Open Panzer
Open Panzer Help & Info => Show and Tell => Topic started by: Dean Rauch on October 29, 2017, 07:46:30 AM
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Hello everyone, here I will post what I have going for my first tank build as well as my adventures with the TCB.
I will start by showing off my possibly unique TCB.
I ordered my TCB from HobbyKing on October 8th, 2017 as I figured de soldering some MOSFETs was not beyond me.
I received it some time later and have been playing around with the components I do have, the Saber tooth driver, my HL motors and a bunch of servos, all work well.
After reading the recent project status post warning of HobbyKings continued defects, I had a look at my board.
It seems I do not have the dreaded "23EG" chips, but instead have "GFDMR" with no obvious signs of hand soldering.
So far, when the board is powered without the transmitter, I get flashing of LEDs on the L1,L2,BRK & MG ports.
Im still new to this hardware, but I think we should not entirely give up on HK just yet!
I will include a close up picture of my board for you folks to have a look at.
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Thanks for the report Dean. This is the first account of a correctly-manufactured board that I have heard of. Hopefully it is not the last! It's sad though that I get more information from end-users than I do from Hobby King.
But wait! You haven't told us anything about your 3D printed T-35! :)
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Hopefully others will receive the board I did then!
As for this project, I recently taught myself to 3D model and bought a used 3D printer (MakerGear M2 Rev.D)
I have had a HL Pz III collecting dust for a number of years, and decided that the coolest thing I could make with the printer was another tank.
Researching the subject, I found some interesting projects. Seeing the Spyker Workshop Scorpion tank being fully 3d printed and sold, I figured it wasn't impossible.
Admittedly the choice of the T-35 tank is due to War Thunder's influence, as it is a real monster in the game ;D coupled with the fact that it is all boxes and cylinders, good for a beginner in modeling. Thankfully due to my advanced control needs (with 5 turrets, cant have just ONE move!) I found the Open Panzer project.
Using the files from the game as reference, I was able to create a full solid model over the course of several weeks.
I am now in the progress of converting the one model into many printable and easily assembled pieces.
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The T-35 is a fascinating choice. What a long "wheelbase!" I bet that thing has a wide turning radius. And I can definitely see you using 16 channels of control! In fact it's not hard to get close to needing 16 channels even on a conventional tank, when some channels are being used not directly for control but to modify operational parameters.
I have loosely followed the development of 3D printers over the past few years. I believe they will ultimately be revolutionary for the RC tank hobby. Unlike other areas of RC we are very limited in the models we can purchase so there is a great demand for new designs, and tanks lend themselves very well to 3D printing as you point out. My hesitation with them thus far has been the surface finish of parts being rough but high end machines can create very nice results and no doubt eventually the same will be true of consumer-grade printers. I'll be interested to see how your parts turn out.
Keep us posted on your project. I'm sure many people will be interested to follow your progress.
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Hi Dean, Great project! I love this thing in Warthunder.. its a beast.
Any chance on sharing the STL or even the STEP files with us?
I'm quite good at 3D designing and we use Solid Edge here at work. Maybe i could work out some frame details in metal (lasercutting) for it.
I am also in possesion of my own Lathe, so turning the running wheels would be an option!
Cheers, John
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Hello Johnny, Thanks for your interest!
I plan on posting the entire build on Thingiverse or something similar once I finish the project, so if anyone else is crazy enough, they can try this too!
As for the metal parts, it would be awesome and much stronger, but I currently plan on printing the hull in 3 pieces, even with a 203 x 254 mm print bed.
I can send the files for the wheels and the hull as they are now though if you would like to experiment.
Note that STEP or STL cannot be attached here.
Luke, You are right about the wheelbase, it is a bit longer than the Maus, (unless you count the "Keg" on the Maus's back) turning should be interesting.
As to the surface quality, I had initially designed everything to be sanded but after seeing that Scorpion above, It seems to look good without it. It will be nothing like the ludicrously detailed models I have seen, but its good enough for me!
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Note that STEP or STL cannot be attached here.
I changed the forum settings so you should be able to post those files now.
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I can send the files for the wheels and the hull as they are now though if you would like to experiment.
Note that STEP or STL cannot be attached here.
