polarity of your motor wires where they connect to the ESCs.
Just to be sure, I would recommend first performing the radio setup routine once more, in case your settings were not saved to the TCB or were overwritten accidentally. When you perform Radio setup, make sure the each stick not only controls the correct channel that you intend it to, but that when you move the stick up, for example, that OP Config confirms "Forward", or that when you move the stick right, OP Config confirms "Right." If it doesn't, then re-order the channels in OP Config, or check the "Reverse" checkbox, until OP Config confirms the exact behavior that you expect.
When you complete Radio Setup watch the status bar at the bottom of the screen to be sure the settings are written to the TCB.
Now confirm again that you have the left motor ESC plugged into RC Output 1 on the TCB, and the right motor ESC plugged into RC Output 2 on the TCB. I have gotten myself confused before because the motor that drives the right gearbox for example is facing to the left, so it doesn't hurt to double-check you have it right.
Now give it a test. Push the stick forward without any turning. Both tracks should move in the forward direction. If they don't, swap the polarity of the motor where it connects to the ESC (don't swap the ESCs themselves). I think this will fix your problem, but if not, post back and let us know.
588
« on: December 01, 2018, 04:29:17 PM »
would the GSU fom 35rc tank work?? I had not looked into their products before, but thanks for bringing it to my attention. Those guys have some impressive stuff. There is no technical information available on their products, and of course they are not running an open-source enterprise. I've sent them an email to see if they would like to collaborate and will keep you posted.
589
« on: December 01, 2018, 03:56:07 PM »
This sounds like a setup issue within your transmitter itself. I'm assuming you're using the stock Turnigy firmware on your transmitter, which I am not familiar with. You'll need to go into the transmitter menus and make sure channels 5-8 are assigned to distinct physical controls, right now it sounds like they are all mixed to a single toggle. Look at Page 13 of this manual under the heading "Aux-CH" and see if you can modify that menu on your radio. Also, the specs on the iA8 receiver are a bit unclear on the Hobby King website. They say it supports four output types - regular PWM, PPM, SBus and iBus. That seems unlikely to me, not that it doesn't work, just that as usual Chinese documentation/instructions are poor. You may need to experiment with the different protocol settings in the transmitter (I don't know what they will be, I don't have this radio myself, but just try the different ones and see if that makes a difference). I know of at least one other user with this same radio, but he upgraded the transmitter firmware to er9x so his comments won't be of much help to you, but he indicates he did get it to work with the stock firmware also.
590
« on: December 01, 2018, 03:27:06 PM »
Hi Jerry, finally got around to adding this functionality in the latest release (v0.93.42). OP Config will now remember where you last saved/opened an OPZ file, it defaults to the desktop the first time you run it but afterwards remembers wherever you went to last.
It will also now remember whether you prefer to have the header shown/hidden.
As always, let me know if you have any issues.
591
« on: November 20, 2018, 04:14:06 PM »
Great! 
592
« on: November 19, 2018, 11:31:41 PM »
Ok! There actually was a bug, the dreaded "=" vs "==" in an obscure statement. I stared for many hours before I found it. The bug only affected cars and halftracks when the drive type was set to ESC.
Sergey I have posted a TCB firmware update (v0.93.44) that should correct this issue. Please re-flash your TCB and let me know if it works.
By the way, for cars and halftracks the steering servo should always work even when the engine is off.
593
« on: November 19, 2018, 11:59:42 AM »
Hi Sergey, just wanted to let you know I've seen your question. I will try to replicate on my end, and if I encounter the same behavior, will track the bug. The fact it works with the onboard controller leads me to suspect it is not a bug, but who knows.
I am very busy this week so I don't know if I will get to it right away. I'll let you know when I do.
594
« on: November 04, 2018, 10:12:35 PM »
I don't think the Taigen/Heng Long smokers have a great reputation for longevity generally, though it seems like I have read that as of a few years ago the Taigen's were slightly higher quality. It used to be half the HL smokers burnt out the minute you turned them on.
For sure I do know that if the fluid level ever gets low they will certainly burn out. They need to be soaked in fluid in order not to overheat.
595
« on: October 30, 2018, 08:48:16 PM »
A couple comments. First, the downside of having the heating element powered in parallel with the fan/smoker motor is that at low speeds, the heating element is not going to get as hot as it will at full throttle. It very well could be the case that your source battery has plenty of voltage to create as much smoke as you want, but the way the standard smoker is wired full voltage only gets to the heating element when you're going full speed. At all other speeds it is getting something less. So the easiest thing to do is wire the heating element separately to its own on/off circuit so it's always either full on or off, not halfway, as you suggest. But when it's full on you may find you don't need the voltage booster. - You could connect the heating element directly to the Aux output which can probably handle the current, but recall, the Aux output is capped at 5 volts (rather than full battery voltage). So that may not be enough.
- You could wire it directly to one of the Motor A or B outputs (if those are free in your implementation), and use the Motor A/B on-off digital functions to treat it as a high-current switch (no more than 2 amps). The motor outputs give full battery voltage.
- You could use a relay on one of the general purpose outputs and turn that on/off, with the relay connected to your source battery.
