Open Panzer
Open Panzer Help & Info => Open Panzer Help => Topic started by: Lotuswins on January 07, 2018, 03:56:51 PM
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Hi Luke,
So my son, bless his heart, sent me a sabertooth 12A motor driver for Xmas, so I'm back working on my Panther and the Scout will have to wait for a while. Anyways, I'm having trouble setting the TCB up the way I have been on my other tanks (IBU2, Clark, Taigen). This includes having both IR or Airsoft available with the flick of a switch on the transmitter. What I'm trying to set up is:
Normal running is IR, with track recoil, cannon sound, IR flash all happening at the same instant.
Flipping a two position switch (in this case its channel 5 on my Turnigy 9x) enables the airsoft, which includes track recoil and cannon sound. The track recoil should be coordinated with the cannon sound and the 'pop' of the airsoft gun sending off the pellet.
Which settings would you recommend to accomplish this?
Oh, and btw, the sabertooth and TCB are the smoothest running system I have experienced so far. This thing will crawl slower than any of my tanks to date....awesome!!
thanks for any thoughts,
Jerry Rude
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IR is always active so long as you have enabled it in OP Config, so the IR signal will fire with the cannon regardless of any airsoft settings. I suppose we could create a function to enable/disable it on the run, if that was needed. I'm not sure it really is, if you're in an IR battle you want it on, and if you're not in an IR battle then it doesn't really matter, it's not like you can see the signal.
You can however enable/disable airsoft using the functions provided for that (http://openpanzer.org/wiki/doku.php?id=wiki:tcb:operation:functionlist#cannon_and_related_functions). Assign the two positions of your channel 5 switch to "Airsoft/Mech Recoil - Enable" and "Airsoft/Mech Recoil - Disable" functions, and you can then turn it on and off with that switch. When enabled the airsoft will fire when you fire the cannon (assigned to some other trigger from your radio), and when disabled it will do nothing but the other cannon effects (flash, IR, track recoil, sound, etc) will still operate as usual.
You can let me know if airsoft and track recoil are synchronized correctly with each other. It may actually not be, I recall that was a somewhat complicated case when I created track recoil, so I might need to put some more work into it.
I'm glad you like the driving characteristics of the TCB. Jerky driving was the original thing which drove me nuts about my first Heng Long and which sent me down the long path of developing this whole thing in the first place. I've probably put more time into the driving adjustments than any other feature... like you, slow and smooth is what I like.
PS: Recall also that track recoil only occurs if you fire the cannon while the tank is stationary, it does nothing if you are moving.
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Luke,
I thought that should be the solution, but when I tried it earlier it wouldn't work the way you described. I've since re-flashed the board, and reloaded the settings. So I turned on the tank, radio first though, and started it up fine, and with the channel switch in the disable position when hitting the cannon fire it would do the recoil, and the airsoft cannon, firing the sound when the airsoft limit switch opened as you would expect if airsoft was enabled. Upon cycling the switch, it would then work as expected with the cannon sound and track recoil in unison.
Turning the switch on to enable the airsoft, the track recoil was instantaneous, but the sound coordinated with the airsoft completion.
So, two issues the way I see it, at least with my setup:
1) track recoil when in airsoft mode is not synchronized with the sound and airsoft completion. (should be triggering off the airsoft limit switch?)
2) disable mode is not recognized until the trigger is cycled.
Sound okay? thanks for the quick reply btw.....Jerry
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Ok you're right, I never did synchronize the track recoil to the airsoft device. I've changed that. I will post an official update but for now I wouldn't mind if you test it first in case I need to make any other adjustments. It seems to work on my end. I've attached a Hex to this message, flash it your TCB in the usual manner except that instead of "Get Latest Release" click "Use your own Hex" and load the one attached here.
As for your switch not registering until you cycle it, that is a little strange and I can't replicate it on my end. What you might want to do is connect your TCB to your computer and run the Snoop mode in OP Config. When the TCB first boots (you can reset it manually with the reset button to test) it will dump a bunch of information to the console window, look for the MOTOR TYPES section (right after the radio info) and see what it says next to the mechanical barrel setting. It should say Airsoft since that's what you're using, but next to it should be the word "enabled" or "disabled" in parentheses, depending on what it thinks the position of your transmitter switch to be. Hopefully that should reflect the position of your switch at the time of boot.