Thanks Dean. Even the unfinished complete model would be fine. We could do some concurrent engineering on it. This thing just screams to get a lot of metal cut plating on it!
Any ideas on which tracks to use on it? Would KV-1 type work?
Cheers, John
*edit: look at http://www.jbrandenburg.de/?p=586 for someone that has created a 3D file also..
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Thanks for the link Johnny. I have had a look at that model but some things look a bit funny to me, I would rather have my own mistakes in the model :)
As for the tracks, I considered using KV tracks as was done in this (unfinished?) 1/16 RC:
This though, wouldnt do, as the T35 tracks are unique and substantially thinner than the KV ones.
After 5 days of continuous print time, I have printed all 8+ feet of track this monster needs, see the pictures.
I have also completed 3 types of wheels so far, the road wheels, the idler wheels and the drive sprockets.
I tested the tracks out with a few wheels and a drive sprocket using the HL gear boxes I have, they work well and will wear in to work smoother I believe.
Lastly, I have a working prototype of the suspension bogie I plan on using, eliminating the rotation of the real bogies and simply using the 2 arms like a Sherman.
I will also attach some files you can mess around with.
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Hi Dean, very nice.. Lot of work! If you are wondering about the model in the Youtube movie, here is the build log:
http://www.battletanksnederland.nl/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=5088
Also impressive work!
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Hello everyone!
I have not posted anything lately but I have been busy.
Mostly working on mass producing wheels and hull parts, as well as getting a TBS Mini ordered.
Today I finished printing the final hull section, and with a bit of bondo got everything thrown together!
Below are some pictures of the now rolling hull.
Next up is to finalize the idler wheel mount, print the motor sled and get the return rollers figured out (one of which can be seen in the final picture).
Wish me luck!
Dean
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I for one shall wish you luck. The model is coming along nicely and even looks like a tank, so you must know what you're doing!
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Thanks Luke, my main goal is to have something that roughly looks like a tank :P
I have mounted the motor and idler to one side, it moves! I will be posting a video when I have both sides running.
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this tank is looking most excellent. The tracks came out super!
keep up the great work 8)
-Carl
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Great work Dean, i checked the files you send and they could indeed be transformed to sheetmetal or aluminium sideplates. I will mock them up so they could be lasercut!
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Thanks guys! I have no issues with the plastic hull, it is surprisingly robust in 5mm thickness.
Would be interesting to see someone else one-up me with a metal one though :D
Also, as a result of my laziness I accidentally let the magic smoke out of my Sabertooth in an excited rush to drive the machine, so that will be delayed slightly.
On the bright side, my 0.5 W 3.4V warm white LED's I plan on using for the headlights and possible spotlight came in today! I read I have 3 watts to work with so they should be fine.
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On second thought, the spotlights make the main turret look even goofier, I dont think I can handle that.
(http://www.hobbyboss.com/Uploads/201507/559622c9c082e.jpg)
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On the bright side, my 0.5 W 3.4V warm white LED's I plan on using for the headlights and possible spotlight came in today! I read I have 3 watts to work with so they should be fine.
Actually that is 3 amps, not 3 watts, which is a little different. A 1/2 watt LED must be quite the beast, but of course you can always drive it a lower current than the maximum. I assume 3.4 volts is the forward voltage (Vf) rating of your LED, what you also want to look up is the forward current (If) and plug those two into a LED calculator (https://www.digikey.com/en/resources/conversion-calculators/conversion-calculator-led-series-resistor) using 5 volts as the supply voltage (since that is what the TCB will give you). It will spit out what resistor you need and how many watts you will pull. You can always decrease the current draw if you increase the size of the resistor.
Anyway, I actually like the looks of the spotlights in your photo, goofy yes but also cute!
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Alright, believe it or not I do have electrical theory under my belt, seems I need to use it more often!
Based on my measurements and your (very handy) link, I need a 6.66 ohm resistor.
Lowest I have is a 10, but the LED gets quite hot, (its a COB style, needs a heat sink)
Runs perfect with a 30 though!
Thanks for the help.
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Wow ok then, that really is a beast and not a typo. Total current draw I guess will be about 1/3 amp, so still well within the TCB limits.
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Gentlemen, It drives!