If your source battery voltage is not enough to give you the smoke you want, then you can experiment with a voltage booster, but I would not use the smoker output (because of the pulsed signal and also for the reason mentioned above, it is not always full voltage). Nor would I use the Aux output because again that is limited in voltage to begin with as well as current. The way the voltage booster works is that it basically converts current to voltage, you don't get extra voltage for free. Instead, I would toggle the voltage booster with a relay controlled by one of the general purpose outputs. But now we are involving lots of extra bits and bobs. The best way to increase the heat output of the heating element is not to increase voltage, but to decrease the resistance of the element itself. This will cause the current going through it to increase as per Ohm's law, even though voltage remains constant. The standard resistor used in Taigen/Heng Long heaters is 18 ohms, you could try something less and increase the current (heat) generated. Resistors can be bought for pennies on DigiKey and elsewhere. You want to get one with a relatively high power rating (in watts) so the resistor doesn't just burn up, but of course there are size limitations you are working with as well and if you it is rated too highly it won't heat up sufficiently. Some experimentation would be in order, there were a couple threads back in the day on RCUniverse and RCGroups where guys including myself were goofing off with various resistors. Values from 5-12 ohms were tried, usually with ratings of 1 to 2 watts. Maybe there are more recent experiments recorded in other threads if you do a search.
596
« on: October 29, 2018, 05:24:05 PM »
Yeah, that won't work, I need to make a change within OP Config so that it remembers your last location. Right now it is hard-coded to the Desktop. Before that I was just leaving it up to Windows, apparently your Windows was nice enough to remember your last location, but my Windows was no so nice and invariably took me to some deep sub-folder that was useless.
I haven't had much time recently but this is on my list for when I get back to it.
In the meantime as a work-around you could put a shortcut to your preferred folder on your desktop, at least then it will be a quick double-click to get to it.
597
« on: October 25, 2018, 01:01:06 PM »
There was indeed a deliberate change made in this area recently. The behavior you previously had is not universal, specifics of your Windows setup also have an effect and for some it would not save the last location or the last location was not where you would want it. Forcing it to the desktop was a convenient solution for me, but I will think about how it might have been done better and let you know if I make an update.
598
« on: October 24, 2018, 04:35:33 PM »
Just a quick question though, where exactly do the radio settings/reads reside? are they included in the .opz file? or do they only reside in the TCB? When I just updated the firmware, I had to re-read the radio for some reason...not sure why, maybe like you said my firmware was a little out of date though no message occurred. Only got one that said to check OPConfig for updates. The radio settings like all the others are included in the OPZ file (as well as on the TCB naturally, when you write the OPZ file to it). This particular update (v0.93.43) doesn't cause an erasure of settings which is why it doesn't say anything about it, but that's only relative to the last update (0.93.42). Your TCBs were all the way back on 0.93.07, so as I said before, there were intermediate updates between 93.07 and 93.43 that would cause your settings to be erased. Oh, and I cycled the #5 switch on the board, and snoop comes up right away now....I cycled the other 4 too, just to be sure and it seems one has a weak spring (#2) as it doesn't snap from side to side like the others.....perhaps a dodgy switch. Is CHE a brand for those?? I'll let it be for now, but if it continues I'll have to change it out. Any others report a problem with the dip switch? I have seen one other report of a faulty dipswitch, see here. No doubt Hobby King is using a cheap component, I guess the good news is we don't need to use them much after their initial setting. I'm not familiar with CHE brand. If yours remains flaky you could try to short the two pins of the #5 switch. This will cause it to be permanently set to ON meaning it will always communicate over USB.
599
« on: October 24, 2018, 02:00:11 PM »
Ok, that did it. What a long investigation this has been! Of all things the issue was caused by having LVC enabled. A bug in the firmware skipped the first initialization of aux channel triggers only when LVC is active. I usually don't have it on because I do most of my testing with USB power only on the bench, so that is why I never saw it.
I've released a firmware update (v0.93.43). It won't erase saved settings but looking at your debugs your TCBs are a few versions behind so I think one of the intermediate releases probably will erase your settings, therefore be sure to save OPZ files before you do the update, and then re-write your settings.
After the update, you should be able to confirm that with A) LVC enabled, B) Trigger with Cannon checked, and C) your airsoft switch in the disabled position, your TCB should load up with the airsoft actually and truly disabled. If you watch Snoop it may say that the airsoft is enabled during the dump but immediately after the dump it will read your switch and set it to disabled.
Let me know if it really does work!
600
« on: October 23, 2018, 09:39:19 PM »
Can you post the OPZ of your German KV2? I'll test it on this end just to see if there is maybe some strange combination of settings unique to your selections that is causing the issue, though I doubt it.
The message "Comms changed to USB" will only appear if Dipswitch #5 changes from the Off position (communication over bluetooth) to the On position (communication over USB). I wonder if you have a flaky dipswitch. If you aren't manually flipping that switch that message should never appear. If there is something faulty with that switch it would definitely explain the difficulty you have in connecting. The fact that debugging info takes a long time to appear is also strange, but it could also be related to a flaky switch.
You will notice after your German KV finally does dump the debug information the first thing it does next is lose connection with the radio, or more accurately, it lost connection during the time it took to write the debug info. This does not happen with your other model that has native SBus, which again shows the more reliable connection you get with that setup.
I still don't know what's causing your issue, I'll test your OPZ but I'm not expecting much. If we can't find anything you will just have to work around it by unchecking the "Trigger with Cannon" option on those models, which although I never planned it that way, turns out to be a pretty handy fix to your specific problem.
You mentioned the XSR receiver can cause noise in the sound card, I have noticed that as well, and it's important to install them apart. The XSR and most of these new receivers not only receive but actually have a built-in transmitter as well, to return telemetry back to your radio (even if you are not using that feature). So that is what can cause interference.
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