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Messages - LukeZ
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571
« on: January 19, 2019, 02:14:21 PM »
No, no way to change the output voltage, it is fixed at 5 volts. You can read more about the "default low" option for the I/O ports in the Wiki but it refers to the state of the signal pin, not the voltage level generally. In fact if you are using one of the I/O ports for source voltage I would set the Port Direction to "Input" just so there is no chance you are using the signal pin to power your camera (it can not handle the current). For the purposes we are talking about here, you only want to use the fixed positive and negative pins of the I/O port to power your camera. It might be better to use one of the light outputs or the Aux if you are confused about any of this.
It is quite common for the FPV transmitters (which in you case is apparently built in to the camera) to become hot to the touch in normal operation, so that doesn't necessarily concern me. However, you do certainly need to check your camera can handle 5 volts.
572
« on: January 19, 2019, 12:34:35 AM »
The Aux can be used for anything, it would be fine for a small (5 volt) FPV camera. For that matter any of the light outputs would work equally as well, if you aren't already using them, they all use the same mosfet switch, the only difference is that the Aux output has a flyback diode protection so it can also drive a very small motor. But to switch on/off a camera any of them will work the same.
Imex Erik used the Aux output to power an FPV camera and he reported it worked quite well.
If you don't need to switch the camera on/off, and are happy to just leave it on all the time, you could also plug it into one of the General Purpose A or B pins. The signal pin won't be needed and will do nothing, but the GND and +5V pins are always powered so they can provide voltage to your camera.
573
« on: January 14, 2019, 01:52:03 AM »
The TCB appears to be back in stock in the USA warehouse. I can't see the other international warehouses, but at this moment it doesn't appear to be in Global.
574
« on: December 30, 2018, 02:14:44 PM »
The Scout can be connected to OP Config in Snoop mode, but I can't remember how much information it gives out. I think at this point however we are safe in assuming the firmware is operating correctly, and we need to look elsewhere for the problem.
The first thing I would do is connect the ground on the serial connection. Your results appear to be somewhat random and this could indicate a poor communication link.
Secondly, what version of the Scout board have you built and which ICs are you using? Hopefully not, but it could be possible you have put the wrong IC on the wrong board.
Also, note that it is possible to short a motor IC such that it will work in one direction but not the other. Excessive heat on the motor IC is also a good signal that something is wrong. This may be the case on your Scout 2.
Third, you can eliminate the TCB and serial communication entirely by running the Scout in RC mode. A servo tester is convenient for this purpose but you can also just hook it up to a standard RC receiver. This is a simple and straightforward way of testing the hardware. If the motors don't move in forward and reverse with a basic RC signal, the likelihood is that you have a short or some other physical problem.
Your Scout 1 seems to have the most functionality. I almost wonder if maybe you have an issue with Radio Setup, possibly inadvertent trims set on your transmitter, or the like. Run it in plain RC first to verify the motors are working, and if so, re-do radio setup and try it again with the TCB (with ground connected on the serial port).
575
« on: December 23, 2018, 02:42:06 PM »
There is only one thing which is not clear to me and I'll appreciate it if you can help me with that, what is the signal from the TCB going into the teensy 3.2, port 0 and 1? This is the Serial1 port on the Teensy. All commands from the TCB to the Teensy are transmitted over serial. Without that connection, the TCB can't tell the Open Panzer Sound Card to do anything. Of course the Open Panzer Sound Card also has inputs for use directly with an RC receiver, perhaps that is what you are testing. In that mode, the TCB is not used at all. It is an option for those wanting to use the sound card in other models that do not have a TCB. Functions and features will differ between the two modes. You can not use RC input with the TCB, you must use serial.
576
« on: December 19, 2018, 06:35:30 PM »
Probably the problem is that a motor is inverted, but I can't understand how if it is a stock Taigen that was working properly with a RX18 MFU.
I bought new gearbox and motors, I will connect them as the TBC need.
Forget the RX18. You are not using the RX18, you are using aftermarket ESCs. You need to set the motor wires for what works with your current setup. The reverse function in my ESC don't remove the reverse gear, I think it is called crawler mode in other ESCs.
Ok, good. At the moment, I'm working with all in reverse in OP Config and it work, when I go foward the TBC is thinking that I'm in reverse and the foward speed is limited (it looks the ESC are faster in foward than in reverse). I limited the foward speed to a 25%, 100% in reverse, removed the null speed turn, mode 1 steering, and know my tank drives in scale like the real one after mesure the speeds, just reverse is faster, but it is acceptable, if I put 20% in reverse It doesn't have enough torque.
Two futher small issues are that I can pass from foward to reverse without a futher touch in the stick, but when I need pass from reverse to foward,I need touch the stick foward twice.(due to the inversion direction in OP Config)
It's up to you if you want to run it backwards, even though it makes no sense. The TCB and OP Config will work correctly. You need to follow the setup instructions as already described, and then if your tank still moves in the wrong direction, SWITCH THE MOTOR WIRES. It's that simple. I bought new lights as look I burn them XD, some clue what resistors I need instal for original taigen leds?
I don't know what resistors the Taigen LEDs use, you could ask at RCU forums or somewhere. If you have bought aftermarket LEDs, then you need to look at the specifications of those LEDs to determine exactly what resistor you need. But as it says in the Wiki, "If you just like to guess, a 150 ohm resistor should be sufficient for most common single LEDs, or use a 100 ohm resistor for two LEDs wired in parallel." Always read the Wiki! It saves me time answering questions which are already answered there! Do you allow me credit you in a video I will make?
Yes, please feel free.
577
« on: December 19, 2018, 01:25:18 PM »
The hot air rework station is probably your best bet, since it should be able to remove the chip without melting too many other components around it. Good luck, and keep us posted.