(You can also dump the information to the console window at any time, without rebooting, by pressing the input button. This will let you see if the status is changing after you toggle your switch, but it sounds like we already know that part is working.)
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Hi Luke,
That was quick! I loaded up the firmware, and the track recoil is now in line with sound and the end of the airsoft recoil cycle. Fantastic!! Thank you so much.
As for the enable on airsoft when reset or turned on, it shows 'enabled' next to the 'airsoft'. Once cycled, it goes to enabled (again) then to disabled. I'm running a PWM to PMM converter (the one you found at HK) and it seems to work okay, but the readings seem to bounce a little when I read the radio. The pulse may vary maybe 10 counts out of 890? I think this is common, isn't it? Perhaps that is the issue? Its not a biggie, just have to remember to cycle it when starting out.
Jerry
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It would seem the only time the issue happens in your case is on boot, afterwards it sounds like you are able to enable/disable the airsoft function without any problems and the board behaves as expected.
I have a theory as to why that is, you can confirm for me by doing a test with debugging messages turned off (checkmark on the Misc tab of OP Config). Then try again, set your airsoft switch to the disabled position when you turn on the board, and it should correctly be disabled when you first fire the cannon rather than requiring you to cycle the switch manually.
What I have observed is that as the debugging data dump has gotten larger, it takes a long time (relatively speaking even though it's only a fraction of a second) to print it all out the serial port, and while that is happening it can cause a momentary loss of radio signal as the board is too busy printing messages to take care of radio stuff. When that happens it is possible some settings get returned to default or other values, and in your case I think this might be re-enabling your airsoft. Since this only happens once on boot, after you manually cycle the switch then you have no further problems.
By turning off debugging messages this dump doesn't occur, and if that was the source of the problem then your switch setting shouldn't change. So it would be good to confirm that.
I have also posted an official update (0.92.17) that includes the track recoil synchronization but also forces a re-execution of all function triggers whenever a radio signal is lost and re-gained. So if the debugging messages truly are the cause of your problem, then this new update should fix that even when you leave the debug messages option checked (because they can be quite useful). However it would be good if you could test the above first before flashing this new update, just so we know.
No hurry, and thanks for your help in troubleshooting this stuff.
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Hi Luke,
Okay, I tried unchecking the debug box, and no joy. The switch position isn't recognized until cycled.
Then I loaded the new version, and also, no joy. Still the same.
I'm using Aux 2 for the switch, channel 5.
Otherwise, all is good though if you get a chance on programming, the flash LED signals that IBU2 uses is nice (one flash cannon reloaded, two for low voltage, etc.). I don't know if others like that feedback, but it is nice to have IMHO.
The #2 setting on the driving of the motors sure is sweet. This thing drives like a car almost, really smooth.....can't get over how nice it is.
Jerry
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Ok then, my theory doesn't explain your issue, though the change I made doesn't hurt anything so I will leave it in.
To conclude I'm stumped as to why you have to cycle your switch before the setting sticks, and I can't replicate that on my end. The only other thing to check is that you don't accidentally have some other trigger also modifying the airsoft enable since it is possible to assign multiple triggers to the same function (and vice-versa). But I'm sure you haven't done that so that's unlikely. You could post your OPZ file for me to examine if you want, though I'm not sure it will tell us much.
For now I'm going to conclude this is just as likely to be something odd with your radio as anything to do with the TCB. I'm sorry if I missed it, you say you're using a 9x but what firmware are you running? And what module and receiver?
As for the LED indicator that is a good idea. In fact the TCB will already indicate low voltage quite distinctly using every possible light attached to the board (as well as those on the board) in a blinking pattern that starts fast and slows down, then repeats (the opposite of the repair blink pattern (https://youtu.be/EwBEcx28nZI?t=35s)).
