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Messages - LukeZ
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46
« on: July 11, 2022, 08:20:38 AM »
Hi Rongyos, your questions are not annoying at all!
In fact there are several other Teensy boards that could be made to work with the OP Sound Card firmware, but they would all require significant changes to the code and the physical circuit board. The 3.5/3.6 have nearly the same type of sound output as the 3.2, but they are a physically much larger and would require a complete board redesign. Also the 3.5/3.6 processors are unavailable right now the same as the 3.2, so that is no help.
The 4.0 can also produce sound, but it only outputs the sound digitally. This means that instead of the sound output going straight to an amplifier chip, it would first have to go to a digital-analog converter, and then the amplifier. So again a complete board redesign, and also changes to the firmware.
Unfortunately such a redesign is not something I have the time for. And I can't even say that if someone started on this undertaking there might not be other complications that could arise, as I have not explored in depth all the differences. Even if I had the time, I might be hesitant to take on such a project in the current environment, because who is to say that the 4.0 or other components (amplifers or who knows what) might also be affected by shortages in the near future.
I'm sorry I can't be of more help! But I hope that answers your question.
47
« on: July 09, 2022, 03:26:21 PM »
Hi Rongyos, unfortunately although the Teensy 2.0 can do many things, it does not have the necessary processing power to handle the sound generation. So you will need to use the Teensy 3.2.
I know right now they are not available due to the supply chain mess. The semi-conductor shortage is a real problem, much bigger than I thought it would be when it first started. It does not appear at all close to being resolved. When major car manufacturers in America can no longer make automobiles, I don't know how long it will be before hobby things like the Teensy will be able to return.
48
« on: June 01, 2022, 05:44:41 AM »
Glad you found it! Thanks for letting us know.
49
« on: May 31, 2022, 09:53:12 AM »
It's true, I have observed as well that certain transmitter/receiver combinations do not like to be too close, and when they are there can be connection issues. Thankfully that one at least is a very easy fix!
50
« on: May 30, 2022, 05:27:49 PM »
Flashing red and green alternately rapidly is indeed loss of radio signal. It also typically occurs for a few seconds when you first boot the board, not because the radio signal has been "lost" but simply because it hasn't yet been acquired. This flashing has no pre-determined length of time, it lasts for as long as the radio signal is not detected. After the radio signal is acquired I don't know that I would typically expect any kind of flashing, even slower. When you are connected to the computer the green LED will blink slowly but the red LED remains on. One or the other will blink slowly if you are turning in one direction or the other, but they shouldn't be alternating unless you are turning back and forth quickly or there is some kind of glitch in the radio signal. You can see the full list of LED behavior here. If you are having an issue maybe you can describe more what's happening and we can try to figure it out.
51
« on: May 19, 2022, 06:37:13 AM »
Hi NS, yes a 10uF tantalum would work fine, in fact it is mentioned in the datasheet for the voltage regulator I use. If you use a different voltage regulator then you can check its datasheet for recommendations, but usually a tantalum will be fine.
An SMD-D will take up more space so it will not fit on the original board, but if you are making a new design then it doesn't matter.
52
« on: May 17, 2022, 04:15:50 PM »
Hi Steve, Jürgen is right, this is a pretty standard part and many manufacturers would make an equivalent. I recall you're in the UK. I believe this one should work, available from Farnell UK, but they have others as well: Panasonic EEEHB1V100R
53
« on: May 13, 2022, 02:03:36 PM »
Good work! I'm glad you found the solution, and I hope this will be useful to someone else in the future.
54
« on: May 13, 2022, 10:11:17 AM »
Ok, that is interesting. They say it will work with a brushed speed controller, and that is what the A and B motor outputs are, so I don't know why it wouldn't work. The motor outputs do use a higher frequency than many cheap speed controllers, to cut down on motor whine, but that is the only difference.
You said you have tested the actuator by "directly powering" it. Assuming that means you just connected it straight to a battery, do you have a brushed speed controller you could try? If that doesn't work, maybe the actuator is defective in some way.