Got the Sabertooth in today so I kludged it together to give a test.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eusdzzvuF1bvpeHilOKZvsjw-VJel6GT/view?usp=sharing
Ignore the masking tape and the un-sanded return rollers causing the track to jump :P
Notes:
-One of my chinesium motors has massive authority over the other, need almost full trim to go straight
-Thanks to the huge track contact area, turning can stall the motors if on carpet
-Might have to look into a 3:1 Mato box to increase torque and reduce speed
Despite these notes, I am still thrilled with it :D
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Super awesome! That thing is so long it's like a train on tracks!
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Hello!
I was driving this thing around today now that I have all the axles in, and I noticed I was able to have the drive motors stutter, If I accelerated quickly and let off the stick before the higher speed was reached, the model will give bumps of acceleration slowing down, I will post a video of this behavior later, perhaps my motors are drawing more than 5 amps.
I have also added a tiny computer fan into the actual fan of the t35, works great and I plan on wiring it to the AUX output. Is there a way to tie the value of the AUX voltage to the throttle to simulate the fan spinning faster with engine demand? not critical but I think it would be neat.
Also have some progress pics and showing off the smoke unit:
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You're using the Sabertooth, right? You might check to make sure your battery is charged, I have experienced the Sabertooth glitching when the battery gets low. I highly doubt you are drawing more than 5 amps.
Otherwise post your OPZ file and let me know what version of firmware you're using, and I will see if I can replicate the problem on my end.
That is an interesting idea to slave the Aux to engine speed, I will consider that. What you could do that might be just as easy is to run your fan from the Smoker output instead, which is already slaved to engine speed. The Smoker output could easily handle both a typical HengLong/Taigen smoker and a second fan wired in parallel.
If you have a computer radio you can also mix whatever channel you have assigned to the Aux output to your throttle channel, that would accomplish the same thing without involving the TCB.
But I'll think about this idea and it may be I can add that feature to the TCB.
The model is looking good!
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Hello Luke, I am actually using a TARR smoker unit, I dont want to sap any power from its glory :D
Battery is good, its a 5000 MAH Li-po. I think I could fit 4 of those suckers in with the hull space I have.
Also yes, I am using the saber-tooth, but I suspect it could be the thickness of the wires to them being too small.
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Believe me, you won't stress the smoker output, the MOSFET on that one is rated to 35 amps - although in real world conditions it won't actually be able to deliver that much, and the JST plug is only rated to 3 amps, but still your tiny little PC fan probably only draws a few hundred milliamps.
The capacity of your battery is one thing, but even a high-capacity battery can be discharged. I'm sure you checked it but just saying it for others who come across this. Make sure your batteries are charged!
Thin wires certainly can be a legitimate concern in some situations. There is no substitute for a meter to troubleshoot current draw issues on your motors, if indeed that be the cause. We can guess all day but I have often been surprised at real-world measurements (either higher or lower than I expected). So if you think that's the problem slap a meter on one of your motors and find out for reals.
Or if you're using a radio system with telemetry many of them have current sensors available (FlySky and FrSky both do) so then you can see current draw right on your transmitter in real time. These have been invaluable in my own testing.
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Hello! I have made some progress:
All turrets are done, mounted and "wired" (it looks as bad inside as it looks good outside)
Elevation, Traverse and recoil all work on the main turret.
One side has received the side skirts.
Headlights are functional and very bright.
Pictures below!
Dean
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Model looks great.
Try re-sizing your pictures before you post, they are massive dimensionally even if they don't appear very large in terms of file size. In order for the forum to create a thumbnail for the post it has to first de-compress your JPG and given the size of yours this process creates a file far beyond the size it can handle. Your pictures are over 5,000 pixels wide, this would be excessive even for a 4k TV screen. Scale them down and they will upload fine.
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You are correct!
Thats odd, all previous posts included pictures from the same phone without changes
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Wow, Dean. You made great progress! When can we expect it on Thingiverse?
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I have also added a tiny computer fan into the actual fan of the t35, works great and I plan on wiring it to the AUX output. Is there a way to tie the value of the AUX voltage to the throttle to simulate the fan spinning faster with engine demand? not critical but I think it would be neat.