But the cannon reload indicator is a good idea that is worth implementing. When I look at the IBU2 manual (http://www.ibu-electronics.com/doc/IBU2_Ultimate_manual_English_V2.pdf) on page 9 I actually don't even see the cannon reload option, so perhaps you have thought of something not even they have. I will add that feature when I next have some time.
Note that when used with the Open Panzer Sound Card (unobtainium I know) you can also have an audible indicator of cannon reloaded, using whatever sound file you want.
Note that when used with the Scout ESC the Scout will itself provide indicators for over-current/over-heat and other conditions. When used with other types of speed controls like the Sabertooth or whatever obviously that is not possible since we don't know what they are thinking. The IBU has an advantage in the sense that everything is integrated into one board so it always knows what every component is doing.
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Hi Luke,
I tried changing the order of the functions but that didn't help. So, here is my .opz file for your perusal, perhaps something will stand out.
I'm using Tanker9x firmware on my 9x, with the original module/receiver (RF9Xv2/9X8Cv2) with the PWM/PMM converter by HK. All 8 channel wires go into the converter, and only one is a pass thru, the volume servo/pot I have made, which is on channel 7.
If you look at Page 12 on the IBU2 manual, it shows the flash meanings....so I'm not that bright to think of something new.....but thanks for the thought. Interesting about the low voltage flashes, as when my NiMH battery went low, the tank just stopped working. That is it would stop, and when I tried to restart it would for a second or two, but then just quit again. I'll see if I can't repeat the performance to ensure I got it right. I've set the voltage at 6.1 volts for the cutoff....a little low for LiPo but since I've been using NiMH mostly lately, it is a little conservative.
Thanks, Jerry
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Hi again Luke,
So I ran the battery down again, and this time it all worked as you said. The tank started bucking, like a car running out of gas, and then all the lights started blinking, which slowly diminished to nothing.....very nice.
Just verifying....Jerry
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I'm using Tanker9x firmware on my 9x, with the original module/receiver (RF9Xv2/9X8Cv2) with the PWM/PMM converter by HK. All 8 channel wires go into the converter, and only one is a pass thru, the volume servo/pot I have made, which is on channel 7.
I checked your OPZ file and see nothing amiss. I'm going to go out on a limb and say almost certainly the issue you have is related to your radio setup, which is slightly unconventional, though nothing wrong with that.
One piece of advice that is unrelated to this topic, but just in general, is to dispense with Tanker9x unless you are really wedded to it for some reason. I suggest this not because Tanker9x is no good or doesn't work, but because it is unnecessary and to use some economics language, the opportunity cost of using it is very high. There is nothing Tanker9x can do that every other 9x firmware can't also do, but plenty the other way around. I don't believe Tanker9x is even being actively developed so it is not keeping up with all the updates that are being made to this day with er9x and variants. By getting familiar with er9x you will then be comfortable with a firmware that can run on the Taranis, the QX7, and probably other transmitters in the future, so you are learning something very useful and adaptable. Tanker9x is with all respect to the author unfortunately a dead-end.
In time another good upgrade will be to ditch the janky PWM-PPM converter and install a system with native SBus like the FrSky XJT. Combined with er9x you will get 16 channels on a single cable. But that can be done later. Having a 9x as your transmitter is a good choice because it gives you lots of options in the future.
If you look at Page 12 on the IBU2 manual, it shows the flash meanings....so I'm not that bright to think of something new.....but thanks for the thought.
Ok, I see you are looking at the IBU2 manual (http://www.ibu-electronics.com/doc/IBU2_manual_V5_0.pdf) and I was looking at the IBU2 "Ultimate" (http://www.ibu-electronics.com/doc/IBU2_Ultimate_manual_English_V2.pdf) manual, whatever that is. Importantly I see he's not even consistent with the flashing across his own products, so I won't feel bad that I'm not consistent with him.
I've posted a new firmware update that adds a double-blink to the Apple LEDs when the cannon reload is complete. I think two quick blinks is more likely to be seen than a single one.
