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Messages - LukeZ

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1
Open Panzer Help / Re: Gyro Turret lock function
« on: March 22, 2019, 10:48:25 PM »
If I understand your earlier comments correctly, it is possible to get a gyro to work on one axis or the other correctly, but since they are designed for helicopters and not tanks, there is not an appropriate mode that will control both the turret rotation and barrel elevation channels in the manner we need, is that about right?

I wonder if using two independent single-axis gyros, one for each channel, might be the simplest approach. But we will look forward to seeing your progress with the A3S3.

2
Should I buy hot air soldering base?
I have never needed to use a hot air station, though it might have come in convenient at times. I would invest in a good soldering iron over a hot air station, I use the Weller WLC100 and an ST7 fine tip. But there are some things an iron simply can't do. For reflow soldering I use a cheap electric hot plate (like what you get for cooking).

I have no progress to report on the DIY sound card idea. I'm still waiting on some parts from China to do more testing with.

3
Open Panzer Help / Re: Gyro Turret lock function
« on: March 15, 2019, 03:34:10 PM »
Hi Ulrich, can you give us a link to the gyro you are using as well as to the other ones you are considering? It would be nice for us to see what you're doing so we can follow along, or try it ourselves. 

You will want to make sure the ESC you are using for the turret rotation does not have "brake" enabled (most do). With brake it will not want to change direction immediately.

The other problem I would think is that the standard turret rotation motors (Heng Long/Taigen) are very slow and would not be able to move fast enough. A high speed servo, modified for continuous rotation, might work better.

From your description it sounds like in theory the 3-axis gyro is all you need, the problem is in the mechanical implementation (if I understand you correctly). There is actually no such thing as a "6-axis" gyro, there are only ever 3 axis of movement. What they call "6-axis" just means essentially that it is more sensitive, but the functionality is going to be basically the same. However as you point out maybe one of the advanced "modes" available on the "6-axis" would work better in practice.

4
Show and Tell / Re: TCB controlled landing craft project
« on: March 15, 2019, 03:17:15 PM »
I will definitely be watching with interest!

5
Open Panzer Help / Re: Firing randomly
« on: March 13, 2019, 07:08:10 PM »
The most likely cause is that your cannon fire channel (Aux 3) is hovering around the trip point (between position 1 and 2). Check the end-points for that channel in your transmitter. Also observe that channel while doing "Read Radio," and make sure OP Config is reading the two discrete positions solidly. Possibly you may need to "Save Min/Max" once more and make sure it has correctly recorded the full range of that channel.


6
Open Panzer Help / Re: correcion de direccion
« on: March 13, 2019, 03:50:36 AM »
I see nothing unusual in your setup. As before, I would recommend performing Radio Setup once again to verify that your controls are assigned properly.

Has this behavior appeared suddenly? Is there any other change you made recently that you can associate with this problem?

7
Open Panzer Help / Re: correcion de direccion
« on: March 12, 2019, 01:32:26 PM »
I understand your question now. That definitely should not happen. The first thing I would do is run through Radio Setup again to make sure the channels are saved correctly.

Also you can post your OPZ file and I will see if anything looks strange.

8
Open Panzer Help / Re: correcion de direccion
« on: March 11, 2019, 09:32:31 PM »
Hi juan, have you tried using the trim (or subtrim) on your transmitter to compensate?

9
You are correct. You can use a calculator like this one. Supply voltage = 5 volts. Desired current = 20 mA (or less). Voltage drop you can find from your LED specification.

Of course the other outputs (Aux, MG, L2, etc) can supply more current, but you still need to provide a resistor or else your LED will burn out.

10
You need to link turn triggers to a blinking output.

The triggers are Right Turn, Left Turn and Turn Stop.

As for outputs there are five with blink capability:
- MG1
- MG2
- Aux output
- IO A
- IO B

You may already be using MG1 for machine gun but you still have the other outputs to choose from. IO A & B do have a current limit of 20mA, but even that should be adequate for most LED lights if you choose the correct current-limiting resistor.

In short you have many options, it depends on what other outputs you already have assigned.

11
News & Announcements / Forum Registration
« on: March 04, 2019, 08:18:59 PM »
In recent months this forum has been inundated with spam accounts, sometimes up to a dozen a day. This creates a lot of work to delete them, or to try to figure out who is a legit user and who is a spam bot. Extensive measures have been taken to prevent bots from registering, but I think some foreign countries are paying cheap labor prices to have actual humans do the registration, with ill intent.

Because it has become too much to keep on top of, you may find registration disabled. But you can still obtain an account! To do so you must send me a private message (PM) at either the RCUniverse or RCTankWarfare forums. My username at both is LukeZ.

Your PM should have the following information:
- Subject should be "Open Panzer Forum Registration"
- Provide me your email address
- Tell me your desired forum username

I will manually register you and you will then be sent an email to activate your account.


12
TCB Dev / Re: Testing TCB Firmware with Stock Arduino Mega
« on: March 03, 2019, 10:44:01 PM »
Since the TCB is no longer available commercially there has been an increased interest in using an off-the-shelf Arduino Mega board as a do-it-yourself (DIY) solution. There are several challenges with this approach, but also one big problem: the TCB assigns two of its functions to pins on the ATmega2560 processor that are not actually connected on Arduino Mega boards. The processor on the TCB and Arduino Mega is the same, but for space constraints the Arduino Mega doesn't connect all the pins that are actually available, but because I designed the TCB from scratch, I was able to use any pin I wanted.