Hi Dean, I've added this feature finally, you will need to update OP Config and then flash the latest version of TCB firmware (both will be 0.92.18).
You will see three new analog (variable) triggers that can be assigned to analog functions, such as "Aux Output - Set Level." They are Throttle Command, Engine Speed and Vehicle Speed. Throttle command is essentially your throttle stick (but only active when the engine is on), engine speed is close to that but has some padding to prevent sudden sharp changes (this is essentially the signal that gets fed to the smoker and sound cards, so we want a smooth response). Both of those are active whenever the engine is on, whether the transmission is engaged or not. Vehicle speed of course requires the vehicle to be moving and will reflect the actual speed as constrained by acceleration and deceleration presets, etc... So take your pick.
One problem with this for your application however is that all three of these triggers have outputs of Zero when the vehicle is stopped or when the throttle is at rest ("idle"). Presumably you would like your fan to be blowing some minimum amount at all times rather than stopping completely. That is the way the smoker output works, because it provides the option of setting a minimum smoker speed to be maintained at "idle." But these other signals are actually literally 0 at rest so that is what will be reflected on any output to which you link them.
For that reason I reiterate that the smoker output would probably be preferable for your purposes. And I'm not sure exactly what these new triggers will be useful for, but maybe now they're there someone will think of something. In testing I just put LEDs on the Aux output and I get a dimming effect as the throttle is advanced or the vehicle begins to move. Cool I guess, and useful for visualizing what accel/decel constraints do, but not ultimately of much practical purpose.
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Johnny, I will post the files when I am done fixing the numerous mistakes I encountered while building, missing tolerances and ignored details and parts. Would not want someone else having to sand as many parts as I did!
Hello Luke!
Thanks for adding this feature, I may give it a shot.
Currently I like to have the fan and smoke unit separate, as I do not want to be burning the smoke oil all the time.
I replaced the fan motor and I now get a perfect speed at 10% output, however I can hear the board switching the voltage, its a piercing whine, which cuts through the engine noises noticeably. See below.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=19khUhRr5EvIl22muPwxcax_TGYcncZ8g
I doubt it is possible to fix this, but I figured I would let you know, because it seems you are doing your R&D with nice quiet LEDs.
My more pressing issue is the engine startup sounds on the Mini.
No matter the mode written to the sound card (auto or manual start) my engine sounds start when the boards do, and the TCB "engine" is off. Using the "toggle engine start" predictably flips this, I have drive but no sounds.
Any ideas would be appreciated!
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I replaced the fan motor and I now get a perfect speed at 10% output, however I can hear the board switching the voltage, its a piercing whine, which cuts through the engine noises noticeably. ...I doubt it is possible to fix this, but I figured I would let you know, because it seems you are doing your R&D with nice quiet LEDs.
Yes my test LEDs have indeed been very quiet! In fact it was possible at one time to have the Aux output operate at ultrasonic frequencies, the way the smoker and turret motor outputs still do. Then we added support for the Taigen sound card and I had to reconfigure one of the timer resources to generate the special pulses it requires, for reasons that are too boring to go into we used the same timer that was generating the Aux output PWM. Not really thinking about motor applications the frequency chosen at that time was quite low for convenience in the Taigen application.
Revisiting this code today I was able to increase the PWM frequency significantly while still maintaining the Taigen sound card functionality. What you have been hearing, and what your video illustrates quite effectively, is a 2 kHz PWM frequency. I have now bumped it up to 15.6 kHz. That is not quite ultrasonic (which would be >20 kHz) but I think you will find it probably eliminates all audible whine.
My more pressing issue is the engine startup sounds on the Mini. No matter the mode written to the sound card (auto or manual start) my engine sounds start when the boards do, and the TCB "engine" is off. Using the "toggle engine start" predictably flips this, I have drive but no sounds.
Thanks for bringing this to my attention, this was in fact a bug. Looking back it was found to have been introduced in August of last year, so I guess that shows you how many people are using the Benedini Mini since then... It is now corrected.
Both these changes are implemented in the new TCB firmware I have just posted (v0.92.19)
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Thanks for the quick fixes Luke! You are a machine.
I will test the firmware tomorrow!