I've set the voltage at 6.1 volts for the cutoff....a little low for LiPo but since I've been using NiMH mostly lately, it is a little conservative.
So I ran the battery down again, and this time it all worked as you said. The tank started bucking, like a car running out of gas, and then all the lights started blinking, which slowly diminished to nothing.....very nice.
Glad to know that's working. Since you are using NiMH (presumably a 6-cell) you may want to increase your low voltage cutoff level to something a bit higher, so you get the blinking notification before your model starts to sputter. The bucking is not a feature of the TCB, but rather indicates that your Sabertooth is beginning to fade out. NiMH batteries have a very flat discharge curve, meaning they maintain their voltage until nearly fully discharged (1.2 nominal per cell). By the time your NiMH reads 6.1 volts, that thing is pretty much dead, and more to the point the processors on both the Sabertooth and the TCB themselves are both probably beginning to brown out.
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Hi Luke,
Thanks for the update on the blinking apple, I think it is really nice when you don't have to guess when the reload is done.
And thanks for the tips on the er9x and the module to get 16 channels, that could come in handy some day. Since I've got 4 of these transmitters (one for each country and a spare) I should be able to flash er9x to the spare to get used to it before converting everything over. And the loss of all those PWM cables would be nice in the panther, but the modules are pricey (more than the radio), but perhaps there will be a sale?
I didn't realize the NiMH batteries had such a flat discharge voltage, so I just upped the voltage to 6.3 to see how that works. I'm running a 2000mah unit from Taigen in the Panther that came with my Sherman M4-76mm tank, so its not really a star battery since it only takes around 1200 mah in charge. I'll have to go get a larger one for this tank since I'm running the long motors and the tank is the taigen metal version.
I'm currently putting my second Hooben T55A together, this time with the metal gearboxes, and wondering if the 5 amp sabertooth would be okay in this one? It has the stock motors, 53:1 gearboxes, aluminum stiffener plate the length of the tank, metal tracks/sprockets/idlers, but otherwise stock. Not a heavy tank but my other one which had the Tamiya clone gearboxes, same ratio, would not creep well with the ClarkTK22 control board (very erratic at slow speed). I tried it with the IBU2U, and that was better, but no way as smooth as this panther and the TCB. I finally added 100:1 Taigen modified gearboxes to the first T55A and that seems to cure things, but top speed is a bit slow for a modern tank. Anyway, just curious if you have any thoughts on this one.
Thanks again for all the help, and I'll let you know if I come across any fixes that work on the switch position issue on startup.
Jerry
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And the loss of all those PWM cables would be nice in the panther, but the modules are pricey (more than the radio), but perhaps there will be a sale?
You must have got a good deal on your 9x since you can get an XJT for about $38. That doesn't include a receiver but you have to get a receiver anyway, plus you save an extra ten bucks by avoiding the PWM/PPM device.
I'm currently putting my second Hooben T55A together, this time with the metal gearboxes, and wondering if the 5 amp sabertooth would be okay in this one?
I don't have personal experience with that model so I could only hazard a guess. Erratic driving with a TK22 may not have had anything to do with current draw, it could have been any number of things. People are probably getting tired of hearing me say it, but there is only one way to know what ESC rating you need - measure the current draw on your model. I use a Watts Up meter (https://www.amazon.com/RC-Electronics-Inc-Watts-Analyzer/dp/B001B6N2WK), Hobby King has a slightly cheaper one here (https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-hk-010-wattmeter-voltage-analyzer.html) that is just as good, there are generic knock-offs on eBay and Amazon for less than $15, and many people already have a general purpose multimeter in their toolbox that will measure current just as well, though maybe not so conveniently because they don't come with hobby connectors. Even the cheapo 5 dollar Harbor Freight multimeter will measure up to 10 amps. Or if you are using a telemetry-capable radio system like the FrSky module on your 9x, or those with the inexpensive FlySky transmitters, you can get a small current sensor that will attach to your receiver and relay real-time current data right to the screen on your transmitter.