578
« on: December 19, 2018, 12:40:56 AM »
Almost certainly the issue is a short on the motor driver chip M2 during reflow. This is not hard to do, and I have done it myself on occasion.
The fact you are getting correct lights, and correct functioning of M1, tells me the firmware and your radio setup is working as it should. There is nothing different from the software's point of view, of controlling motor 1 versus motor 2. If you had an issue with your radio or your receiver, you would also not be able to get motor 1 working at all. The fact that so much works, but one thing does not, tells me the problem is almost certainly a physical issue with your Scout.
Because the motor driver chips have large pads on their underside, it is very easy for them to short if you put too much solder paste on them before reflow. You can check the visible pins of the M2 chip for shorts, and if you see a short you can try to correct it with a soldering iron. But more than likely the short is on the underside where you can not see it and can not fix it. You really almost can't have too little solder paste when assembling these. The thinnest layer possible is what you want, anything more can cause problems.
There's no need to send you a "basic" opz. You can reset all values to default yourself within OP Config (look in the Tools menu). And you can easily delete the four standard triggers that come with the default settings (select each one on the Functions tab then click "Remove Selected Row"). But really the most important thing is that you have radio setup completed correctly, but it sounds like you do.
I'm afraid you're looking at building another Scout. Unfortunately without special equipment you are not likely to get the motor chip off and replaced, without destroying the rest of the board.
579
« on: December 17, 2018, 01:56:35 PM »
Hello Luke,
I am finally going to test the TCB, Scout and OP Sound together.
Just a quick question on the serial link wiring.
Looking at the schematics I was going to wire basically pin to pin, as follows:-
TCB Pin 2 (Tx) to Scout/OP Sound Pin 2 (Rx)
TCB Pin 3 (Rx) to Scout/OP Sound Pin 3 (Tx)
I assume Pin 1 (GND) is not required if all powered from the same battery.
Is there any chance of continued firmware support for R10 of the Scout?
Best Regards
Neil That's correct, except because the sound card has two connectors, the typical approach would be to connect the TCB to one of the connectors on the sound card, then use the second connector on the sound card to go to the Scout. In this case the connection to the sound card is just as you've described: TCB TX -> Sound Card RX-I TCB RX -> Sound Card TX-O Then from the Sound Card to Scout: Sound Card RX-I -> Scout RX-I Sound Card TX-O -> Scout TX-O That second connection is slightly confusing due to the nomenclature on the board, but just treat the Sound Card as a straight pass-through of the TCB signal. You are also correct that if all three boards share a common ground, then the GND pin of the serial connector is not required, but it would not be a bad idea to include it anyway. As for R10 of the Scout - I am not planning to continue firmware development for it, however as of right now it possesses all the same features as R11 firmware. In other words, R11 does nothing that R10 doesn't, it just uses different chips.
580
« on: December 15, 2018, 11:00:19 PM »
Hi FP, please read this recent thread where a user reported a similar issue, the cause turned out to be reversed motor wires. Your description is not entirely clear but my best advice is to start again from the beginning. Run the radio setup routine and make sure OP Config is correctly reading your radio, and that when you move your sticks OP Config interprets the directions and channels correctly. If not, adjust in OP Config until it can interpret your radio movements exactly as you intend them. Read the Wiki page again, or watch the help video. You say you have the reverse function disabled on your ESCs. That is not correct, your ESCs need to be able to operate in both forward and reverse. If possible, you do want to disable the brake function on the ESCs. But do not disable reverse. Once you get everything setup correctly in OP Config, then if your motors move in the wrong direction it is due to reversed motor wires. I am absolutely confident that your problem is something very simple that was overlooked, rather than a problem with the board itself. If English is not your first language, possibly the instructions in the Wiki are not very clear to you. If so, please try to find someone who can speak your language and English both, to help you. If you let us know hat your native language is, there may be some foreigners on this forum who can help. As for the lights, instructions are indeed provided in the Wiki including comments about current limiting and the use of resistors. I don't know what LEDs you are using so I can't give you specific advice. Maybe your LEDs were burned out? Are they wired backwards? Double check. Observe with Snoop in OP Config to make sure your trigger to turn on/off the lights is working correctly. If you can ask a very specific question I can give specific answers, but where things stand right now you will need to perform more troubleshooting yourself.
581
« on: December 15, 2018, 03:40:40 PM »
I don't actually know Hobby King's plans, but as it's been a while let me ask them and I will report back here with what they say.
582
« on: December 06, 2018, 10:05:38 PM »
583
« on: December 05, 2018, 06:43:12 PM »
Just reporting back, I've looked into the GSU. It is not a standalone device, it is merely an inertial measurement sensor, a good one but one of which any number could be chosen for the job. It still requires firmware on the TCB to process the readings and convert them into movement commands for the turret motors.
In other words, the GSU does not reduce the amount of work that would be required to accomplish that feature than where we are now. And where we are now, is that the amount of work is in excess of the time I have to devote, especially given how few people would actually use it.
Short of me winning the lottery and getting early retirement, some of these features will realistically only get realized if this project attracts additional coders that are willing to work on the firmware. For now I'm afraid I can't move the ball forward on that front.
584
« on: December 05, 2018, 12:57:52 PM »
They only just ran out of stock about a week ago, due to the sale they had running over Black Friday/Thanksgiving.
Hobby King doesn't keep me very informed so I can't tell you when they will re-stock but I'm sure it won't be much longer. But no one else is selling the TCB so until then you'll just have to wait.
585
« on: December 03, 2018, 02:37:22 PM »
Great, thanks for reporting back. Nine times out of ten, it's something simple like this.
I'm glad you like the customizations and driving characteristics. Jerky and unrealistic driving was what bothered me the most when I first got started in tanks, and was the original reason I decided to make my own control board.
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