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Hello guys, here is a quick and shaky video of the tank moving around!
https://drive.google.com/open?id=11Hktcusiao6wx30hNgDSWFQ2ZOdFXl8H
Thanks Luke for the new firmware, the fan motor is quiet enough to work with and the engine sounds are now working.
I am unable to use a 2 position switch assigned to start and stop, this still auto starts, but using the switch as a toggle command works.
Only issues now are the throttle sounds rev up to full when my stick is about 60% up, and the turret sounds are a bit patchy, but this may be a TBS issue.
Next is the machine guns and then the paint!
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I am unable to use a 2 position switch assigned to start and stop, this still auto starts, but using the switch as a toggle command works.
Yes that is normal, I should probably put a note about this somewhere in the Wiki. The Mini is unlike other sound cards in that it doesn't have an explicit on and explicit off command, it only has "engine toggle." The TCB has on/off functions but when used with the Mini they each can only do the same thing, which is call the "toggle" command on the Mini. If you set on/off to a two position switch, on boot that switch will inevitably be in one or the other position, and therefore on boot the Mini will get toggled, which causes it to turn on.
Therefore when using the Mini it makes more sense to use the TCB's toggle command as well.
Only issues now are the throttle sounds rev up to full when my stick is about 60% up, and the turret sounds are a bit patchy, but this may be a TBS issue.
This could be, or else you might also want to re-check radio setup in OP Config to make sure you have your throttle range mapped correctly.
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To clarify, I still have throttle response past 60%, just the sounds stop there.
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The only thing I can say is to check the Misc tab of Benedini's Flash program and make sure your Prop 1 settings are as shown in the Wiki (http://openpanzer.org/wiki/doku.php?id=wiki:tcb:tcbinstall:sound_benedini_v3#misc_tab), that would confirm that the Mini is aware of the full throttle range.
The other thing you can do is temporarily attach a servo to the Prop 1 output of the TCB and see if it moves across the entire throttle range. It should, and if it does then the issue is with your Mini though I can't say what it would be. Perhaps try re-flashing the Mini, and reloading the sounds and the Prop Settings file as a first step.
I watched your video and the model looks great. However impractical in real life, I would not have wanted to be the soldier that had all three turrets pointed my way!
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Thanks Luke,
Today I was re mapping some controls to try and fit a machine gun toggle in, so i have moved the engine controls to one of the turret positions.
I find I need a "Toggle AUX output at preset dim level" function as if I assign toggle aux on/off" and "Aux preset dim level" to the same trigger, the board reboots.
Is this possible?
Also I found a short USB extension online and have run it through a detachable panel, this makes programming so much easier!
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I find I need a "Toggle AUX output at preset dim level" function as if I assign toggle aux on/off" and "Aux preset dim level" to the same trigger, the board reboots.
It is entirely possible to create combinations of function triggers that will cause problems! It is too much to try to check in advance every combination for potential conflicts. But yes it is no problem to add a new function to toggle the Preset Dim level, I have added it for you in the latest release (v0.92.20 - you will have to update both OP Config and TCB firmware).
The other way to accomplish it with the existing functions would have been to assign a two-position switch with Preset Dim in one position and Off in the other position. That one would have worked, but I know it is not exactly the same thing as toggle, and toggle can be more useful when you are using 3-position switches.
Today I was re mapping some controls to try and fit a machine gun toggle in, so i have moved the engine controls to one of the turret positions.
I don't know if this will help you or not, but I have also gone ahead and added the steering channel and both turret stick channels (elevation and rotation) as variable trigger sources for analog functions (throttle channel was already added a few updates ago). This allows us to re-map or copy these channels to other outputs (RC pass-through the most logical use). Most people will not need to use these but it might come in handy in some very unusual cases.
Also I found a short USB extension online and have run it through a detachable panel, this makes programming so much easier!
I use these too! Makes things so much easier. For others reading this, you can even get them with right-angle connectors on the TCB side for tight installs (like these up/down versions (https://www.ebay.com/itm/up-down-right-angle-90-degree-micro-B-5p-USB-male-to-female-data-charge-cable/311663350980) or these left/right versions (https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-90-degree-left-right-angle-micro-USB-B-male-to-female-computer-usb-cable/172283183556?hash=item281ce0c1c4:g:SPEAAOSwBLlVPmOu)). You can also get panel mount types like this (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Right-angle-OTG-Micro-usb-B-5pin-male-to-A-female-panel-mount-Screw-Cable-25cm/381713301841?epid=1179110076).