This will tell you exactly where you stand. In my experience most models draw far less current than we might imagine. Maybe you will find that your T55 draws less than 5A most of the time, with a spike to 8 amps if the track gets stalled. In that case the Sabertooth 2x5 is more than adequate (it can handle peaks to 10A). Or maybe you find that it runs at 7 amps continuous in a straight line on flat ground. Ok then, you need something bigger. But at least you know, and you're not making a wild guess.
If I had to make a wild guess I'd say the 2x5 is plenty for most applications. But better to know for sure.
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Hi Luke,
I hooked my Fluke in series with one motor on the bench and at light load (just tracks running) its almost an amp, moderate load is 3 amps, and locked rotor roughly 9.5 amps. So the 2 x 5 will work I think, but I am sure glad I got the 2 x 12 for the panther since it has the larger motors, tracks, and is much heavier. I guess it wouldn’t hurt to fuse the motors to save the controller if a track gets stuck since locked rotor is so close to max peak capacity.
Jerry
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Belay my last. Apparently the sabertooth is self protected from overcurrent which explains why they cost what they do besides all the control options. Very nice kit.
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Good analysis, I agree in this case the 2x5 will be plenty adequate. In the event of a stuck track I would be more concerned about protecting your expensive drivetrain than the controller, which as you say will take care of itself. But in this case since your stall current is close to the Sabertooth shutoff that works out to be fairly good protection right there.
Thanks for making the measurement and posting it, that will be good info for others. It aligns with the measurements I have made of a handful of models, 5 amps is usually just adequate for metal-tracked models in normal conditions but sometimes just a bit shy of what might be preferable. It's a shame the 2x12 is so expensive and worse, so massive. For that reason I prefer the Pololu Qik 2s12v10 or the Scout if the Sabertooth 2x5 is not enough. A controller in the 10 amp range is about the sweet spot for heavy 1/16th models, but most including your Hooben will be fine with 5 amps unless you plan to pull a sled through mud.
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Hi Luke,
Rather than open a new topic, I thought I'd just tag it onto this one since its relevant. When out driving the Panther today, I noticed an anomaly:
When driving along and shooting the cannon on the move with the airsoft off via the transmitter switch, and then stopping, switching the airsoft on and shooting; the recoil is no longer coordinated with the cannon sound and pellet expulsion, but instead it recoils instantaneously with the hitting of the cannon switch. And it will continue like this until I switch off the airsoft, and fire the cannon. Then all is back to normal when I turn on the airsoft switch with the recoil, pellet, and noise all synchronous.
It seems like a small coordination in the firmware? perhaps?
Anyway, just thought I'd pass it along so you can add it to your already way too long to do list...glad to be of service 8^).
jerry
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Hi Jerry, you can try this test version of firmware, I sort of doubt it will solve your problem and I haven't had time to test it, but it does fix a very minor bug related to the track recoil.
If it doesn't then I will have to try to re-produce the issue on my end which I can do later when I have more time. I do not think it is likely that driving around is actually the thing causing the issue.
Are you using the airsoft enable/disable functions, or the airsoft toggle function? (Typically that is the difference between a 2-position and 3-position switch respectively). Whichever one you are using, you might try swapping for the other function(s) to see if that changes anything.
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Hi Luke,
Okay, now I'm totally confused!! Lets see if I can remember exactly what I actually did:
1) I loaded the hex file you sent, thank you for that (I think?).
2) I loaded the saved Panther configuration file. Just to be sure. (got a note that 2 settings were deleted and need to resave a new file?)
3) Tested the tank, and now the sound won't turn off....If I attempt to turn it off then the smoker quits, tank won't drive, etc. but the sound remains...cannon works, even airsoft, idle sounds still on. Hmmm......
4) So I tried to go back to the standard firmware flash, and reflashed it.
5) Pulled up the config file, and it repeats the 2 settings deleted, etc.)
6) Sounds still won't turn off. Checked the functions, and it still looks okay, lower left is toggle on/off.....??
7) recoil/pellet/sound coordination is still off after running and firing in IR mode.
