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Messages - LukeZ
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541
« on: February 23, 2019, 08:56:17 PM »
Hi Sergey, these features have been added. You will need to update both OP Config and TCB firmware (new version 0.93.45). Be sure to save a copy of your settings from the TCB before updating, because the new firmware will cause them to be erased.
542
« on: February 21, 2019, 02:09:36 PM »
Ok, it is more clear now. Yes I will be interested to hear if you can adapt the code for COTS use. If you do get it working, feel free to post it to GitHub, I will be interested to take a look at it. It may be possible to integrate the two versions into one with a flag being set to select which hardware it runs on (similar to the Rev 10 / Rev 11 flag). Yes, the Arduino project is split into multiple files and no, they do not need to be combined. The best way to edit the source is to clone the project from GitHub to your own computer, but if you are having challenges with Arduino 101 then I suspect it may not be worth learning the intricacies of GitHub of which even I am but a novice. Alternatively just download the project (you can click the download button on the GitHub page, or go to the Open Panzer Downloads page and under the Scout Firmware section click "Download Zip" Unzip the folder on your computer. At the root you will see two folders and some text files, for your purposes you only need the folder called "OpenPanzerScout." Copy that folder to your Arduino sketches directory (if you are unclear of where this is at, open Arduino, click the File menu, then Preferences, then look for the entry called "Sketchbook location"). After you copy that folder to your Sketches directory, double-click on any of the ".ino" files inside it and Arduino should open the project. Yes there are 7 distinct files, and Arduino will open all 7 and array them as tabs in your editor. Arduino knows to treat them as one project, but having multiple tabs is handy for organizing the code into various sections.
543
« on: February 20, 2019, 06:43:09 PM »
Browsing back through the last few posts, it seems as if you are trying to create your own Scout from off-the-shelf parts with a UNO as processor and some code you found on Instructables. It sounds as if you have gotten the Instructables code to work, and now you have whatever functionality it gives (apparently control from your computer), but obviously it does not have the functionality that would be found in the Scout code. Therefore it will not interface with the TCB.
From your comments and questions I do think there is a large amount of basic programming knowledge that you would need to acquire first before it would be worth discussing specific firmware issues.
Does your Instructables project allow control via standard RC signals? If so, you might be able to use it with the TCB without any firmware changes since the TCB is also able to drive standard RC speed controllers, and you would have essentially built yourself a standard RC speed controller.
544
« on: February 20, 2019, 06:28:28 PM »
Hi Jerry, There have been many threads such as this one that start off with an unproven premise. Motor noise is of course a real thing, and can cause issues, and maybe your models suffer from it, but I can't imagine any scenario where motor noise would cause the TCB to think it had received an IR hit, especially if no IR receiver is attached. It is simply not possible. Now it is quite possible that electrical interference could cause your sound card to play the hit sound, or any other sound, that is much more easily done. But if the TCB is registering a hit without actually being hit, something else is going on besides motor noise. To definitively know if the TCB has registered a hit, you would need to be attached to your computer in Snoop mode. Or, you could attach the hit notification LEDs to the APPLE connector (but leave off the IR receiver). If you receive a hit there will be a very distinct pattern of fading in and out shown on the hit notification LED (if you are not using a Tamiya apple, be sure to add resistors to these notification LEDs). Short of that confirmation, I can't as yet feel confident that what has happened is what you think has happened. And even if it did, we would need to look elsewhere besides motor noise, because that is not related to IR reception. Is there a way to return the TCB to normal status after a hit without having to go to the tank and cycle the power switch? No, the usual way to return to normal status is for the tank to be hit enough times that it is "destroyed" after which it regenerates automatically after 15 seconds in line with the Tamiya battle standard. But since you are not actually in a battle, the only way to clear it is reboot. You can however on the Battle tab of OP Config select Disable IR under both the Cannon and MG sections, which should turn off the functionality completely. Are there better ways to filter motor noise from interacting with the TCB other than the normal 0.01uf caps that come installed from the factory? Or possibly a better quality size 130 motor that would not be so susceptible to noise? I am no expert on motor noises so I think you already know more than I do if you have been disassembling them. What I can say is be sure to keep your motor wires (meaning the wires running from whatever ESC you are using to the motors) as far away as possible from your receiver and its cable to the TCB, as well as any servo leads to your sound card, as well as from the power leads to the TCB. Some modern receivers support two-way communication and in essence these receivers are also transmitters in their own right. I don't know what receiver you're using but in those cases you want to keep the receiver antennas away from the TCB as well. These are always good practices but again even in the worst case scenarios would not be capable of fooling the TCB into thinking it had received an IR hit. So experiment with them, but you will need to do some more troubleshooting to more clearly define the offending behavior before we can analyze further.