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Hello again guys,
I was wondering how to get the cannon reloading sounds? I have noticed on some videos you can hear the brass hitting the ground and other loading noises.
Is this just a longer fire sound file being played?
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Is this just a longer fire sound file being played?
That's been my experience with any such sounds.
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Here are some current pictures of the build!
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And some of the mess inside. I will fix this when I paint...probably.
The clip on gear covers help keep the grease from flying all over the insides of the tank.
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I think I've said this already more than a few times, but it's pretty awesome! Keep up the good work. Can't wait to see it with some paint.
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The clip on gear covers help keep the grease from flying all over the insides of the tank.
Hey Dean, that seems a stock Henglong gear? Care to share the 3D file for the gear cover with us?
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Hey Dean, that seems a stock Henglong gear? Care to share the 3D file for the gear cover with us?
Actually, these gearboxes are custom reinforced ones with an extra gear reduction, the clip on covers will not fit standard HL boxes as the brass posts were moved around by the maker. Matomart support staff hooked me up with them.
I like the covers though, I will be making a set for my PZ III which I will post, it has standard boxes.
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So it begins, started brushing on the paint. The 3D printed texture helps to hide all the brush strokes! Hope to have it back in one piece soon.
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After several hours of swearing and carefull eyeballing, the prototype for my track tensioning is done.
This should help with the issue of throwing tracks while turning tightly. Id like to make this thing at least twice as reliable as the real ones were, im setting the bar low.
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Hello! I have thrown it together to begin detailing it and figuring out the stickers, The green looks much better in person than on the phone image.
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Very nice!
Shad
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Shot of the tools all printed painted and glued.
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Hello everyone!
The T-35 is finished, and its done in less than a year!
It has been detailed (with some help) to the best of my abilities and is now mechanically reliable enough for me to be satisfied with.
Please see below some shots of the finished product. More shots and videos will be posted when I gather all the files for Thingiverse.
Let me know what you think!
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It looks really great Dean! And wonderful to hear that the files will be available on Thingiverse..
Which is rather a good idea! i think i will be posting my stuff there also in the near future..
Can't wait on starting to build(printing) one myselves!
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Good job Dean. Not many people have designed and completed an entire 3D printed model, so you have joined a small club indeed. No one can say you chose an easy model to start with either!
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Hello everyone!
The files for this build have now been posted.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3064387
Better late than never they say!
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Thank you Dean! This is really great that someone shares his complete build! (any chance on getting the STEP files?)
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Thank you Dean! This is really great that someone shares his complete build! (any chance on getting the STEP files?)
Sadly not, I didn't use that file type for anything.
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No problem Dean, What 3D software did you use to design the Tank?
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Currently I like to have the fan and smoke unit separate, as I do not want to be burning the smoke oil all the time.
I know this thread is a few years old, but this comment by Dean has been rolling around in my head all this time and I've finally made some changes to the TCB to allow you to control the fan and heating element separately. This could come in useful for certain custom builds such as this one.
You can read more about the functionality in this thread: New Smoker Functionality (http://openpanzer.org/forum/index.php?topic=213)
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You Sir are a Wizard Mr Luke 8)
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Hello everyone!
The T-35 is finished, and its done in less than a year!
It has been detailed (with some help) to the best of my abilities and is now mechanically reliable enough for me to be satisfied with.
Please see below some shots of the finished product. More shots and videos will be posted when I gather all the files for Thingiverse.
Let me know what you think!
Dean, the tank is simply amazing, so much complexity and detail! Were all the parts printed on an FDM printer or were some of the fine detail done using a resin printer?
I am currently assembling the tracks and almost done printing the hull pieces. I have two Ender 5 printers so things go a little faster. Still, this will fill a big chunk of my 'Covid-19 downtime'.