I'm going to recharge the LiPo, just in case (did it recently but just in case) and repeat. Jerry
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Hi Luke,
Tried a differnt LiPo, no joy
So then I re-calibrated the radio, thinking that would maybe be why it won't turn off the idle sound. Nothing
So, with the tank started then shut off via transmitter, verified by smoker starting then stopping, I unplugged the lead to the Taigen sound card, and the sound stopped. I plugged it back in and it stayed off. Curious.
So I swapped with a known good Taigen sound card, and no change.
I'll try and go back a change or two in the hex files to see if that helps.
Jerry
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It sounds like you have multiple things going on and it's not all entirely clear to me. Let us focus on a single issue at a time and ignore the others until one is resolved, and then move on to the next.
There should be never be a message about settings being "deleted." However if you import an OPZ file from an earlier version of OP Config into a later version of OP Config, your OPZ file may not have certain new settings that have been added since. OP Config may tell you that "not all settings were imported" which is fine, it just means your OPZ file doesn't know about the new settings. In this case you need to import your OPZ file to load all your old settings, then save back over the file you just imported. Now the new settings will be added to the file and you shouldn't see that message again.
Earlier we were working on a lack of synchronization between the airsoft and other effects, but which only happened after driving around. I don't doubt something is going on but I am skeptical that driving around is really the cause, so I was wondering if you could pinpoint the minimum state of things that might reproduce the issue, ie, just turn your tank on maybe with your airsoft on/off switch in different positions and see if the synchronization is missing right from the start, or see if changing the functions from on/off to toggle makes a difference, etc...
I won't have time this weekend to work on anything but maybe next week I can get back to it.
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With regards to the Taigen sound card not turning off - there was indeed a bug which I was able to identify in relatively short order, since it was just introduced a few weeks ago when changes were made to the sound code for adjustments to the TBS Mini. It is very common when a change is made in one place that it has unintended consequences in another, and this was one of those times.
I've posted a TCB firmware update (0.93.03) that corrects the Taigen issue. It also includes my "fix" that I posted for you in the test version a few days ago, I actually don't think that "fix" makes any difference to anything and apparently it didn't since you are still having issues with your airsoft. But regardless you can ignore the test version from here on out.
I will delve further into the airsoft thing later when I have some more time.
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Hi Luke,
Thank you for the sound fix, I thought I was going nuts!!......Anyways, I'm sorry if it has taken you away from other, more important matters than our toys!!
Here is a run down on trying to identify the steps that take the tank to an non-coordinated sound/track recoil/pellet expulsion in an airsoft unit:
Okay, sequence of events:
Trial 1
Presets: Airsoft 2 pos. sw. in off position.
Radio on
Tank turned on from cold via battery switch
Started via transmitter switch (lower left of left joystick go to 100%)
Cycle airsoft switch to clear any presets (it will fire in airsoft mode initially if not cycled)
Shoot cannon in IR mode (airsoft sw. off) Results: recoil/sound in coordination.
Move Airsoft sw. to Airsoft mode. Shoot. Results: recoil/sound/pellet expulsion in coordination.
Move Airsoft sw. to IR mode.
Drive tank straight ahead, and fire cannon on the move. No recoil, of course, and cannon noise happens as expected.
Stop tank.
Move Airsoft sw. to Airsoft mode.
Shoot cannon. Results: recoil happens initially like in IR mode, Airsoft motor winds up and shoots pellet. Sound occurs as pellet expels. i.e. not coordinated.
Trial 2
Presets: Airsoft sw. in on position
Radio turned on.
Tank turned on from cold via battery switch
Started via transmitter switch (lower left of left joystick go to 100%)
Shoot cannon in Airsoft mode. Results: recoil/sound in coordination.
Move Airsoft sw. to IR mode. Shoot. Results: recoil/sound/pellet expulsion in coordination.
Drive tank straight ahead, and fire cannon. No recoil, of course, and cannon noise happens as expected.
Stop tank.
Move Airsoft sw. to Airsoft mode.
Shoot cannon. Results: recoil happens initially like in IR mode, Airsoft motor winds up and shoots pellet. Sound occurs as pellet expels. i.e. not coordinated
Conclusion: doesn't matter which position the airsoft switch is in initially on startup.