One other test is to connect the actuator to the Motor A output, but on the Motors tab of OP Config set the Turret Rotation to "Detached." Next create a function trigger that assigns a switch on your transmitter to the functions "Motor A - On" and "Motor A - Off." Now the Motor A output will operate simply like a switch (full on or full off). Of course you will get movement only in one direction, and at full speed. It will not be useful for your turret but it is a test to see if there is any issue with voltage from the motor outputs (I doubt it).
55
« on: May 13, 2022, 08:25:38 AM »
Hi Mini, I assume you are talking about the A or B Motor outputs? (And not the general purpose I/O ports).
I see there are various versions of the L12, the I, S, R, or P. Can you tell us what version you have? For use with the A or B motor outputs, I think you would have to have the L12-S. If that is what you have and it is still not working, it could be that the actuators only accept on/off voltage (in other words there is no speed adjustment), whereas the motor outputs are variable speed.
If you had the -I or -R version, you could control them with one of the RC outputs on the TCB. I don't think have the -R version because that is limited to 6 volts.
56
« on: May 07, 2022, 06:10:40 AM »
Thanks for letting me know! I'm glad it was something simple. 
57
« on: May 06, 2022, 04:03:36 PM »
Hi Amaral, the most likely reason is that the channel center and end points were not saved correctly. It's good that you can see the stick movements on the radio tab, but I would recommend you go through the full radio setup procedure again. Refer to the video on this page. If that doesn't fix it let me know!
58
« on: April 18, 2022, 01:22:54 PM »
Hi minimivic. If you set the sound card to "Benedini - Mini," the signals from both left and right are combined into the Prop 1 output, so as far as the Beier is concerned, you have a "model with 1 drive motor." As for Prop 2 and 3, they may or may not be of much use. Prop 3 serves as a 16-position RC switch with each position controlling an output as shown on the picture of the Parameter tab on the Benedini page. The Beier is designed to read a similar type of switch, which they call "Nautic." You would connect Prop 3 from the TCB to "proportional channel #3 (X2/3) or channel #4 (X2/4) of the Beier sound module." However, I am not sure if the positions that we use for the Benedini will be the same positions that the Beier expects, so this may or may not work. You might want to use the Diagnosis function of Beier "Sound-Teacher" program to monitor the outputs of this channel, and see if they can be used. If not, it might better to set the sound card to "Open Panzer Sound Card" in OP Config. You will not be using the OP Sound Card of course, but this frees up RC Output 6-8 on the TCB (Prop 3 - 1) for other uses. On the Functions tab of OP Config, you can then assign the "Throttle Command" trigger to the "RC Output 8 - Pass-through" function, and then connect Prop 1 to the Beier proportional channel 1 for movement sound. For other sounds, you can use a pass-through RC channel connected to the Beier. You might also be able to use the General Purpose Outputs A & B on the TCB (set them to Default High) connected to some of the "switching inputs" on the Beier. You will have to do a lot of experimenting and in the end you may not be able to take full advantage of all the features of the Beier. I will be curious what results you have, so let us know!
59
« on: March 30, 2022, 08:27:56 AM »
No problem, I'm glad it was a simple fix. I admire all the foreigners who are trying to use this project, it is complicated enough in English!
60
« on: March 30, 2022, 07:18:57 AM »
Hi Patrionzel, I looked at the OPZ file and indeed the min/center/max values for Aux Channel 6 are all equal to the same thing: 1500. Typically we should see something like 1000 (min), 1500 (center) and 2000 (max). This tells me that when you performed Radio Setup the min/max values for this channel were not saved correctly - or possibly, your radio does not have this channel to begin with. In your OPZ file Aux channel 6 is assigned to the 10th channel of your radio. Does your radio have 10 channels? I suggest reading again the page on Radio Setup in the wiki and watching the tutorial video there, when you understand that I think you can easily fix this problem. But if anything is unclear feel free to ask questions! Luke
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