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Hi Dean, I'm beginning the assembly of the road wheels on the T-35 and wondering what type and gauge of metal you used for the 'springs' for the road wheels? Does anyone know or have a suggestion? Otherwise I'll measure the slit built into the road wheel and used that for the thickness dimension, then attempt to find something with an appropriate amount of 'spring' to it.
Thanks,
Joe
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Hello Joe!
Glad to see you are making progress, I am always surprised when I see someone who decides to take on this project despite the number of parts!
All of my parts were made FDM on my makergear M2, with the exception of the tracks, done on a pair of Flashforge Dreamers.
As for the metal in the springs, I had some engineering samples of coiled spring steel at work that fit into the gap. I wouldn't want to use anything else here, it may not retain its shape. I think you could use any spring steel that will fit in there that you can get your hands on. ( maybe inside an old tape measure?)
I had to double up the springs at the rear to get the tank to balance properly so keep that in mind.
Good luck with the build!
Dean
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Hello Joe!
Glad to see you are making progress, I am always surprised when I see someone who decides to take on this project despite the number of parts!
All of my parts were made FDM on my makergear M2, with the exception of the tracks, done on a pair of Flashforge Dreamers.
As for the metal in the springs, I had some engineering samples of coiled spring steel at work that fit into the gap. I wouldn't want to use anything else here, it may not retain its shape. I think you could use any spring steel that will fit in there that you can get your hands on. ( maybe inside an old tape measure?)
I had to double up the springs at the rear to get the tank to balance properly so keep that in mind.
Good luck with the build!
Dean
Thanks Dean, I've asked that question about the metal for the springs several times, so please disregard it in my other posts. I will see what I can find.. I wonder if the old strapping steel that I remember seeing on heavy packages and crates would work? I also had the idea of measuring tape steel, but it didn't really seem sturdy enough, but maybe it was too cheap a measuring tape. I'll look at some better quality ones.
Thanks for herding me in the right direction.
Regards,
Joe
Thanks f
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Joe,
I should clarify, I dont mean the metal used in the actual numbered tape to use a spring, I mean the coil spring inside the tape measure used to retract the tape.
Thats the closest thing i can think of to what I used, any type of metal that isnt actual spring steel wont work. I know because I tried the metal strapping too :P
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In his other thread Joe mentioned the video of Dean's tank but when I went to look for it I never saw it posted anywhere. Here it is for those who are curious to see it in action!
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Joe,
I should clarify, I dont mean the metal used in the actual numbered tape to use a spring, I mean the coil spring inside the tape measure used to retract the tape.
Thats the closest thing i can think of to what I used, any type of metal that isnt actual spring steel wont work. I know because I tried the metal strapping too :P
Ah, that makes more sense! I didn't think of using the tape return spring. I'll have to look into that possibility. I also have some compression springs ordered that could be 'plan b'. I see Ilgar Ismailov, the fellow building the T-35 from your files (and casting the parts??!!) had at least one bogey on each side of his T-35 using coil springs. I'm not sure why he only did one per side, but I'll have to get the springs in my hand before I can determine their usability.
Anyway, thanks for the clarification.
Cheers,
Joe
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Hi Dean, started making your T35 about a month ago and have around 60% done. Trying to work out what gears go where at the moment and if any bearings are used lol
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Hi Dean, started making your T35 about a month ago and have around 60% done. Trying to work out what gears go where at the moment and if any bearings are used lol
Dean doesn't seem to appear much on this board lately.
I'm building the T-35 too. If you are using the Krasi50 Gearbox you will need a dozen 10 X 5 X 4 mm bearings for the 5mm shafts the gears ride on. The output shaft will require four 12 X 8 X 4 mm bearings. You'll also need 5mm rod, as stated and 8 mm tubing for the output shaft. Krasi included some printed shafts as guides to what the output shafts should look like as they are flattened to firmly mount the drive gear and the track geared wheels.
I also found that the 8mm bearings were not retained well in the gearbox case so you'll either need to cobble up some retainers or, what I did was to hack the case so that the middle wall is twice as thick where the double bearings mount back-to-back.
You should also notice that the Krasi50 gearbox has a couple of STL files that appear to make no sense for a gearbox. They are his method of mounting coil springs instead of the leafs that Dean used. Look for DaempferOben.jpg and DaempferUnten.jpg in the images section.
Good luck,
joe