Trial 3
Presets: Airsoft sw. off
Tank turned on from cold via battery switch
Radio turned on (reverse of trials 1 & 2)
Repeat above two trials: Results: no change
Conclusions: Radio/battery switch sequence not an issue.
Trial 4
Presets: Airsoft sw. off
Radio then tank batt sw. turned on.
Start tank via transmitter
Cycle airsoft sw.
Drive tank, shoot cannon while in motion, wait for flasher to cycle, stop tank.
Switch to airsoft mode, shoot cannon. Results: non coordinated
Switch to IR mode, shoot cannon. Results: Sound/Track recoil coordinated.
Switch to airsoft mode, shoot cannon. Results: It is now coordinated.
Conclusion: Switching back to IR mode and shooting cannon seems to reset the airsoft cycle where the track recoil happens with pellet and sound i.e. the airsoft switch.
No rush on this!! get the important stuff done.....I really understand, (been there.....)
Thanks again, I really appreciate your efforts!!
Jerry
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Hi Luke, again,
So I loaded up your latest firmware, and it indeed fixed the sound issue. Unfortunately, the coordination of the sound/pellet/track recoil is now gone, totally? Ha!! how about that? Best laid plans and all that. Back to square one?
Try it on yours, and confirm it? I may have a bad airsoft limit switch (they do go bad I understand), but it still stops the sound and airsoft motor right after the pellet goes, so I'm doubting it.
Thanks again, chat with you soon.
Jerry
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Hi Luke,
I would like to modify my statement of the recoil on airsoft coordination being totally gone.
If I have the airsoft switch off, and turn the radio then battery switch on and fire the cannon, the track recoil is coordinated.
I then turn on the airsoft switch, and it is still coordinated.
I then turn off the airsoft and fire....IR mode, okay.
I then turn on the airsoft switch, and bingo, non coordinated.
I then did the same sequence, starting the tank after the battery switch is turned on, and same results..
I don't know if this helps your troubleshooting or not, but I thought it might.
jerry
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Thanks Jerry, your last description will indeed help and I think you have now boiled it down to essence of the problem. This will save me time because now I know exactly where to look, so thank you. It does seem as if driving really has nothing to do with it, but rather that after toggling the airsoft off the first time, afterwards it will not go back on again correctly.
I'm confident I can fix this when I have some time to sit down and focus and get into "programming" mode, but I might not get an opportunity for another week yet. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again for your troubleshooting help.
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Hi Jerry, finally had a bit of time and tracked down this bug. As usual, it was introduced as a side-effect to a recent change somewhere else. It should be fixed now, I've posted a new TCB firmware release that you will need to flash (0.93.04). It won't erase any of your settings nor do you need to update OP Config.
Let me know if you have any more issues.
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Hi Luke,
Thank you so much!! Its all back to normal now (still have to cycle the A/S sw. on start, but hey.....its great now).
Jerry
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Not sure why you have to toggle the switch, that is not a behavior I can replicate on my end. All channels are read on startup and any function assigned with the position of those channels is executed, if you have a switch set to enable airsoft in a certain position and the switch is in that position when the TCB starts, then the enable airsoft function will be called. Perhaps try turning your radio on before the TCB. Maybe could also have something to do with your PWM-PPM converter if you're still using that, though it seems unlikely.
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Actually, the switch in question is in the disabled position in startup. In the setup file, I've got position one as disabled, and position two as enabled. I always have it disabled unless I see a cat (just kidding). So the tank should start up with the airsoft disabled, which it doesn't. Is it redundant to have both positions documented? or is just saying enabled in position 2 sufficient?
jerry
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You need to have both positions specified otherwise if you only have "enabled" you will be able to enable it but never turn it off.
It doesn't matter what position your switch is in, on startup the TCB will run through every function once. If your switch is in the disabled position, it should disable the airsoft. I've just tested it on my own and it boots up to the correct state as defined by my switch position. I don't know what is going on in your case but I'm going to leave this be for now because there are other development tasks more pressing at the moment.