545
« on: February 18, 2019, 02:16:09 PM »
- Function to limit max speed. It can be useful for slow movements. It can be one function with limit 50% of speed, (or three for example: 25%, 50%, 75%). Also, I think your suggestion is a good idea, but in the meantime you may also want to experiment with Inertia/Momentum profiles. Setting high levels of Inertia (with medium to high levels of Momentum) makes it easy to drive very slow in a smooth manner. You can have two profiles so one for slow driving and one for normal, and switch between them while driving.
546
« on: February 18, 2019, 02:10:04 PM »
Hi Sergey, thanks for the good suggestions. I think these should not be too difficult to add.
As for the turn lights, do you plan for them to blink in the same manner they do on cars? Presently there is no blink function for the A/B outputs, only on/off. You could use the Aux output for one turn signal and the MG2 output for the other turn signal, since both of those already have blink functions. Otherwise I would need to add some blink functions for A/B also.
In addition to the four triggers you list, it seems that two others will probably also be necessary - "stop" and "not turning." Those will be required to undo whatever command you issue with the forward/reverse or left/right triggers.
547
« on: February 11, 2019, 08:41:01 PM »
Hey Brad, glad to hear you got your board fixed, good job on the soldering. Maybe some TCBs will show up on the secondary market, if I hear of any I'll let you know.
I wish HK had told me in advance they were going to discontinue the product, I would have stocked up on extras to hand out to active members!
548
« on: February 11, 2019, 02:52:09 PM »
Good point about the FPV, some do require special voltages.
If you have an FPV camera/transmitter that works on 5 volts, I know one user who powered his via the Aux output and so was able to turn on/off the camera from his transmitter that way.
549
« on: February 08, 2019, 05:41:45 PM »
Is the idea that you would use these instead of current limiting resistors for LED lights? I guess they are certainly cheap enough.
What other purpose for them do you have in mind?
550
« on: February 07, 2019, 12:31:04 PM »
Do your MOSFETs also say 23EG? It would seem that HK dug up some old stock boards from 2017 that did not have the correct parts, and have been selling those at the very end. Guess they couldn't say goodbye without a parting gift.
551
« on: February 06, 2019, 08:46:54 PM »
You definitely want the TCB to do the mixing, set the Sabertooth to independent. TCB needs to control all that in order for turn modes, momentum/inertia and other effects to work properly.
552
« on: February 06, 2019, 08:04:10 PM »
I found some APO speed controllers on AliExpress. It appears their main advantage over other options is their ability to handle moderate currents at high voltages. If someone was not running a 24 volt system, there probably would be more cost-effective solutions.
The Sabertooth 2x32 is a special case amongst the Sabertooth line, it uses a software provided by Dimension Engineering called DEScribe to alter settings. Let us know how it works for you.
553
« on: February 06, 2019, 06:38:51 PM »
I will follow along with interest, here and at RC Universe both. The early Panzers (I-II-III) are my favorites. Your weathering is looking very good.
I am curious about the "APO ESC" and the larger red board highlighted in this picture. Do you have links? I am always trying to learn about new products I haven't heard about before.
554
« on: February 06, 2019, 06:10:23 PM »
the order is placed. date for delivery: 20th march I hope you are very patient! CNY is a real pain every year...
555
« on: February 05, 2019, 04:23:45 PM »
when i am right can you use one from the I/O port as a switch. this should make it possible to turn on/off/toggle the state from the gryo. Ulrich, usually RC gyros which use a second channel to adjust the gyro settings require that channel to be in standard RC PWM format, but the general purpose I/O ports on the TCB are just on/off. So it is unlikely that would work. However if you have any spare RC outputs on the TCB that you are not using (depends on your setup, but usually a couple end up being free), then you can set that RC output as a "pass-through" and assign it to one of your free Aux channels (on the Functions tab of OP Config). Then you will be able to control your gyro from your radio using that channel, just as if you were using a standard RC receiver. When you get your gyro and are doing testing let us know if this doesn't make sense and I'll help walk you through it. You are right though, for now we all have to suffer through Chinese New Year!
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