To solve this problem for those wanting to experiment with Arduino Mega boards, I have just released a new version of OP Config (v0.93.46). In this new release, you will have the ability to download a "TCB - DIY Version" firmware. This "DIY" firmware will always have the same options and features as the regular TCB firmware, and will be updated on the same schedule, the only difference is that the DIY firmware will relocate the two problematic pins from the traditional TCB design.

The pins that change on the DIY firmware are:
  • Machine Gun LED - will now be on Arduino Pin 20 (also labeled SDA on the Mega board)
  • Airsoft/Mechanical Recoil Switch - will now be on Arduino Pin 21 (also labeled SCL on the Mega board)
I need to create some updated documentation to permanently record this but in the meantime the new firmware is there and will work for DIY projects.

13
Open Panzer Help / Re: buying/getting the OP TCB advice
« on: March 03, 2019, 10:35:07 PM »
Would it be possible to reconfigure the output pin for some functions, specifically the machine gun output (and the recoil switch) to a different pin? currently the MG uses E2 when this port is not available on the arduino.
Yes, this is possible and needed to be done. We used those obscure pins on the TCB because it made board routing easier, but it's of no use for the DIY person trying to make a board with an Arduino Mega.

I have just released a new version of OP Config, on the Firmware tab you will now see an option to download a "TCB - DIY Version" firmware. This firmware will always have the same options and features as the regular TCB firmware, and will be updated on the same schedule, the only difference is that the DIY firmware will relocate those two pins.

The pins that change on the DIY firmware are:
  • Machine Gun LED - will now be on Arduino Pin 20 (also labeled SDA on the Mega board)
  • Airsoft/Mechanical Recoil Switch - will now be on Arduino Pin 21 (also labeled SCL on the Mega board)

I need to create some updated documentation to permanently record this but in the meantime the new firmware is there and will work for DIY projects.

Please keep us posted if you decide to go the DIY route, but maybe record your progress in the other thread so we have it all in one place.

14
Open Panzer Help / Re: buying/getting the OP TCB advice
« on: March 02, 2019, 12:41:32 AM »
Hi Alex,

I would recommend against the first option of building the board yourself. Even though I have a lot of experience even I ruined about 40% of all the TCBs I attempted to assemble, and that is a very costly loss rate.

Using the Mega as a base to DIY your own version is not a bad option but unless you add external components many features will not be available. This thread which you have probably already seen has good information. Without any soldering at all, you can get read PPM or iBus receivers (SBus receivers would require additional components), and you can drive any serial motor controller (like the Sabertooth) or RC ESCs without problem. You can also connect the Benedini or Taigen sound card with no work, and if you have a recoil servo, run that too. If you want to turn on/off LEDs you can do that too without additional components (other than current limiting resistors which you need to use anyway), so long as you don't draw more then 20mA per output.

Beyond that you start to need additional components. LEDs with more than 20mA of current draw, the smoker, the high intensity flash, and IR functionality all require MOSFETs or transistors. Airsoft and mechanical recoil is not possible to get to work with the present firmware, because they use pins which the Mega boards do not bring out (even though the Mega uses the same processor as the TCB, it doesn't connect all the pins from the processor). There would of course be no on-board motor driver for the turret rotation and barrel elevation, it would be best to use a cheap RC speed controller for those (since they are such small motors you can easily get away with some cheap ones from China for a few dollars). Of course at this point you start to create quite the wiring mess.

Here is another very fascinating thread by Sergey who took the DIY approach to the extreme. It is in Russian but Google translate works very well.

If you just want to drive your tank around, have sound and a servo recoil, then it is pretty straightforward. If you want IR and lots of external gadgets, or need Airsoft, then it is not really going to be easy or work very well.

I suppose at this point in the project what is maybe needed is a simple shield with through-hole components only that would be easy for lay-people to assemble,  such as Rebus started.

I can't say when or if I would have time to work on such a thing, though I think it would be a worthy endeavor. In the meantime the situation you face is as I've described.

Another option is to post on RCU or other tank forums to see if anyone wants to sell an existing TCB. It's hard to believe, but not everybody liked it! :) I'm sure they would be happy to make some money.

15
I'm new in electronics and the only thing that I can recognize on a schematic is DC+ and - :D
Leaving the joke, can I replace SMD parts to THT parts somehow? Did you make or can you send me a THT EAGLE board?
Or is it possible somehow? I van make PCB for the amplifier and I can solder the MicroSD car but little SMD-s are hard to soldering for me :(
Hi Adam,

Even the SD card holder is difficult to hand solder, I really wouldn't do it myself even, not because it is so small, but because of the design the pins are inaccessible and you really need to do reflow to secure it well.

It is an interesting question if a simplified version of the sound card could be made with off-the-shelf parts that would involve more or less minimal soldering and no SMD components. As always there are complications to everything, the SD card is one complication as already mentioned. There is one SD card shield for the Teensy but the design of it hides the reset button on the Teensy which you actually need to flash firmware. Nothing is ever easy. On the other hand, cheap amplifier breakout boards are widely available on eBay and Chinese sites so that part is convenient.

I am giving this some thought and I plan to test a few components. The short answer is that right now there is no good way, but if I come up with something I will post here again with my findings.

At the same time I am pursuing some possibilities of production for the existing design (not through Hobby King). I hesitate to mention it because there is no guarantee any of these efforts will bear fruit, but I am trying.

Nothing is going to happen quickly, but the project has not been abandoned completely.

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